newls1 Posted July 5, 2008 Report Share Posted July 5, 2008 About to install the subs, and before I do, I would like to make the connections like most of you do and use pass thru bolts. I just went and bought 8 brass 1/4thread x 1 1/2 long bolts and was hoping someone can clue me in on the wiring of it. Do I do a bolt for each V.C, meaning that do I just run a wire from one terminal to a bolt, so each sub will utilize 4 bolts? And just make my connections using eyelets on the outside of the case? If I do it this way, this will use all 8 bolts (thats why I bought or do I just wire the subs inside the box, then just use 2 bolts for the external connections? Thanks Any pics I can see of someones install Quote I love my staffie So anti FACEBOOK it isn't even funny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loganberry Posted July 5, 2008 Report Share Posted July 5, 2008 i did 2 bolts, my subs are dual 2, and i have my final load set at 2 ohms, so i just used 2 bolts instead of 8, one for pos, one for neg Quote My F-150 Build GET ON THE BANDWAGON what if they tried messing with the amps when the subs werent louder hahah jk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lance_aka_64 Posted July 5, 2008 Report Share Posted July 5, 2008 2 bolts per vc. one for pos and one for neg... so you can wire it how ever you want without having to take the subs out. Quote Need any thing chromed? Hit me up!!! gamer tag: (360) mEmEnToMoRi64 My Myspace refs: from here: RollinSoLow, Derrick824, Ray from c.a.c.o. : teamsubgopoof, splvictim20, SundownAudioNY from C.A.J. : Donpisto, spladdict19, CAJunkyard, JBLCAMRY, DasBot (robot underground) from ca.com: alxmlr789,photocrazy8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newls1 Posted July 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2008 2 bolts per vc. one for pos and one for neg... so you can wire it how ever you want without having to take the subs out. So the end result will be 8 bolts sticking out correct? Then just make little jumper wires with eyelets on the ends to jump from stud to stud? Quote I love my staffie So anti FACEBOOK it isn't even funny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmanson Posted July 5, 2008 Report Share Posted July 5, 2008 i just built two boxes for each of my DC lvl 4 15s and decided to use bolts and washers. much cheaper way if you ask me. Quote 2-DC 15XLM2 D.7s 1-DC 5K amp (1) XS Power D6500(UNDERHOOD) and (1) XS3000(REAR) 3 runs 1/0ga for power and 2 runs of 1/0ga for negative. (2)-RFT165s components, ...... 4 separate 1 inch tweetersRF T600-2(fronts) Punch 450.4(rear) Audiocontrol 3.1. DC power 260amp alternator w/MLA Module Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hotshot27 Posted July 5, 2008 Report Share Posted July 5, 2008 So the end result will be 8 bolts sticking out correct? Then just make little jumper wires with eyelets on the ends to jump from stud to stud? i would do all 8 just so you can change configutations without taking the subs out. I used for EACH terminal: in this order bolt [stick the threads towards the outside] ring terminal with speaker wire inside washer wood washer ring terminal and wire nut after it was all bolted in, I used some of that "pefect putty" and sealed the inside of the bolt area. It dried really hard and i can't feel any leaks Quote Current Setup: Factory HU with LOC mids/highs-Insignia components Sub- E8 in bass tube Amp- sae-1200d Show Setup: HU-Sony MEX-1HD (brings massive respect for sony) fronts - Infinity Kappa perfect comps rears- Infinity Kappa coax mid/high amp - Autotek 5600 Subs - 2 RE SE 15's Sub Amps - 2xSAE-1200D Box - 5cubes sealed Wire- Lots of Knu 1/0 SECOND SKIN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newls1 Posted July 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2008 good deal bro, thanks Quote I love my staffie So anti FACEBOOK it isn't even funny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChevyBoy Posted July 6, 2008 Report Share Posted July 6, 2008 i would do all 8 just so you can change configutations without taking the subs out. I used for EACH terminal:in this order bolt [stick the threads towards the outside] ring terminal with speaker wire inside washer wood washer ring terminal and wire nut after it was all bolted in, I used some of that "pefect putty" and sealed the inside of the bolt area. It dried really hard and i can't feel any leaks wrong. u need a nut on the outside of the box before the ring terminal. how would you get the wire off without the bolt turning? you cant. do what he said on the inside, but the outside do: washer, nut, ring terminal, washer, nut. you can put a washer before the ring terminal, but you dont have to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banginAltima Posted July 6, 2008 Report Share Posted July 6, 2008 wrong. u need a nut on the outside of the box before the ring terminal. how would you get the wire off without the bolt turning? you cant.do what he said on the inside, but the outside do: washer, nut, ring terminal, washer, nut. you can put a washer before the ring terminal, but you dont have to. X2 Quote If you build it, db's will come... NSPL World Record Holder Trunk 0-1800 watts---147.9 with 1722 clamped watts @ 40Hz(9-20-09). Competition Only Record Holder Trunk 0-500 watts---148.1 2006 Nissan Altima 3.5 SE Currently Rebuilding.... My 150db Plus Trunk Build I do box designs. [benH] 6:24 pm: clipping doesn't really hurt subs [benH] 6:24 pm: being an idiot is what blows subs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jack Posted July 6, 2008 Report Share Posted July 6, 2008 Quote http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=29213 "sleeper build" (1) DC AUDIO Level4XL 10 (2) PowermasterD2700 batteries ALL FOR SALE TEAM DC AUDIO TEAM DIRTFLOORPOOR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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