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My 2 Solox 10 Boxes Check Them Out


daddy_j

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still pretty good for a couple 10s" and a so-so amp

I couldnt complain at those numbers

sundown.jpg
I have a ritual called "terminator". I crouch in the shower in the "naked terminator" pose. With eyes closed I crouch for a minute and visualize either Arnie or the guy from the 2nd movie. I then start to hum the T2 theme. Slowly I rise to a standing position and open my eyes. It helps me get through my day. The only problem is if the shower curtain sticks to my terminator leg. It sorta ruins the fantasy.
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Wow man I'm sorry to hear that your having so much trouble getting to that 150 mark with those subs and amp. I'd say that your weakest link is that amp. Here is what I told another person on another forum about finding power and impedence rise:

You need a dmm and a ac current meter. You will want to clamp the negative wire going to the sub. If you have more than one negative wire going to a sub then clamp both. You will take the dmm and set it to voltage and probe the positive and negative speaker leads with the leads from the dmm. Next play your burp freq and measure the ac current and ac voltage at the same time. There's two different ways to determine power and one is rms and the other is peak. For peak you can just set the peak hold function on the meters and for rms you will have to wait 3 seconds into the burp and press the hold yourself unless you have a true rms meter. Now once you have the figures for current and voltage you will take the voltage and divide by the current. That number will tell you the impedence your amp is playing at. You can then take that number and subtract you nominal impedence to find out what the rise is, but the acutal impedence that the amp is seeing is found after you divide the voltage by the current. Also to find the power that you're making all you need to do is multiply the voltage by current and that is the power the amp is making. Any questions?

I hope this actually tells you if the amp is even putting out the kind of power that you need. It may and I honestly don't know why you aren't putting up numbers. Do like I suggested in another post in this topic and do 45 degree corners in every corner out of fiberglass resin and also coat the entire inside and outside with resin. That should help you gain as much as 1.5 db's.

2013 VW Jetta GLI 2.0 Turbo

1 Sundown Audio SCV2000

1 Sundown Audio X15 V2

1 XS Power D3100

Audio Control LC6i

Stock Deck

146.4 sealed on the dash at 37hz

2001 Focus ZX3: RETIRED

Team Sundown Audio, Team XS Power, 2 time NSPL Car 3601-Up Champion, 2 time NSPL Car Hardcore Champion
Highest NSPL Scores to date:
154.3db on the dash sealed at 46hz, 156.2db in the kick at 46hz
155.2db unofficial on dash at 43hz

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why is every1 talking bad about the SS 10,000D? It is stronger than the SS6500 and those amps are putting up real good numbers. Ive seen a 6500 put up 156dbs. yes it was at 18 volts, but it still puts out gods of power at 14volts. there arent many amps better than the SS10,000 out there. Im not saying there are none, just saying there arent many. I know of the DD amps and the stenson amps, but it is putting out +5000watts.

so should I take out all the pannels in the back of the crx

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I'm trying not to talk bad about your amp cause I don't want to upset you. But I would bet that if you do a power test you aren't even making 4000 watts with that amp and that is why your scores are so poor. I'm doing a better number in my car off of 2 Sundown 1500D's and my score is on the dash sealed, not in the kick with the door open. Not to mention that I have a Focus ZX3 and not a CRX. The rex is going to be way louder. There is just something that isn't adding up and I say that its the amp. I bet that you would pull a better score off of even a Rockford T4K. Check into an amp first, but I still say you should see a larger number even with the one you have.

2013 VW Jetta GLI 2.0 Turbo

1 Sundown Audio SCV2000

1 Sundown Audio X15 V2

1 XS Power D3100

Audio Control LC6i

Stock Deck

146.4 sealed on the dash at 37hz

2001 Focus ZX3: RETIRED

Team Sundown Audio, Team XS Power, 2 time NSPL Car 3601-Up Champion, 2 time NSPL Car Hardcore Champion
Highest NSPL Scores to date:
154.3db on the dash sealed at 46hz, 156.2db in the kick at 46hz
155.2db unofficial on dash at 43hz

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I dont get offended when someone talks negatively about what I own. The reason I got the amp was because I got a really good deal on it. I paid $700 for a "5300watts at 13.8v" (after alot of resaerch) amp. I might one day go to +16volts so that amp is pretty darn good. The SS10000 was tested against a T4K, and the T4k wasnt even in the same league. It is closer compaired to the lanzar opti6000 which does its reated power. But anyways, it might be my voltage, the box needing to be resined, the 12 gauge speaker wire, or the fact that I have a 30amp alternator. Who knows, I'll try and find out what it is. Process of ellimination. Next, Im gonna try hooking up my speakers in my car, using my buddies amp (6500), his batteries, and his head unit. Im just gonna run a speaker wire from my car to his amp. JUst to see if there is something wrong in my car. Then I'll meter it. He is hitting 149dbs in the trunk of a mustang. So we shall see. Keep the comments coming. I dont get offened. Thanks everyone and especially you nightshades for the box info. Can you explain how to order the aero ports, does the 15" piece come with the flared ends? or do I need to order 2 per port? or 2 total?

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Got a friend with some 16v batts? Those amps make nowhere near what they are capable of at 14v.....16-18v charging system is your best bet a 300amp alt..

Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4

Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2"

Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd

Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400

Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v

Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube)

Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod

Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors)

Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded

Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex

My YouTube Videos

My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build

My "Seamless" Looking Box Build

My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk

My feedback/references...

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an aeroport should make a decent difference over plain pvc, i've ordered mine here, (not sure what diameter pvc you have, but here is the link for 4'')

4" Aeroport

Orion 2500D, Jbl Gto 75.4

Team Wolfpack Audio FSQ 15" d2, mb quart xover, tweets peerless 6.5 mids

Alpine cda-105

optima up front Knu klm 1/0

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I said I will go 16 volts one day. But anytime soon. IM broke. One question, if I buy the "Precision Port 4" Flared Port Tube Kit" and only need 2 ports 4" diameter X 7" long, do I need to only buy that kit and two more flares, or do I need to buy that kit and 4 flares?

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an aeroport should make a decent difference over plain pvc, i've ordered mine here, (not sure what diameter pvc you have, but here is the link for 4'')

4" Aeroport

Use the link here that Chris already put up. Those are exactly what you want. Those are what I'm using in my car too.

2013 VW Jetta GLI 2.0 Turbo

1 Sundown Audio SCV2000

1 Sundown Audio X15 V2

1 XS Power D3100

Audio Control LC6i

Stock Deck

146.4 sealed on the dash at 37hz

2001 Focus ZX3: RETIRED

Team Sundown Audio, Team XS Power, 2 time NSPL Car 3601-Up Champion, 2 time NSPL Car Hardcore Champion
Highest NSPL Scores to date:
154.3db on the dash sealed at 46hz, 156.2db in the kick at 46hz
155.2db unofficial on dash at 43hz

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