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Why More Batteries Won't Stop Your Lights Dimming...


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Ok I've seen quite a few posts recently about people with dimming lights and the suggestion is often to get a bigger/better/more batteries.

This is _wrong_ 90% of the time!

The brightness of your headlights is primarily caused by how much VOLTAGE they are getting.

When the vehicle is on, in almost all vehicles (some modern cars do some funny stuff with the alt but the headlights should stop it anyway) the electrical system has ~14.4v available to it.

When you turn it off, it will drop to a maximum of ~13.8v but most likely something lower, around 12.8v - the float voltage of your battery.

Then you look at the capacity of your alternator. It's probably (if it's stock) somewhere between 60 and ~100A.

This means that it can supply that many amps of current at 14.4v. If you exceed that amount of current, the alt's voltage output drops way off.

As soon as this happens, you start drawing power from your batteries. Batteries cannot create 14.4v!! The chemical reaction of a normal lead-acid battery has a forwards voltage of about 12.2v.

The battery, depending on its size, can provide a HUGE amount of current without dropping much voltage. If it's like 800CCA it can probably push 500A at 12v for short bursts (i.e. bass hits)

So you get your first ~60A (maybe 600w worth of sound) at 14.4v

Then you get your next 500A - 5kw! - at 12.2v

Then you get into serious shit, voltage will drop like crazy, you risk the car stalling out or damage to the battery...

When the voltage drops from 14.4v to 12.2v you're losing about 15% of the wattage from your headlights - that's quite a bit! To see the difference, just look at your headlights with the car on and the car off.

Extra proof of this - ever had your headlights dim with the engine turned off? Probably not, they were already at the 'dim' level of 12.2v which has a nice big battery to support it.

My point is that you could have 1000000 D3100's in your car but as soon as you exceeded the alternator's output the headlights would still dim :)

Moral of the story, the only way to stop your headlights dimming is up-spec the alternator or turn down the volume.... http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/public/style_emoticons/default/01nocomment8so.gif http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/public/style_emoticons/default/hairtrick.gif http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/public/style_emoticons/default/hairtrick.gif http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/public/style_emoticons/default/hairtrick.gif

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10.x volts fo' life!

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Yep, this man speaks the truth!

by the way isn't the nominal voltage of a capacitor higher than 12v?

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Big 3 upgrade helps to , no?

* Eclipse CD3200 with PAC SWI-CAN2 and SW-ECL2 Steering Wheel Controls Interface
* Pioneer D-Series Mids and Highs ( Fronts: TS-D1702C; Rears; TS-D1702R and Dash; TS-D1002R )
* Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 ( Mids and Highs Amp )
* DC 3.5k with Dual Inputs; Custom Plexiglass Backing ( Sub Amp )
* Rockford Fosgate Balanced Line Driver

* One FULLY LOADED ~ 10" DC m2 XL
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* Five Exide Orbital ORB34M Marine 12 Volt Batteries
* PowerMaster XS D3100 12 Volt Battery

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Running a nice 4ga wire or so over to your main relay/power distro block from the battery helps a little bit, along with changing out the headlight grounds on older cars/trucks.... But it does all come down to the alt. amps in the end..

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Big 3 upgrade helps to , no?

Yes you are correct, however like he said, once the max output of the alt has been exceeded, your battery will be hurtin ;)

By the way, nice post Boon :)

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Ok I've seen quite a few posts recently about people with dimming lights and the suggestion is often to get a bigger/better/more batteries.

This is _wrong_ 90% of the time!

The brightness of your headlights is primarily caused by how much VOLTAGE they are getting.

When the vehicle is on, in almost all vehicles (some modern cars do some funny stuff with the alt but the headlights should stop it anyway) the electrical system has ~14.4v available to it.

When you turn it off, it will drop to a maximum of ~13.8v but most likely something lower, around 12.8v - the float voltage of your battery.

Then you look at the capacity of your alternator. It's probably (if it's stock) somewhere between 60 and ~100A.

This means that it can supply that many amps of current at 14.4v. If you exceed that amount of current, the alt's voltage output drops way off.

As soon as this happens, you start drawing power from your batteries. Batteries cannot create 14.4v!! The chemical reaction of a normal lead-acid battery has a forwards voltage of about 12.2v.

The battery, depending on its size, can provide a HUGE amount of current without dropping much voltage. If it's like 800CCA it can probably push 500A at 12v for short bursts (i.e. bass hits)

So you get your first ~60A (maybe 600w worth of sound) at 14.4v

Then you get your next 500A - 5kw! - at 12.2v

Then you get into serious shit, voltage will drop like crazy, you risk the car stalling out or damage to the battery...

When the voltage drops from 14.4v to 12.2v you're losing about 15% of the wattage from your headlights - that's quite a bit! To see the difference, just look at your headlights with the car on and the car off.

Extra proof of this - ever had your headlights dim with the engine turned off? Probably not, they were already at the 'dim' level of 12.2v which has a nice big battery to support it.

My point is that you could have 1000000 D3100's in your car but as soon as you exceeded the alternator's output the headlights would still dim :)

Moral of the story, the only way to stop your headlights dimming is up-spec the alternator or turn down the volume.... http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/public/style_emoticons/default/01nocomment8so.gif http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/public/style_emoticons/default/hairtrick.gif http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/public/style_emoticons/default/hairtrick.gif http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/public/style_emoticons/default/hairtrick.gif

Yes you're correct! That's why it bad to play loud high level volume stereo everyday. Adding more and more batttery create a heavy charging load on your altenator and put stress capacity load on your vehicle struts/shock. Smaller vehicle isn't good for this heavy duty bass. Get a bigger vehicle like truck, SUV, and etc. Thank for sharing that information because peoples need to do they research and understand the type of battery, voltage, drop, light dimming, fail alternator, and etc. Doing that will help them avoid over spending hard earn money.

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this is not true all of the time thoug. i am 100% certain when i am at full tilt i am way past the limit of my alternator which is only 130 amps. i added 2 extra batteries for a total of 3 and my headlights stopped dimming right away.

----reference's----

meade916

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this is not true all of the time thoug. i am 100% certain when i am at full tilt i am way past the limit of my alternator which is only 130 amps. i added 2 extra batteries for a total of 3 and my headlights stopped dimming right away.

maybe your amps dont pull that much ampragae tahts why when you added those batteries it stopped.
That's why they don't deliver.

Yer ass better go sit along the side of the road and wait.

You can't expect them to travel up some dirt road in a hick / back woods town. Thats how horror movies start :D

I explain things very simply and use analogies in terms of Pickles, and grape drink, pool noodles and jackhammers...if you can't put 2 and 2 together there man, There simply is not much more I can do.

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