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Posted
This is proable a newb question but is there anyway to tell if a subs been clipped by looking at it? If so what do you look for a mabey a picture would be nice

to help answer YOUR question, lol, there isnt really a way to tell. clipping can cause a sub to fail but if it hasnt failed then it should be fine. use a DMM and test that the coils still read what they should. push the cone up and look at the coil to make sure it doesnt look black. thats about all you can do.

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

Posted
Any certain way to convince her to turn them down without me pulling a :ph34r:

I would just pull a :ph34r: and get it over with.

Then I would try and get her educated before she finds out.

Have her read the pinned sections in the amplifier section of the forum.

heck I have minor info on setting up amps on page 2 of the topic about finding out how much power your makeing that might help her understand.

Isobaric - Refers to the practice of coupling two drivers together to make them act as one.

"Giving up doesn't always mean you are weak; sometimes it means that you are strong enough to let go."

Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results.

The Destruction of a person builds character.

 

Terryswork001.png

Posted
I would just pull a :ph34r: and get it over with.

Then I would try and get her educated before she finds out.

Have her read the pinned sections in the amplifier section of the forum.

heck I have minor info on setting up amps on page 2 of the topic about finding out how much power your makeing that might help her understand.

Eh, maybe I will just go :ph34r: on her. She gets pissed cause her b/f is the one who set all that for her. No I'm not her dude.

But I'll try anyways with her reading up.

Derp.

Posted
Eh, maybe I will just go :ph34r: on her. She gets pissed cause her b/f is the one who set all that for her. No I'm not her dude.

But I'll try anyways with her reading up.

Tell her if she wants to own the equipment it would help if she learned how to use it and adjust it herself.

or tell her it will save her money in the long run.

Sorry for thread jacking too.

Isobaric - Refers to the practice of coupling two drivers together to make them act as one.

"Giving up doesn't always mean you are weak; sometimes it means that you are strong enough to let go."

Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results.

The Destruction of a person builds character.

 

Terryswork001.png

Posted

basically every amp company should make this an option

but they dont

why tho...?

maybe they can get more repairs in the long run then

maybe it costs more than a bass boost knob (lulz)

either way there are 3-4 companies that use remote/level/input sensitivity knos.... yet SOOOOO many rack amps for pro audio have clip lights

maybe amp companies will catch on that users are getting smarter, and if i blinking red light prevents more speaker damage then if there was no red light, then they should use it

oscope - $180

avg recone - $150

fried amp - $150

remote gain knob with clipping light - priceless

TeamSundown-sig.jpg

Posted
SOOOOO many rack amps for pro audio have clip lights

Pro audio drivers cost $$$$$$ and people get pissed when they blow up.

Car audio is cheap, and people 'expect' it to blow...

goodgrammarbc7.gif

10.x volts fo' life!

Posted
Pro audio drivers cost $$$$$$ and people get pissed when they blow up.

Car audio is cheap, and people 'expect' it to blow...

Darn tootin'. You blow it, you buy it, and a carton of piss to say sorry.

Cheers,

Mick

Work;
DiGiCo D1 Live / MIDAS Heratige 1000 / MIDAS Venice
Meyer Sound CQ-1's, CQ-2's, PSW-2's
RAMSA Monitor Amplifiers
P.Audio Monitors
BSS OMNIDRIVE and Soundweb
DBX 231 and Klark Teknik DN360 EQ's
RCF TT22A
RCF ART320

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