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This is starting to scare me a little bit......Voltage Q


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thats what i was thinking.

that is a voltage GAUGE and it is adjustable.

it has a little knob under the case which can either raise or lower the sensitivity

Exactly what I was thinking. I was just wondering if he calibrated it with a more accurate meter such as a fluke. Or a good cheap way to test it is to but a brand new 9v battery and hook it up to the meter and see if it reads it correctly.

I know out of the box some meters read +/- .5v

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Exactly what I was thinking. I was just wondering if he calibrated it with a more accurate meter such as a fluke. Or a good cheap way to test it is to but a brand new 9v battery and hook it up to the meter and see if it reads it correctly.

I know out of the box some meters read +/- .5v

my stinger voltage gauge kept turning it self up when the bass hit.

it happened very slow, throughout a week the voltage would go up from 14 to 15 volts.

so i had to set it with my DMM and then epoxy the little knob so it couldn't turn anymore

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my stinger voltage gauge kept turning it self up when the bass hit.

it happened very slow, throughout a week the voltage would go up from 14 to 15 volts.

so i had to set it with my DMM and then epoxy the little knob so it couldn't turn anymore

Very good info.

I would suggest doing this.

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Seth doesnt have any Bass at the moment so i double the bass turned his up, but i would as stated check the voltage with a reliable multimeter

Ive seen 2 diff voltages from 2 flukes even so its better safe then sorry

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i have seen as high as 16.4v on a cold start up and sometimes i stay above 16v for a while. as the engine warms up it does drop but stays in the mid to high 15's.. i have a yellow top and two hc800's and have not had any issues yet. but deff check to make sure your stinger meter is set properly.

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mines been 15.6-15.7 and settles out to 15.1-15.3 i have the same batteries as you and can vouch that ive only had problems charging them at 15.6+ with a ten amp manual charger, this will make the start to boil. I think the "float" charge of the alternators is ok.

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thats what i was thinking.

that is a voltage GAUGE and it is adjustable.

it has a little knob under the case which can either raise or lower the sensitivity

thanks guys, however i'm no n00b. It was set with a fluke dmm months ago, and is still dead on balls accurate.

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my stinger meter is as accurate as rounding to the tenth can be

idle is 14.06 on dmm... meter says 14.1

disconnect ur batts til you start using ur amps... should be fine once they staqrt getting drained

whats ur batts resting voltage after a day with the car off?

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my stinger meter is as accurate as rounding to the tenth can be

idle is 14.06 on dmm... meter says 14.1

disconnect ur batts til you start using ur amps... should be fine once they staqrt getting drained

whats ur batts resting voltage after a day with the car off?

with all batts together, and after the truck has sat for a day, resting voltage is 12.7/12.8

**EDIT** I cant disconnect the rear batts, as my 4 channel amps are powered from them. I talked to Sir ROB, and i'm just going to disconnect the MLA till this crazy ass cold is out of here.

Edited by newls1

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