Jump to content

Do I need neg. run of 1/0


Recommended Posts

its basically preferance, ive seen and heard people say its the best, others say its fine not to

just weather or not you want to, he ALREADY has the wire he said, if you already have wire to do so then hell, go for it

Team Sundown Audio

**CURRENT** -- 2012 Scion tC Build Click Here

**OLD** -- 2002 Pontiac Grand AM Build Click Here
check them out, slap me a comment

2002 Pontiac Grand AM SE 2.2l 4 cylinder ecotec.
-------------------------------------------------------------------

Head Unit - Alpine CDA-9887
Subs - 2x Z 12 v.2s - v.3 + NS Soft parts
Amplifier - Sundown Audio SAZ-3500D
Enclosure - 3.33 Cubes tuned to 34.66hz
Front Stage - JBL P660c 6.5" Components
Rear Deck - Powerbass 4xl 6.5" Mid-Range
Front Stage Amplifier - Sundown Audio SAX-100.4D
Wires - Kicker Hyperflex 1/0, KnuKonceptz 1/0, Knu 4 and 8 Gauge, Kicker RCAs
Electrical - 275 AMP DC Power H/O Alternator, XS Power S3400, XS Power D2700
Videos - http://www.youtube.com/user/BeAILsTaR13
-------------------------------------------------------------------

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I already have the wire just wanted to know if it was worth doing. I got a hella good deal a couple days befroe xmas on four hundred foot rolls 2 blue 2 black. i think people who have neg. comments suck. I was not trying to be rude by asking the guy if he seen any builds here. He just never seen anybody run neg fromm front to back. I have just finding out if its worth it.

I wish every body had beat so I wouldnt have to turn my shit down. Fosgate for life running there shit since I was 16 going on 15 years strong. Not stopping any time soon.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Doing a run of negative from front to back will give you a better connection than grounding the back to the frame. Like one other person said a ground should not be longer than 3 feet, well if the current only has to travel through a huge wire that is 10ft+, it will still be more efficient than traveling throughout the whole frame THEN to the wire. Bottom line is a direct connection is better than grounding to the frame, but if you do not have the $$ for the wire to do so, just go ahead and ground it to the frame, it still works.

That's what i thought. I have seen people drill holes through the sheet metal in their trunks and go straight to the frame. Like I said i have never done it my self so i don't know. I always do the "big 3" and call it good. Most people around MI don't have anything over 2K watts so that maybe why i have never seen it...

lower tuning is just hard. I was surprised how loud 145 sounds at 35hz, and how quiet 145 sounds at 50hz.

-= 2005 Tahoe LT =-Head unit: Pioneer AVH-X5500BHSSource: iPad Mini in dash

Subs: 2 T1 12's

Sub Amp: T1500-1bdCPWire: Rockford Fosgate 1/0 awgSignal Cable: MonsterFronts:Stock Bose for now:)Rears: Stock Bose for now:)MIds/High amp: Stock Bose for now:)

2005 Tahoe Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/172529-2005-tahoe-my-17th-vehicle/

2001 Monte Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/160030-2001-monte-carlo-my-16th-car-lol/page-2#entry25309381997 Tahoe Build Log: http://www.stevemead...oe-6-15-rf-15s/2001 Impala Build Log: http://www.stevemead...katzkin-inside/SMDSig3-26-12.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Adding a piece of 1/0 from my alt case to my - battery post and running a 1/0 ground from front to back was the best thing i did for electrical.

you can cook bacon shirtless if you're not a pussy...lol

not hatin, but am i wrong here it looks as if the amp is not grounded its hooked directly to the battery. it that the way it should be.

intr.jpg

DC.jpgDC POWER

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the chasis has far more surface area than a single run or two runs of 1/0 will ever have.

If you properly ground to the chassis/frame you will not need a ground run. measure your voltage under load at the front and the rear of the vehicle simultaneously and see what it does.

DCAUDIO

BALLS DEEP

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well guys I added another run of pos. and two neg. and It was worth it. I ran one from the batt. and one from the alt mount. When I find my volt meter ill know how big a difference it made. I never got an answer from the guy on this forum so I went and bought three new g31's.

I wish every body had beat so I wouldnt have to turn my shit down. Fosgate for life running there shit since I was 16 going on 15 years strong. Not stopping any time soon.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i like ground front to rear batts as well as ground the back batteries to the chassis.. the back battery must be grounded in a way that it is connected to a nice chunk of steel.. i hate seeing people ground the rear battery to a 1/8 inch thick.... or thinner.. piece of shitty sheet metal with paint still on it...

Team sundownWESTCOASTSPL.COM we're throwing dbdrag events very soon visit the website for details

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the chasis has far more surface area than a single run or two runs of 1/0 will ever have.

If you properly ground to the chassis/frame you will not need a ground run. measure your voltage under load at the front and the rear of the vehicle simultaneously and see what it does.

Agreed

Member since 25 Jun 2006

2011 Yukon DenaliCustomLightz 4300K HID RetrofitEsky TailsEsky Third BrakeEsky 22sEsky Appliques

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I find my meter i will see if it matters. I have a bolt in my frame under the batts. ready for the test. If I dont find it tonight I will go get my brothers. If its the same im taken the wire out.

I wish every body had beat so I wouldnt have to turn my shit down. Fosgate for life running there shit since I was 16 going on 15 years strong. Not stopping any time soon.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll agree that the chassis has a lot more surface area, but there are a few things that mess your theory up.

1) Conductivity of copper vs steel. Copper is far more conductive.

2) Welds and spot welds.

The chassis of a car is no better than 4 Gauge copper wire... Run a dedicated positive and a dedicated negative. Drop the necessary $50- $80 to do so, throw it into the car and if it doesn't make a difference fuse it and use it as a positive... Either way, the less resistance the better.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1935 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...