I DONT GET IT IM ABOUT TO SELL IT ALL!!!!

[SVT4LIFE]

i ran 2500wrms off a stock 80amp alt and 2 batteries, it wasnt the bestest of ideas but it worked...

anyway, you really should use 1/0 for the big 3. Something to always remember do it right the first time or kick your self in the ass later.

Oh and run addition cables, dont bother replacing stock ones.

Suitable 1/0 and crimp terminals can be found at your local welding supply store, its 1/0 welding lead. It quite as flexible as some 1/0 but is still extremely flexible. Last time i bought it, it was 1.96 a foot. Oh and a special note, make sure the ass hat working at the store gives you 1/0 not 1 gauge, because apparently they dont understand the difference.

Also the distro block can still be used and will actually make installation easier

i can get the welding wire from work for free just didnt know if it would be any good

and where should the distro go without chokeing my system i was told to use the battery as the distro hhhmmmm :hairtrick:

[SPL KID]

one of your problems is this... and im only on page 3, don' mix and match batteries with kinetiks the kinetik will not charge and will die. get a volt meter pull lose the kinetik and check the voltage. if it's still fine and reads over 12.6 your good. Just get a bigger kinetik for the front do the big 3. Next step look into a bigger alternator.

[stephenes89]

man im basically going through the same thing right now, i have two 750w kenwood amps for my mids & highs and they're pullin just fine, once i got my amp back (2000w-bxi) i hook it up and when i would turn it up it cut out, i set the gains a little lower, did nothing for me. i was running with my stock 105 alt. but i basically have said the hell with it and am working on getting a iraggi alt. from Dom. if im still having problems with atleast a 300amp alt. (which i doubt i will) i might loose it haha, but luck to ya man

but yea i would say get a HO Alt. shoot a pm at Dom.

-i've been bass-less for 3 months now..fml, ha

[SVT4LIFE]

one of your problems is this... and im only on page 3, don' mix and match batteries with kinetiks the kinetik will not charge and will die. get a volt meter pull lose the kinetik and check the voltage. if it's still fine and reads over 12.6 your good. Just get a bigger kinetik for the front do the big 3. Next step look into a bigger alternator.

what do u mean dont mix and match batts i have a yellow top brand new under the hood and a kinetik HC800 in the trunk

and the everything was working kool until i ran this zero and distro

only prob i was having beofre the zero and distro was my arc amp for the doors was cuting out and the subs would stay on so it was the other way around

i might still have the same prob with the doors amp idk cause i havent played it long enough for it to do it cause the bass keeps cutting out right now

but before the arc audio amp the green power light would blink orange and cut out and go into protect for some reason idk .. mainly happen when slappin songs that have dumby loud highs...but then that use to happen with the jl amp low volt with really low lows so idk need to fix it before i fokn shoot somebody lol

[SVT4LIFE]

man im basically going through the same thing right now, i have two 750w kenwood amps for my mids & highs and they're pullin just fine, once i got my amp back (2000w-bxi) i hook it up and when i would turn it up it cut out, i set the gains a little lower, did nothing for me. i was running with my stock 105 alt. but i basically have said the hell with it and am working on getting a iraggi alt. from Dom. if im still having problems with atleast a 300amp alt. (which i doubt i will) i might loose it haha, but luck to ya man

but yea i would say get a HO Alt. shoot a pm at Dom.

-i've been bass-less for 3 months now..fml, ha

ya i was tryin to find one but couldnt for my car year and motor cause my year only like 15% of the car my year had my motor its a 2003 ford focus SE auto 2.3L DOHC 4cyl and stock has a 110A alt

[skittlesRgood]

one of your problems is this... and im only on page 3, don' mix and match batteries with kinetiks the kinetik will not charge and will die. get a volt meter pull lose the kinetik and check the voltage. if it's still fine and reads over 12.6 your good. Just get a bigger kinetik for the front do the big 3. Next step look into a bigger alternator.

thats funny, im running a yellow top, deka g31, batcap 600, and a kinetik 2400 with no problems. i think you are just saying what some one elce told you. why would a battery not charge when its hooked up with another kind of battery? are kinetiks just snobs and dont play well with others?

i didnt read through a lot of this but it seems an obvious power problem. get a bigger battery or a bigger alt. it dont turn the volume up so high.

[ktm300]

Yep you are one the right track with the big 3. Use zero ga and leave the factory wires in place. Don't forget to fuse the + wire that goes from the alternator to the battery.

The 110AMP alternator will be fine for now, I don't think that is your problem.

Same with your different batteries, thats the least of your problems. Its minor.

Let me know if you need help with that ish, I can show you how I have my wires run. I use a distro block, thats where my 2 batterys connect to each other, then split to my amps.

[Miakehl]

dont turn the volume up so high.

What he said...

I find it hard to believe that a newer vehicle wouldn't have a voltmeter. If it has a DIC(driver information center) it will have a digital one, maybe you don't know how to find it.

If you don't have a DIC, I'd think you'd damn well have a needle with a picture of a battery behind it on your gauge cluster that reads from like 8-16.

If you have neither (which is damn near impossible) GET ONE. They're rather cheap. Also, use a DMM(digital multimeter) to test your batteries for voltage, one of them may be no good. (it happens)

Assuming both of the first points are true, chances are you wouldn't be able to figure out how a DMM works (or just don't have one) take it into a local AutoZone type establishment and have them check the batteries. If they are good, check the alt. (They should do both for free) If that is all good, double and triple check all your connections (especially your grounds and fuses).

If you go through all of that and you still get issues do a big 3. However, you should have already done this and are running far behind. If you know how to solder, solder the lugs onto the end, don't crimp. It gives a much better connection.

After you do the big 3 and still get problems after you check the batteries and they're good, I'd look into getting a HO alt. However, you should be able to run 1500w rms with a stock 80A alt, but the batteries and amp won't appreciate it. Turn down the damn gains until you get one.

If you go through ALL THAT and STILL have an issue, remove the amp and beat it with a hammer then get a new one. It's fucked, you just beat it with a hammer.

tl;dr: A summary of every post in the entire thread.

Power flow, it's not hard.

[SVT4LIFE]

Yep you are one the right track with the big 3. Use zero ga and leave the factory wires in place. Don't forget to fuse the + wire that goes from the alternator to the battery.

The 110AMP alternator will be fine for now, I don't think that is your problem.

Same with your different batteries, thats the least of your problems. Its minor.

Let me know if you need help with that ish, I can show you how I have my wires run. I use a distro block, thats where my 2 batterys connect to each other, then split to my amps.

thanks bro... but "off topic" you got a KTM 300 or what u ride single track or what i got a 06 CR250 you can see my upload vids of it on u tube my screen name on u tube is SVT4LIFE we should go rip it up some time

"""" 2 SMOKERS 4 LIFE""""""" 2 STROKE MAFIA!!!

[SVT4LIFE]

What he said...

I find it hard to believe that a newer vehicle wouldn't have a voltmeter. If it has a DIC(driver information center) it will have a digital one, maybe you don't know how to find it.

If you don't have a DIC, I'd think you'd damn well have a needle with a picture of a battery behind it on your gauge cluster that reads from like 8-16.

If you have neither (which is damn near impossible) GET ONE. They're rather cheap. Also, use a DMM(digital multimeter) to test your batteries for voltage, one of them may be no good. (it happens)

Assuming both of the first points are true, chances are you wouldn't be able to figure out how a DMM works (or just don't have one) take it into a local AutoZone type establishment and have them check the batteries. If they are good, check the alt. (They should do both for free) If that is all good, double and triple check all your connections (especially your grounds and fuses).

If you go through all of that and you still get issues do a big 3. However, you should have already done this and are running far behind. If you know how to solder, solder the lugs onto the end, don't crimp. It gives a much better connection.

After you do the big 3 and still get problems after you check the batteries and they're good, I'd look into getting a HO alt. However, you should be able to run 1500w rms with a stock 80A alt, but the batteries and amp won't appreciate it. Turn down the damn gains until you get one.

If you go through ALL THAT and STILL have an issue, remove the amp and beat it with a hammer then get a new one. It's fucked, you just beat it with a hammer.

tl;dr: A summary of every post in the entire thread.

Power flow, it's not hard.

remove the amp and beat it with a hammer then get a new one. It's fucked, you just beat it with a hammer.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! LMFAO!!!!!!!! it might be the stupid amp cause it dose have a feature that i dont like if it drops like below 10 volts it cuts out or something like that but fuck you had me laughing my fucking ass off

and i have a 110A alt stock so i was told buy the 2 different parts stores

so i have to put a fuse in between the pos line of alt and batt i have 2 extras laying around a mini anl one and a round fuse one

#1 do the big 3

#2 run the rear kinetik to the zero gauge then from the kinetik go 4 gauge off the kinetik to the amps

#3 and try and find better grounds

and not use the distro block at all.... the kinetik batt will be the distro block... so nothings choked?