Rogers Posted June 27, 2010 Report Share Posted June 27, 2010 i was talking with someone about mounting my sa-12's with T-nuts... but i cant remember what size i should get... what size Tnuts should i use with my sa-12's? Quote http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/79921-rogers-700-dream-car-update-page-17-a-wall/?p=2335774 93 Saturn SC2My system4 SA-15's Walled 2 Cerwin-Vega S2000's 3 Kinetik Hc2000's Dual 200amp alts. you guys done with the peepee touching contest or do I need to end it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogers Posted June 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2010 any input from anyone? id like to order them asap!!! Quote http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/79921-rogers-700-dream-car-update-page-17-a-wall/?p=2335774 93 Saturn SC2My system4 SA-15's Walled 2 Cerwin-Vega S2000's 3 Kinetik Hc2000's Dual 200amp alts. you guys done with the peepee touching contest or do I need to end it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALPINE408 Posted June 27, 2010 Report Share Posted June 27, 2010 Don't need t nuts get some deck screws and call it a day I use 1 inch deck screws to hold my 18's in a wall doing 160 DBS never had one break or strip Quote Have you ever had your woofers blown? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wL<3bass Posted June 27, 2010 Report Share Posted June 27, 2010 (edited) 1/4"x?" depending on the baffle thickness I usually use one 1/2" longer than I need. Edited June 27, 2010 by wL<3bass Quote Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4 Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2" Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400 Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube) Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors) Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex My YouTube Videos My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build My "Seamless" Looking Box Build My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk My feedback/references... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogers Posted June 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2010 baffle is 1.5" thick... and i want to use bolts for a couple reasons... first, screws strip out too easy... and second, if some jackass decides to try to steal my shit... then they are going to have a tough time getting my woofers with a screwdriver or cordless drill and phillips bit....... seriously who carries around a socket set? Quote http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/79921-rogers-700-dream-car-update-page-17-a-wall/?p=2335774 93 Saturn SC2My system4 SA-15's Walled 2 Cerwin-Vega S2000's 3 Kinetik Hc2000's Dual 200amp alts. you guys done with the peepee touching contest or do I need to end it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baaudio Posted June 27, 2010 Report Share Posted June 27, 2010 How are you planning on mounting this? I have a hard time with my t-nuts grabbing mdf. Its too hard or something so half the time they don't bite in and its a nightmare to get the woofer out after. Or a thought I just had was to mount the tee nut and then run a bolt from the backside so that you lay the woofer over the studs then put a nut on the stud sticking out. Might look funny. But if you lock the bolt against the t nut like double nutting I think this would work. Hell I might try it next time my subs are out Quote Team NWSPL baaudio Build Log 2001 GMC Sierra walkthrough 4 Mechman Elite 370s, 10 AGM batteries, 3 Crossfire XS v2 18s, Crossfire 8k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobonit Posted June 27, 2010 Report Share Posted June 27, 2010 I used 1/4" t-nuts. To help them stay in so they don't spin out when screwing the subs in, instead of hammering them in, I put some wood glue on the side that faces the wood, put a sub in place and used the 1/4 bolts to pull them in. That way they are also lined up perfectly. Quote 97 Maxima SE Bunch of shit going in, check out the build Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALPINE408 Posted June 27, 2010 Report Share Posted June 27, 2010 you can get Deck screws with a star or square head and they don't strip nobody walks around with a square or are star tip bit but if you wanna waste your time with t nuts go for it Quote Have you ever had your woofers blown? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingsuv Posted June 27, 2010 Report Share Posted June 27, 2010 (edited) Be careful using T-nuts. If they do not bite into the wood very well, Like when using mdf, They will strip and spin like a loose nut. A 1/4 - 20 will do just fine to feed through most speaker mounting holes Edited June 27, 2010 by kingsuv Quote Designing, building, and shipping boxes. Yahoo IM - kingsuv00If the listening level is too loud, please inform the driver, so he can promptly pull over, and let you out. not many cars can get me to pluggin my ears but this one.......damn. I mean the first minute is ok but that thing just really starts digging deeper and deeper in your earhole till you cant stand it no more. Seems like it does it with relative ease....16 12's on 8 amps.........gotta love it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigg Boy Posted June 27, 2010 Report Share Posted June 27, 2010 I drill the hole put a bolt through it with a big washer on it, and pull the tnut into the wood by tightening the bolt. I have never had one fall out, and I have about 48 in my box right now. I use 1/4" to hold my subs in, and 3/8" to bolt my ports in Quote Dodge Magnum with custom 300c front end, laid out on air bags *4) 12" Cadence Daytona walled *1) AudioQue 20k *270a DC Power Alt (Dual coming soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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