bassl0va Posted July 9, 2010 Report Posted July 9, 2010 So for everyones information I have changed my entire layout of my trunk. (THIS ARE ONLY PLANS STILL NEED TO RAISE MONEY) 1 - 10" 6 - 12" 2 - 15" This is ONLY the trunk I suck at draawing but im going to try so i can get a mental picture on the web I hope you aren't mixing sizes, never mix subwoofer sizes. My RE MT 18" wall build Former build, farewell beloved wall.In progress, Toyota Starlet build This forum has a massive boner for ridiculous electrical upgrades.
Hotdog Posted July 9, 2010 Report Posted July 9, 2010 I hope you aren't mixing sizes, never mix subwoofer sizes. Yea dont mix them like me 148.1db Legal Dash Sealed DB Drag But if you do decide to mix them up have a seperate chamber for each size and make sure your tuning is exact. (NEW) 2004 F-150 Build Log -->http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/192208-hotdogs-f-150-build-log/ 2003 Mercury Mountaineer Build Log --> http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/114380-hotdogs-2003-mountaineer-build-log-20-removed/page__gopid__1602379#entry1602379 2008 Equinox Build Log --> http://www.stevemead...g/#entry1475764
basshead4life Posted July 9, 2010 Report Posted July 9, 2010 Yes thats simple math of course but subs dip down they aren't flat doesn't that have to come into place somewhere? no because the way the sub moves is linear but not to the cones surface if it was then your doing it wrong because your folding cones lol Team S.M.D. Maritime Car Audio- (2) 18" SSA ZCON D1 - American Bass 500.1 - 60 ft of 3/0 -480 Ah of battery - (2) stock alternators (70 +90) - Kenwood Excelon x-794, 4v preouts car audio is just a LOT more complicated than "this amp does this power" or "this sub will be this loud". its like 2 + 2 = banana. (if that confuses you then you get the point) lol
basshead4life Posted July 9, 2010 Report Posted July 9, 2010 no because the way the cone moves is linear but not to its surface. sorry if it sounds confusing i dont really know how to explain it that well Team S.M.D. Maritime Car Audio- (2) 18" SSA ZCON D1 - American Bass 500.1 - 60 ft of 3/0 -480 Ah of battery - (2) stock alternators (70 +90) - Kenwood Excelon x-794, 4v preouts car audio is just a LOT more complicated than "this amp does this power" or "this sub will be this loud". its like 2 + 2 = banana. (if that confuses you then you get the point) lol
spl4life Posted July 9, 2010 Report Posted July 9, 2010 one thing you might want to consider is total displacement... which is SD * Xmax... that gives you total air volume being moved... My first truck... My first Real build... *Update 8/9/10 DC Power 270xp Alt is In!!!* 1997 Toyota T-100 DC Level 5 18" in a T-line Everybody wants their system to be.... 1. Cheap 2. Reliable 3. Loud ...you can only pick two. micahmye hertz pack
Bigballa39213 Posted July 9, 2010 Report Posted July 9, 2010 Its all in the subs and install. I had a guy with four kicker Comp 15s and 2 power acoustik 4000 watts amps. Yeah I know. I had 2 RE SX 12s and a Soundstream DTR1.3400d. The 4 Kickers did a 145.3 on the dash TL. My SXs did a 146.0 on the dash TL. On the same day. 98 Chevy Blazer 4 Door Stock Everything The New Setup 1 - Pioneer AVH-P5200DVD 1- Pioneer DEH-80PRS 2 - Blues Audio 5.25 Mids ( On the dash ) 2 - Blues Audio BL8.0C Components ( In the front doors ) 2 - Blues Audio BL8.0 Woofers ( In the rear doors ) 1 - Linear Power 952 ( Dash ) 1 - Linear Power 2202IQ Modified ( Components ) 1 - Linear Power 3002 ( Rear Doors ) 1 - SoundStream XBP-10 Processor 1 - SoundStream BX-20Z 2 - SoundStream DTR1.3400D 4 - RE Audio SX12D4
BigRed Posted July 9, 2010 Author Report Posted July 9, 2010 If you take the time to go though the many builds on this site you will see builds ranging from 2 10s in a trunk doing low to mid 150s to multiple 18s in an suv doing similar numbers. This is just my personal opinion on how I would go about choosing what setup I want to use. First determine how much airspace you have to work with. After you have your total airspace now you can start searching for the subs and quantities that fit your airspace. Too little or too much cuft per sub will drastically effect the end result. Going by the factory specs for airspace required for each sub is a good place to start. After you choose your subs then find an Amp or 2 that will put out the power that your subs need. Now the most important part for me is the electrical system. Make sure that your alternators and battery can handle the extra wattage that your system will be drawing. Some cases you can just do the big 3 up front and possibly add a second battery and you will be ok but just to be on the safe side a HO alt is never a bad idea. As I said this is just my opinion and I am sure there are many more out there. But there are just too many things that go into building a loud system that the argument between low power and cone area or high power and fewer subs. The best example I can give of this is a friend of mine was running 6 15s on 5k and maxed it out 148.5, then changed down to 2 15s on the same power and gained 1 db. The only difference was how the box was built. Hope some of my early A.M. rambling makes sense Makes perfect sense. Id say i'm experienced but there is alot more to learn. My roughest areas are electrical and airspace. I understand the whole concept how to do it basics setting a box up etc. But i don't know any advanced methods something truly harness a powerful system you know? Other than that I got it down. That trunk set up right ^^^ is rough but made to be with around factory specs for air flow. Red
BigRed Posted July 9, 2010 Author Report Posted July 9, 2010 I hope you aren't mixing sizes, never mix subwoofer sizes. I could understand why you say that. Put I plan on keeping all my different sizes in their own boxed and tunned and amped with a same size sub. I would not try to put a 15" with a 10" and try to make them both play 26hz haha. No i will have seperate boxes and tunning for each size. Is that still a probably? I thought this would help me harness all ranges of bass. Red
BigRed Posted July 9, 2010 Author Report Posted July 9, 2010 If you have questions what those pictures are showing Just post (Picture: #?) This is my plan for the dash and center console. This is all fiberglassed by the way. As well as the trunk Red
notorious97200 Posted July 9, 2010 Report Posted July 9, 2010 Don't mix subs, please ! Maybe you'll make big numbers, but will it sound good ? I don't think so ! Good luck with this (big) build. black BMW X1 2.0 l 192 hp OEM head unit, Amplifiers : Audison AP 8.9 with integrated DSP and Ampere Audio 1200. Focal ES 100 K in front doors, and Dayton RS 180 for midbass under the front seats. 2 SSA DEMONS 10" subs, in a sealed box. SecondSkin Damplifier on front doors, and Luxury Liner Pro for the cargo area.
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