thebull1tt Posted August 3, 2010 Report Share Posted August 3, 2010 Which do you guys think would work better for current hungry class A/B amplifiers? I've just tried both. (I don't have the room in my trunk to install both of them at the same time at the moment.) It just makes me wonder why the serious SPL competitors only use multiple batteries and no carbon alloy caps like an Alumapro CAP 50? '94 Honda Accord EX coupe (may be getting an '04 Accord EX coupe soon): Iraggi 200 amp Amputator alternator Alumapro 15 farad CAP 1/0 Knukoncepts wire throughout w/the Big 3 underhood 10 gauge speaker wire Q-Logic kick panels Scosche HEXAD RCA's XS Power D6500 (2nd battery) Die Hard Platinum AGM battery (main battery) 4 Horizontal Fans 144 sq. ft. Dynamat Extreme Dynaxorb panels inside the doors behind the mid bass Eclipse CD-7200mkII w/IPC-106 iPod module Precision Power A600.2 (2) (150x2 @ 4 ohms)w/Power Class adapters Precision Power A1200.2 (1200 watts @ 4 ohms bridged) w/ Power Class adapters CDT ES-01 tweets, ES-02 mids (both PSS spec) CDT PSS 6iM midbass CDT MX-1000 passive crossovers Image Dynamics IDMAX12 in 1.3 cu.ft. sealed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dugee81 Posted August 4, 2010 Report Share Posted August 4, 2010 alumapro CAP 50, as in a capacitor? capacitors are good for short bursts, but become really inefficient when they are drained and you need more juice. just my opinion. 200a alt. by Excessive Amperage hc800 under hood & 2 Deka 9a31 in rear 1/0awg + big 3 SAZ 3000D HDC3 18" @ 2 ohm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wL<3bass Posted August 4, 2010 Report Share Posted August 4, 2010 Capacitors main function is not to replace a battery, a capacitor is added once you electrical system has little to no voltage drop (.1-.3v generally) to help even out voltage spikes. Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4 Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2" Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400 Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube) Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors) Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex My YouTube Videos My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build My "Seamless" Looking Box Build My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk My feedback/references... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebull1tt Posted August 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2010 Well, I tried both very recently. The battery dropped down to 13.8 volts when the bass hit. It wasn't impressive sounding at all. The Alumapro CAP 15 on the other hand maintained a constant 14.3-14.4 volts and has my system slamming! I intend to rebuild my trunk next month with both the battery and the CAP going in. The Alumapro caps are not your typical electrolytic capacitors. They are carbon alloy and from my experience are more than awesome. I'm wondering why SPL competitors only use multiple batteries in their set ups? The batteries take way too long to recharge! This is from my own personal experience. '94 Honda Accord EX coupe (may be getting an '04 Accord EX coupe soon): Iraggi 200 amp Amputator alternator Alumapro 15 farad CAP 1/0 Knukoncepts wire throughout w/the Big 3 underhood 10 gauge speaker wire Q-Logic kick panels Scosche HEXAD RCA's XS Power D6500 (2nd battery) Die Hard Platinum AGM battery (main battery) 4 Horizontal Fans 144 sq. ft. Dynamat Extreme Dynaxorb panels inside the doors behind the mid bass Eclipse CD-7200mkII w/IPC-106 iPod module Precision Power A600.2 (2) (150x2 @ 4 ohms)w/Power Class adapters Precision Power A1200.2 (1200 watts @ 4 ohms bridged) w/ Power Class adapters CDT ES-01 tweets, ES-02 mids (both PSS spec) CDT PSS 6iM midbass CDT MX-1000 passive crossovers Image Dynamics IDMAX12 in 1.3 cu.ft. sealed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soundzright Posted August 6, 2010 Report Share Posted August 6, 2010 Well, I tried both very recently. The battery dropped down to 13.8 volts when the bass hit. It wasn't impressive sounding at all. The Alumapro CAP 15 on the other hand maintained a constant 14.3-14.4 volts and has my system slamming! I intend to rebuild my trunk next month with both the battery and the CAP going in. The Alumapro caps are not your typical electrolytic capacitors. They are carbon alloy and from my experience are more than awesome. I'm wondering why SPL competitors only use multiple batteries in their set ups? The batteries take way too long to recharge! This is from my own personal experience. What are the amplifiers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cashdollar2009 Posted August 6, 2010 Report Share Posted August 6, 2010 I am also curious as to what amplifier? You state class a/b so I am assuming you are running some small 2-channel. Maybe 500 watts. On stock electrical and any power really, expect to see voltage as such before the cap. The caps voltmeter may actually be a bit high. When running higher amounts of power you will actually notice a HUGE difference in performance... Also with a higher gauge wire, your big three done, and in a lot of cases a ho alt, you won't have to worry about your battery because it is constantly recharging as the car is running. lol Caps are used to smooth out your current when your current is VERY steady. They are usually used like a half-ass band-aid. 1997 Chevrolet Cavalier Two 12" DC Audio XL M2'sCrescendo Audio BC5500d Current Scores: 150+ out the Trunk On 6/30/2011 at 1:11 AM, 'Ray' said: Acoustical energy is free. Electrical energy is not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebull1tt Posted August 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2010 The amplifiers are old school Art Series Precision Power. Two A600.2's (150X2 @ 4 ohms) and an A1200.2 (1200 watts at 4 ohms bridged). The speaker outputs on the A1200.2 were metered at 150 Volts peak to peak. I just killed my IDMAX12 yesterday beating the hell out of it! I have an Iraggi Amputator 200 amp alt with overdrive pulley, the big three all done in 1/0 wire, Precision Power Power Class power connectors which accept larger gauge wire, a Die Hard Platinum AGM battery under the hood, and of course the Alumapro CAP15. Have you ever tried a carbon alloy Alumapro CAP? Everyone talks trash about capacitors but I think they've only tried your everyday electrolytic type. The Alumapro out performed the battery tremendously! 13.8 volts versus a steady 14.3-14.4 volts. The audible difference is humongous! Try one out before you call it a band aid and all that other b.s. In my experience, batteries take way too long to recharge. The current and voltage is instantaneous with the CAP. I'm now a firm believer. '94 Honda Accord EX coupe (may be getting an '04 Accord EX coupe soon): Iraggi 200 amp Amputator alternator Alumapro 15 farad CAP 1/0 Knukoncepts wire throughout w/the Big 3 underhood 10 gauge speaker wire Q-Logic kick panels Scosche HEXAD RCA's XS Power D6500 (2nd battery) Die Hard Platinum AGM battery (main battery) 4 Horizontal Fans 144 sq. ft. Dynamat Extreme Dynaxorb panels inside the doors behind the mid bass Eclipse CD-7200mkII w/IPC-106 iPod module Precision Power A600.2 (2) (150x2 @ 4 ohms)w/Power Class adapters Precision Power A1200.2 (1200 watts @ 4 ohms bridged) w/ Power Class adapters CDT ES-01 tweets, ES-02 mids (both PSS spec) CDT PSS 6iM midbass CDT MX-1000 passive crossovers Image Dynamics IDMAX12 in 1.3 cu.ft. sealed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted August 7, 2010 Report Share Posted August 7, 2010 are you asking a question or doing a commercial? If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ugpbmx Posted August 7, 2010 Report Share Posted August 7, 2010 if the cap is out performing the xs power batt, then don't you think all of the major competitors would be using this particular cap instead of xs power? caps aren't used for a reason. unless there is almost no voltage drop. MY TRUCK BUILD - 1976 F-100 Ranger. Fully built 482 big block, 4 DC lvl4 15's in a blowthrough, plenty of custom fabrication. MY HATCH BUILD - 1993 Honda Civic DX Hatchback . Clean daily driver, dropped, subtle customization. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cqtama Posted August 7, 2010 Report Share Posted August 7, 2010 hmmm sounds like a sales pitch. i think we been trolled but just in case. where are your reading the voltage from? i hope from a real voltmeter and not the meter on the cap. i actually own an xs power d6500 and have an ac delco 200 amp alternator, and run around 3500 watts daily and do not see drops below 13.5 even slamming super hard on my system so my friend im sorry but i have to call R.I.P '01 blazer you treated my ears well until your transmission blew up. New Project [top secret] 149.0 db on music driver window open; so close I feel some boners are fueled by viagra and not true intimacy!......if you know what i mean.... I swear... sometimes I wish I was retarded so I could just agree with everyone x. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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