Best 12k to 15k amp

[cqtama]

I stand corrected AQ20 8000w. But the thread still says Best 12k to 15k amp.

its "8000" lol they couldn't test higher.

EDIT: and thats at 1 ohm too. we're talking .7 here

EDIT #2:

It does "8k" but on the paper that came with it said 10,400w I think. I heard they couldn't test higher then that because it was tripping the power supply's that we feeding the amp. I am hoping to see 11-12k

[Ray]

dont put all your eggs in 1 basket.

just buy some more "smaller" amps

[deepsilencer]

I thought the biggest they had was a 3500.

they have a 20k

[R_Mac_1]

I stand corrected AQ20 8000w. But the thread still says Best 12k to 15k amp.

Thats rated. It does over 8k at 2 ohms. Someone clamped over 12k at 1 ohm at like <11 volts.

[sub2weeker]

sike. Definately not a myth

i have smashed my 4 18s for 8 months on a 16k and not one tinsel lead has fried. further more at 16k you better have thick tinsel wire on your subs or it will fry because it cant handle the power....

i play daily and musicaly and never blown a sub or tinsel wire.

So in short..... make sure your not running cheaply made subs on a sd 16k

[ahoz28]

i have smashed my 4 18s for 8 months on a 16k and not one tinsel lead has fried. further more at 16k you better have thick tinsel wire on your subs or it will fry because it cant handle the power....

i play daily and musicaly and never blown a sub or tinsel wire.

So in short..... make sure your not running cheaply made subs on a sd 16k

I got to hear the van and it was intimidating but it did sound good.

[NDMstang65]

i have smashed my 4 18s for 8 months on a 16k and not one tinsel lead has fried. further more at 16k you better have thick tinsel wire on your subs or it will fry because it cant handle the power....

i play daily and musicaly and never blown a sub or tinsel wire.

So in short..... make sure your not running cheaply made subs on a sd 16k

We used to run external tinsel leads...they would snap from over excursion because we actually design things to move..

The integrated tinsel leads have 4 times the amount of surface area than the big external tinsel leads that we used on the old BTL's. The only thing is these people that are making these amps bigger and bigger are switching the output transistors harder and harder...or higher.

The Korean amps tend to have more issues then the ones from Brazil, but they are still notching the wave form (note every "sine" wave that you see videos of is VERY fuzzy and is not defined...that's switching of the output transistors that is going into your speaker)

The tinsel leads start to become inductively heated by that switching frequency of the output transistors...and start to glow when they are moving +/- 32mm (if it is still linear).

Then you throw in no subsonic filter in the mix and some idiot trying to play a 18Hz chopped and screwed track in their 33Hz tuned box and the shit burns up.

Been there..done that. If you know when things are having enough you won't have issues. Any idiot with 7000+ watts on a woofer will simply burn things up because they have no clue what is going on. (Hence thanks to Korea/China..well now Brazil for making cheap high current nasty power.)

Because high voltage...allegedly is too expensive to build.

God we need to go back to the days of 4ohm power...it would make things so much easier instead of having to overbuild the heck out of everything with bigger and bigger wire to try to take the current these stupid amps are making.

/rant.

[OldsBoomer]

damn nick... tell them man... there is deff alot to learn from you

[Boon]

Because high voltage...allegedly is too expensive to build.

My Stetsom 10k's pull 190vdc between the rails... let's see anything American short of a T15k swing that kinda voltage around

You can't get high current without applying a high voltage differential first

Unless you're running really low impedance coils, of course...

[NDMstang65]

My Stetsom 10k's pull 190vdc between the rails... let's see anything American short of a T15k swing that kinda voltage around

You can't get high current without applying a high voltage differential first

Unless you're running really low impedance coils, of course...

I'm talking AC output voltage sweetie, NOT DC. You can have all the voltage in the world, if you don't have the current to drive it then it's not going to work (static is THOUSANDS of volts..and no current which is why it doesn't kill you when you get shocked) We're talking about output portion, not power supply portion and switching things through a half bridge or a bank of transistors. If they were running that kind of voltage they wouldn't be getting the piles of current out of the amps and designing them to run at 1ohm as they do. (1ohm resistive = high current, as in you are putting out as much current..as you are voltage, not 4ohms where you are putting out 4 times as much voltage as you are current)

That guy got 88 volts and 48 amps out of his 7k, 4224 watts, at 1.83ohms reactive.

That is NOT a high voltage amp..that is a high current amp.

A Crown a6000Gti was set up with 200 volt OUTPUT rails. (Which is a true A/B high voltage 4ohm amplifier)

8100 watts into a 4.6ohm load...which would be 200 volts and 43amps.

The amp was set up to do 200 volts and 50 amps and totally regulated by the controller board that they developed for it. Bar none the cleanest easiest amplifier on a speaker one could ever buy. High voltage 4ohm amplifiers are way easier on speakers, which is why all the pro sound people use at least 4ohm coils, if not 8 and 16 ohm coils and build the amplifiers properly to power the things and they don't skimp out on parts trying to make a buck. Concerts run hundreds of thousands of watts to the speakers with single layer edge wound 24awg flattened wire coils on the drivers and woofers and NEVER burn anything up. Car audio crap has a 8 layer 15.5awg flattened coil just to try to keep the thing together because the amplifiers suck that bad and burn crap up, you have to use huge wire to keep it together. It's not about efficiency anymore, it's about trying to retard proof everything thanks to these all of a sudden affordable 20kw high current amps...if you don't overbuild it and idiot proof it the speaker just burns.

Pro sound...totally different...and definitely how it should be in car audio..still.

But..it'll never happen again in car audio .