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birch vs mdf


baaudio

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Posted

done use hte 7ply bitch! i used it and i thought i was working with plywood

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Posted

i dont think you can kerf with birch..

ive used both and i like birch, or the fake birch atleast, due to weight

but i like mdf since its easier to cut, and i can kerf with it.

id always pick mdf, unless i built a big wall or something for a sports car and wanted to cut down one weight as much as possible

is there a Kerfing tutorial around here somewhere ? lol

I wanna learn how to do it,

Posted

is there a Kerfing tutorial around here somewhere ? lol

I wanna learn how to do it,

i made one over on ssa's forum, but its lost somewhere over there now

Posted

once i used birch ply ill never go back even the home depot 7ply is 3000x better than mdf.

when mdf gets a drop of water on it = ruined.

mdf is weaker and flexes alot.

1" 19 ply all hardwood ply birch is the most amazing wood i have ever used :) 55$ a sheet.

DCAUDIO

BALLS DEEP

Posted

you can deff kerf with birch in fact it does it better than mdf

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previously known as wenn_du_weinst aka fucking internet coward supreme.  I talk shit on other forums like a little bitch and hope i don't get caught out on the street.  

Posted

You can paint or stain birch, mdf is cheaper, birch is lighter and more expensive, if I had the bills I would use nothing but birch. Check out the T-Line Bandpass in mý sig, its stained and painted... Pretty different enclosure that I've ever seen anyone build.

Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4

Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2"

Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd

Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400

Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v

Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube)

Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod

Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors)

Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded

Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex

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My "Seamless" Looking Box Build

My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk

My feedback/references...

Posted

birch is usually around 35 here :peepwall:

mcintoshsigz.png

previously known as wenn_du_weinst aka fucking internet coward supreme.  I talk shit on other forums like a little bitch and hope i don't get caught out on the street.  

Posted

3/4" MDF is $28 a sheet, birch is $49 for 11ply 3/4"

Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4

Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2"

Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd

Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400

Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v

Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube)

Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod

Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors)

Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded

Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex

My YouTube Videos

My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build

My "Seamless" Looking Box Build

My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk

My feedback/references...

Posted

All this discussion about price.. But really tour only buying ( for most of us ) 2 sheet of PLY.. So an extra $40 isnt worth it>?

and as for Kerfing , I also think it would splinter , especially along all the kerf lines.. so on a standard 7 1/4 circ saw, a 60-80 tooth blade wont do it without splintering? I have a hard time believing that.. I cut shitty ass arauco ply with a 40 tooth blade ( 5 ply ) and it came out great on my horn

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