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OK, this thread has been cleaned up now. If i have to come in and clean up any more crap between the 3 problem children in this thread, people will be taking some time off from SMD. You are all grown ass men so stop acting like E thuggin argumentative 12 year olds. ITS FUCKIN RETARDED.

Now, you want to stop issues with corrosion on a wire? On open terminals, crimp it (with a good crimping device), solder the end to seal off all exposed wires and help induce better continuity and they use this magical stuff called HEAT SHRINK..

If it is a closed terminal like a welding lug, crimp, drill the end open to solder if you so desire then heat shrink the connection. People seem to forget that moisture WILL seep in that small area between the wires insulation and the lug terminal you are using. A sealing type double walled heat shrink is your best bet at preventing corrosion issues

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David said:

audio is a lifestyle, not a hobby

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you sir, get a pink hard hat on jobsites

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soldering with pure silver is best and is most conductive and i would recommend soldering 4 and 0ga wire usually if the solder joint is good solder has better conductivity in general

Ah but silver-bead solder SUCKS. It has to get SO much hotter. Lead/tin solder flows so much better. The conductivity shouldn't matter THAT much, most of the copper is in direct contact with the terminal anyway.

Unless like I said you suck at soldering like me lol. 12 ton hydraulic crimper FTW

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OK, this thread has been cleaned up now. If i have to come in and clean up any more crap between the 3 problem children in this thread, people will be taking some time off from SMD. You are all grown ass men so stop acting like E thuggin argumentative 12 year olds. ITS FUCKIN RETARDED.

Now, you want to stop issues with corrosion on a wire? On open terminals, crimp it (with a good crimping device), solder the end to seal off all exposed wires and help induce better continuity and they use this magical stuff called HEAT SHRINK..

If it is a closed terminal like a welding lug, crimp, drill the end open to solder if you so desire then heat shrink the connection. People seem to forget that moisture WILL seep in that small area between the wires insulation and the lug terminal you are using. A sealing type double walled heat shrink is your best bet at preventing corrosion issues

THANK YOU.

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All of the wires in my car are soldered, even the big ones. But if I have it my way then I would have gotten some hydrolic crimpers for the 1/0 and saved time.

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Idc what everyone else says. I solder no matter what kinda wire it is. With all the vibrations in the car, shit will come loose eventually. Would you rather have a 100 story skyscraper just "locked" together, or a welded frame? Yeah.

Soldering is not welding. Soldering is taking some sh!tty soft metal (why do you think you can melt it with a $10 thing that plugs into the wall) and running it between the other components.

Welding involves melting the components at their surface so that when it cools they are physically joined.

A proper crimp actually achieves what is called 'cold welding' where, due to the maleability of the metals, the 2 components physically merge.

There's a damn good reason that all the wires in your car are crimped, everything in aerospace is crimped, anything in power generation or transmission is crimped (well not any more, they use those twist-off bolt lugs now) and it's not because soldering a wire that big would take too long.

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