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It comes down to the minimum stable impedance your amp support, for a D1 wired in parallel you would need a 0.5 ohm stable amp.

For RF you can go with a larger net volume than suggested and tuning should be within 30-35Hz, subs up / port back for your type of vehicle, something like in the figure below:

The port in the middle (shared port) adds displacement because there are two non common walls instead of one of the side port design. Besides you don't say what skar subs or power or vehicle you are running which are also important in deciding a design.

That is superb work sir, it reminds me of how this forum was back in it's heyday. If anything I would remove some of the damping material close to the port inner ends as it may affect performance and tuning somewhat, something like 2-3 inches each side.

Ok...well I built the box over this past weekend. It was really pretty easy. I can't wait to see how it sounds. All parts were cut out using the table saw, I did have to trim the longer pieces to the correct length with a circular saw and fence...but no biggie. I started by laying out where things were going to go. This helps pre-drill holes and also allows you to double check the port spacing at all points. I started assembly with the interior port walls. Next were the bottom and sides. If you have never used these clamps....just buy them. They are worth every penny!! Here we are almost completely done. Just need to put in the wire and mount the subs and it will be read for a trial run.

Yes Sir, the ioxus is stright with being under the hood. It's the 8 long runs of positive and negative along with the cap/headway distribution to the Amps I am questioning.

So, do you recommend for daily to go ahrad with the specifications on the manual??, mines are for daily use, thanks.

Most head units clip a bit but you set your amplifier gains so that you get all the output of your system before you reach the volume level at which the head unit clips. While learning to setup your system gains properly (with a DD-1 or a cheap little scope) is what you likely need, it wouldn't hurt to get a modern head unit with a better DAC and higher line level outputs voltage, your really old head unit has only 2 Volt, you can get a 4 volt head unit just by not going for the cheapest bottom of the line head unit and those will still be reasonably inexpensive.

There is a thread for that: Say it should be around 40 Hz but if your box is for music and not burps, you don't want to tune close to resonance, it will likely make your system pretty bad. Your subs are for daily not competition.

Make sure that cap is safe under the hood !

Hi, I am installing 2 RF Power HX2 15" to a 1997 Tahoe 2 door, I am designing the enclosure but I would like to know the resonant frequency for this car so I can tone the port at same frequency, does anyone know what is this frequency for this vehicle?? I would really appreciate your support, thanks. Regards!!!

Box External Dimensions Width × Height × Depth 34.00" × 13.00" × 22.12" Material Thickness 0.75" Net Internal Volume 3.75 ft3 Tuning Frequency 35 Hz Port Area 52 inch2 Port Inlet Width × Height 4.52" × 11.50" Port Length 21.69" This is the box design i came up with for 2 12" Skar audio subs. These calculations are for front facing subs with front facing side port. But I want the subs pointing up with a center port. how do i figure out the port length cuts for center port. I'm assuming i cant just move the port to center and use the same length or can I?

I’m sure it could be better but this is a sundown x15 on sundown 2500. I have since upgraded to the def bonce 4900. Havnt made a new video yet. For my first loud system and first system with a 15 I am pretty happy with it. Jack just doin his dance lol IMG_0815.mov

What is a good budget friendly head unit to get the most out of a system? I currently have a pioneer deh5600-bt that I feel is not sufficient enough. It seems to clip a little too early. Maybe I’m wrong? I am open to suggestions.

Hello, need some advice. I have a 96 ah Lithium Headway Bank and IOXUS ultra cap and a JS-320 Alt. Going to delete my AGM and put the Cap in my battery position. I am not sure what the correct way to run my power and grounds. I have 3 amps 1 TARAMPs 3K Smart Bass and 2 TARAMPs 800x4. Do I make a distribution block and run all my amps, lithium and cap power wires to the distro block? I also am not sure if i need dual runs straight from my alternator to my lithium and one run from my Cap to the lithium? I have attached a diagram of my plan and any assistance would be appreciated. I am keeping my grounds the same so if i run 2 powers from my alt to battery then i will also run 2 grounds. Of course i will be running circuit braker type fuses between all the power runs but just did not show them in the diagram. Trying to figure out if these runs are quote unquote correct. Anyone running something similar to 96ah of Headway cells with a battery delete. i run my truck about once on the week day and sometimes on the weekend. dont know if the headways will drain. but the charging is so fast I think i could start it every now and then if needed.

Does anybody know where I can find 4/0 heat shrink ? The SMD logo.

If I build a blow through system in a quad cab truck with 2-18's, 2-15's, 4-12's, 4-10's, 6-8's, can I run all the ports through the tunnel into the cab? All on 24db/oct x-overs with minimal overlap. Can all of the ports be close to each other or do they need to be separated? All 4th order boxes in the bed and only the ports enter the cab.

80 would be around 1030 on a clock

Helix C4, Helix DSP.3, DD Audio M2000, 2-DD Audio 3510i Sub, Hertz MPK Pro 2-way installed in 07 Tundra. Back seat removed obviously:)

I just noticed. Sad to see that DD Audio has discontinued the 3500 s.

Currently I drive a 2001 Lexus gs300 with deafbonce apocalypse speakers in all doors and Tryna learn how to customize the front door panels to make the speakers fit without tapping the windows, but I will figure that out. the thing is that I bought dual x10 v3 sundown subwoofers and the box is a $600 sundown custom box. I am going to buy a new amp and a new alternator but am confused on which to buy. I know on mech I can buy a 320 amp alternator for $500 but I don't know if that will help with just playing music while idling, car used to die a lot when i first got into speakers because I had 2 10s and 2 12s with an amp splitter and running too much power for what my car could handle (little over 3000) but i need a 5000 watt amp and a new alternator and possibly a capacitator. I'm Tryna learns if anyone could give me a little guidance that would help.

I think you're sitting in the middle of a bunch of resonance and cancellations coming off every part of the inside of your car. With the given information, I think you need to deaden everything, but it may not really work because windows can't be damped and the dimensions of the car cannot be changed.

Joe X design is a good ported box. Corner 45s don't do much for a subwoofer box besides brace it and eat up internal volume. If you wanted a similar design with a bit more internal volume then I do have one free on youtube. Feel free to do basically whatever with it. You could also try to design a mass loaded transmission line with offset driver/stub. It's basically a lot like a ported box but attempts to cancel resonance in the enclosure to give more bandwidth.