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ehall8702 started following 2/0 Distribution Block?
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2/0 Distribution Block?
ehall8702 replied to westvan_dude's topic in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
Yeah these aren't fused , never been a fan of fused ones personally. This was basically a block with 4 bolts and a cover. - Yesterday
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Do a slot port with 100 sqin of port area, 9 net volume.
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Jonboy82 joined the community
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Pope joined the community
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I have a 2021Sentra SV big screen no Bose. It’s not audible for me. I intend to use a 5.1300 and may opt for a custom enclosure. Audio Control has no one who carries their full line of gear, and certainly no local car radio place is adequate. I really don’t want to do the installation myself but don’t want to be Moke. The installation will likely require an upgrade to the factory charging system, but Mechman is only a 6 miles away. I’m to old to want to assume the installation position, and too deaf to live with the factory junk.
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2/0 Distribution Block?
grandpixel replied to westvan_dude's topic in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
@ehall8702 What were you linking here? It's no longer there. I also need a fused distribution block that has 2/0 input and preferably 1/0 or 2 awg output. Also need more than 1 input, and at least 4 output. Or 1 input / 8 output. Thanks. -
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USED SMD DD-1 Distortion Detector
Joe X replied to stevenrajh's topic in SMD Distortion Detector (DD-1) Topics
From many places, here is one: https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-61378-SMD-DD-1-Distortion-Detector-Analyzer.html - Last week
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With a small scope you could compare the 0 dB tone with the tracks you have, might explain what you are experiencing.
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DailyBassinDane joined the community
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USED SMD DD-1 Distortion Detector
DailyBassinDane replied to stevenrajh's topic in SMD Distortion Detector (DD-1) Topics
Hi my name is Dane Moreau. I would also like to know where I can buy a used SMD Distortion Detector. And also a used AMM1. If anyone knows where I can find this please let me know. Thanks -
Budget friendly head unit
punkrockprs replied to punkrockprs's topic in Head Units-Processors and Eq's
I have a dd1 and I will set my amp to clipping and then back off until the light turns off. But then when I play music it will clip at that same point. I have to be doing something wrong -
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gwillie23 changed their profile photo
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Staba743 joined the community
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there doesnt seem to be any info from the manufacturer about crossover frequency... most component crossovers wont have that spec listed. if it came with your equipment originally i would say its probably fine to run up to the rated power the manufacturer suggests. the best way to know what you are crossing over and rolling off at would be to go active crossover with a dsp, or other unit that lets you set those parameters. if i had to guess that crossover is probably a -16db slope at or near the low end of the frequency range of the tweeters
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just realised this is a duplicate thread, and this one is in the wrong section. im copying and pasting my answer onto your other thread thats located correctly in case this thread gets locked/ deleted
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there doesnt seem to be any info from the manufacturer about crossover frequency... most component crossovers wont have that spec listed. if it came with your equipment originally i would say its probably fine to run up to the rated power the manufacturer suggests. the best way to know what you are crossing over and rolling off at would be to go active crossover with a dsp, or other unit that lets you set those parameters. if i had to guess that crossover is probably a -16db slope at or near the low end of the frequency range of the tweeters
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Jeremy009 started following What does this say. and Tweeter Passive Cross Question
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Hey Guys, 1 of my silks got damaged so am in the market for a new pair. I got the JL C2 6.5 components where the tweeters are 8ohm and a bit out of my budget right now. I reached out to JL where they said that if I use any other 4ohm or 6ohm tweeters (more available) it will increase the power the tweeter sees, which i understand. But they said it will also change the crossover points (raise or drop because of the change in ohm) on the passive crossover (C2s), in which i want to reuse. Ill add a picture of the crossover. Any way yall can calculate for me if it will raise or drop based on 4ohm and 6ohm? and if yall would know how much power the passive can actually handle based on viewing. Thanks
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Hey guys, I know this is the wrong forum but it seems that you get quicker responses here. Can anyone assist me in understanding just for my knowledge what is this crossover doing? what frequencies rolling off at and where ect. Its for a JL C2. And if anyone knows how much power this can safety handle.
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2 kicker L7 15s aero port
Cashdollar2009 replied to Jeremy134322's topic in Tunez - All things music related
I threw together sample dimensions to come up with about 9.7ft^3. Two 6" aeroports at 16" length results in around 9ft^3 tuned to 27.5Hz. That's honestly way too little port area. For something closer to Kicker's "port ratio" (they give slot port dimensions on their website, converted the rule of thumb numbers to reflect an aeroport) you'd want to do something like a 10" aeroport from someone like BigAss-Ports. https://www.bigass-ports.com/product-p/10vt1.htm A single 10" port at 16" of length nets you 8.9ft^3 tuned to around 32Hz. That's just under 4.5ft^3 net per sub (right in the middle of 3-6ft^3 recommended by Kicker) and a conservative port area number. -
Jeremy134322 joined the community
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I’ve looked around tons of websites and port calculators etc. I either get a really short Aeroport and then the sq inches of port per cube don’t add up to me. I’m looking to tune 32-35hz. My box is currently sealed and about 9.7 cubes after subs. I have 2 L7 15s and they’re firing up in my extended cab truck with 1/0 power/ground with 10guage speaker wire running off a hifonics Zeus 3200.1 I’m just curious if I need 2 6” ports at 16” length or what my brain is fried
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Comegetit86 joined the community
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Looking to build a box for a friend of mine for his 2 skar 12s he believes there just the SDRs but he has a trailblazer and likes slot ported either one in the center or one on each end of the enclosure. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Only done one other build for my American Bass XFL1544s.
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3 speaker system
Cashdollar2009 replied to ShanwOD's topic in Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"
I was really impressed recently on a pair of Skar TX65C's a customer had me install in their truck. (impressed for the price-point at like $100/set) https://www.skaraudio.com/products/tx65c-6-5-inch-component-speaker-system#Description However they also had a matching set of Skar TX65 coaxials in the rear doors and we powered everything off of a Rockford PBR300X4. -
ShanwOD started following 3 speaker system
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I'm looking for suggestions on speakers for a classic car. Nothing crazy. I'd like a pair of 6.5s and a 8" sub. The 6.5s will go in a center console. Just need something that will sound decent over the exhaust. Considering 6x9 in the rear deck as well but I have no desire to cut it or the door panels right now. Looking for best bang for the buck under $100 on a pair of 6.5s.
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ShanwOD joined the community
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Hey All, I'm working on a design for a center console build for my 2007 Ram 1500. (Sub up/Port back) Here is where I am at, and I was hoping for some input if I should be concerned with any loading issues or odd interaction in regards to the area above the entrance of my port. Talking through my logic here for design context - I originally intended for an L-port, but will not have clearance after the bend and it would put my port entrance too close to the bottom of the baffle. I am currently at my maximum dimension restrictions, so to work around this I adjusted the port as seen in my images below. I added the baffle extension around the sub to give me 1.75" of clearance between the subs pole vent and the top of the port, 1" just didn't feel like enough. This will be powered by a JP23V2 at either 0.7 or 1-ohm, have not decided yet. Port area was determined by trying to cut down on port velocity as much as possible. As it will be a center console, I chose to double-wall everything except the bottom of the box - which I intend to use some 2" dowels in the port (double walled port) to hopefully add a little extra rigidity along with all of the weight resting on that bottom panel. Torres is accounting for all single wall plus an extra baffle. When I modeled, I included the extra 1.5" for the double-walls in the appropriate dimensions. I will be molding the outermost edges towards the front to the dash itself, but kept everything square in the initial Sketchup model for simplicity. Trying ImageShack for the first time so hopefully images upload correctly...