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The tooling itself is not done in-house -- the frame is our (patent pending) design, though IMO... things like 12" spiders WILL become more readily available in the future... but possibly more-so in home audio. Either way I'm ready to use it to the fullest for Sundown at the last whether everyone else does the same or not! It may take a while, of course... the Ti frames were tooled ~15 years ago and it took basically until I tooled my frames to get something else any better in terms of clearances and strength. Now you'll see some other guys that, like myself, actually want to push the envelope doing their own frames... B2 just did a 15" frame, DC did an 8" and 15" frame, and Incriminator is working on frames too. The future of big powered subs is pretty promising once you leave behind 8" spiders and standard frames on those models (obviously theose parts are still perfect for units that aren't top of the line).

same reason you just replied to my post. Because you felt like it.

used in this install....... 24" Lexani Roma on 305/35/24" Kumho Tires (installed previously by owner) Stock Navigator Touchscreen deck (built in Navigation, etc.) JL Audio Clean Sweep Processor Apple Ipod Ready (and being used) Nav-Tv Module to make the stock screen into a Monitor 4 10.2" Savv Headrest monitors(2)with Side loading DVD players (4) Savv Personal Headphones (wireless, one for each screen) Rockford Fosgate T3000.1 Sub amp Rockford Fosgate T4004 Mids/highs (2) RE MT 12's (Resonant Engineering) (1) Set MBQuart 6 ½” Premium Componants (front) (1) Set MBQuart 5 ¼” Premium Componants (rear) Fiberglass, Plexiglass Ported "Meadebox" with custom LED Endlit “Lincoln” Logo (RGB style, ALL colors available at the touch of a button) Box wrapped in Fine Italian Leather with French Seams to match stock interior Custom in dash mounted Rockford Fosgate bass level, frequency and JL Audio master Volume knob( to match stock interior) Rockford Fosgate 12ga Speaker Wire 250amp Iraggi alternator 150 feet Stinger 1/0 cable (every connection Soldered to Stinger Terminals) Stinger Helix Series Interconnects Stinger Distribution Blocks Stinger Road Kill Sound Deadening 300Amp Fuse Odyssey pc2150 Battery Lincoln Navigator Upper/Lower Vertical Billet Grilles This wont be a crazy install at all, should sound nice, get loud if needed, and be nice and classy. Everything is behind the third row so i dont have alot of space but i think i have just enough........

Why would you even reply to that? Why give it the time of day?

Looks are one thing but remember one other thing. Everything Jacob does has an actual purpose in its mechanical design not just a " It makes it look cool" factor.

I'm not a cosmetics guy -- the appearance is really secondary to me to doing what I want. That being said it's most reminiscent of, say, an 18" 6-spoke -- but more rounded, bigger landings, much thicker, taller, etc. I'm not the kind of guy to put flames on it or any un-necessary cosmetic touches. It's big, it's strong, it works. To me -- being a beautiful piece of equipment follows naturally with it's working well. Sorry, didnt mean to start shit, But you built a sweet basket and thats fucking awesome! I just googled some pics of the dc baskets and this looks nothing like it. I should have checked myself before i wrecked myself.

Mother of god!!!

While im at it, look what else i picked up... nothin but a new 2150 An Iraggi 260 amp alt dont they make a great couple? ^^^^^

Just like that and were in business! Time to toss the Logo on the window.... I wonder how the white coating i did will reflect the light from the LED's.......

Picked up my LED's today....this time i did a 36" Strip with 48 LED's per foot, RGB style. Of course it didnt come pre wired......they wouldnt want to make it easy for me. Well its not that hard i guess. Dont Hate on my Wire Rack! The old school wire twist trick....

After knocking that down, time for some more filler. More sanding, then more sanding.......

Got a few more pics but it seems like more of the same stuff really. Saturday i went down to discuss "my next move" with my NEW upholstery guy. This thing is getting wrapped in leather to match the interior and will have french seams at all the curves. Should look super clean when done. I had a problem though, i flush mounted and molded the Aeroports into the box and made it next to impossible to get a clean "terminatation" at the ports for the leather. He said he needed a way to wrap the leather around and tuck under in those areas so i took it home and thought about it for a few and this is what i came up with. NOTHIN LIKE RE-DOING something youve already done but hey,thats the way it goes. Its not the mistakes you make, but what you do about them that counts Ok this is my solution. I grabbeds some chip-board and cut circles where teh ports are and intentionally left it "loose" about 1/4" under the "lip" of the new templates so he has something he can tuck the leather under. Taped the new template over the ports so it would hold its shape, then i soaked it in resin to give it some strength while keeping it flexible enough to pull up just a slight hair later. Once it set-up, i could take the tape off and pop a bunch of staples into it to pull it down in spots that were coming up, plus hold it in place too. Now its time for some Dynaglass. I didnt want to glass it in all the way because this needs to stay low profile and flexible at the port opening.

Not bad huh.......its like almost a full foot below the third row back seat! (at the low point anyway) Fits like a glove. so one more coat of filler.......ill use bondo for the final coat to give it one more "cleanup" session. Thats tonites work (after work )

ever try and sand this stuff by hand? Its like sanding concrete.....i have tools but this thing has a "flare" shape to it and its hard to get in the bend so i choose to go caveman and do it the hard way.

Ok so now its got some shape to it i start with more dynaglass or "kitty hair" so i can sculpt it without the negative effects of using straight bondo.

whats a little more fiberglass.....may as well

Time to shift gears and head back to the amprack portion of the box. I had to prep it for the amp wiring and also fix the flanges on the sides. Heres a good spot for some distribution blocks when the time comes to hook everything up. From here, the wires can drop down out of the truck and out to the HO alt up front (when i get it in of course)

After the shim is made and dropped into place, its not over yet, a 2nd frame (3rd if you count the shim) needed to be built but a little bigger so ill have something to fasten the plexi to. Should be tight when i finally get to pull the protective paper off the plexiglas....but for now it stays. That little 9" x 45" x 1" window was $85 and i damn sure dont wanna scratch it.

Time to figure out how to get the plexi in the front opening......i used a 1" window for this box. Only trouble is, the wood is 3/4MDF so i had to compensate for that when building the "frame" it will sit in. (notice the 1/4" "Shim")

Time to take the metal tape off the 4" Aeroports and see what they look like. So far so good These are going to be 12" long i just havent put the other ends on yet. Ill save that for last.

time for filling and sanding...... almost starting to take shape

looks like the same pics, but really its progress I took it "easy" last nite and only worked a couple hours on it after i got home from my regular job (at 5). Im starting to feel confident this box would stop a bullet....its so strong now. My next mission is to make it pretty and prepping the built in amp rack for some wires. Any doubts on the integrity of this box? Ill probably end up coating the inside with something to smooth it up some and not have that ugly fiberglass look. Im thinking of a plexi window in it so of course it cant look like crap on the inside.

the stuff i use is called "Nytex X-Mat" It is half "heavy chopped" and half "weaved" i guess you could say. Heres some pics of it. Notice a piece from my "emergancy stash"....its so thin you can see right thru it. The Nytex is so thick when you bend it, it stays, the cheap stuff just flopps back over. The "chemist" is in the house.....this bottle with the little measuring cup on top is like the greatest thing ever invented. For the MEKP, I dont go by "drops" anymore, im all about the "CC's"

Time to go over the top with Kitty Hair to make it a little bit stronger and to build up some spots that needed it. The part everyone hates, time to sand.....

some of it is particle board- some of it is MDF.......but the thing is, im using ALOT of fiberglass so it dont really matter. Ran out of fiberglass matt and had to go to my emergency stash....no worrys, ill re-up my supply tonite at least this crap-mat will keep me working. Look it even gave me "hairy palms" Ill end up 45-ing as many 90's as i can get to.....the ol' resin in the corner trick works great.

2 4" Aeroports will be molded into the top with the fiberglass so it will all flow like its "one" rather than seeing ****ty screws holding the ports to the box. This is very rough, gimme time