Leaderboard

Knowing your tuning frequency, ESPECIALLY while you still have time to make changes, is very important. Also, knowing what your graph actually looks like along with impedance, can make the difference between several hundred watts or more. This is something that can be seen and modified in real time. All changes you make are easily verifyable. Longer ports, Multiple ports, larger ports (more area), box volume changes, even polyfill can change the impedance curve and gain (or cost) you precious power. Plus knowing what it is tuned to for listening preferences is nice as well. (Rock, Rap etc) This is just a basic video showing a few plots and basic tuning verification of my last box. You can of course make a dot every .1 hz and get the most detailed curve ever if you wanted haha.

I just finished and installed my DC audio M3-8. I built the box out of Baltic birch (the real shit) and installed LEDs and polycarbonate. Let me know what you think. The subwoofer sounds amazing and its not even broke in yet. Hits the lows very well for an 8" sub. The box specs are. You can see my build by clicking on the link in my sig. Oh its in the back of a 1999 Toyota Tacoma 2wd 11.5 H 26 L 10.5 D Gross volume 1.28 Net volume .76 this is after sub and bracing displacement. Physical port length 30.25" Tuning is 36.15 HZ Port height 9" Port width 1.5" Port area 13.50 Port area per foot 17.85 Port ratio 1:6

neuspeedescort, you have been added. Sorry it took so long. I was not home to update the map. Thanks