ShadeTreeMechanic

I would do one amp per coil if I could afford it. Lol

Do all the speakers make the pop or just the subs? Try unplugging the rcas from the amps that pop to see if it is coming down the rca line.

I would guess that the time to engineer and test the design would cost a bundle. Then the labor to assemble and quality check if it was made in the us would be next. Then the parts depending on the quantity. The board might be the most expensive of the hard parts as there might need to be several revisions and tons of testing to make a satisfactory unit. We see the prototype and assume it works as expected. All of the costs they have incurred to this point would need to be rolled into the price of a bare board in order for it to make sense business wise. I would be afraid to ask what they have spent to get it this far. As far as good old fashioned American ingenuity goes, they are an inspiration. My hats off to Steve and Tony in all of their endeavors.

Or maybe just sell the board with a list of the components needed. Just an idea.

Maybe it could be a DIY kit. Just sell the components and board. Solider skills required. I like the idea of it being active.

Put them side by side and screw them down. I'm getting ready to buy some.

Holy dead post Batman! I just read the whole damn thing. I got excited about the line driver. Now I want one. Then I saw how old it was. Crap! Any updates?

I am getting ready to re do my doors too. Second skin for the win. Those tweeter brackets look interesting. How do they mount?

Nice truck! I too stepped up from a 150 years ago. Like you said,150s are nice. The biger trucks do bigger work. I went 10 years one time on a set of breaks in a f350. Lol the biger trucks are truly beast. What stereo upgrades are planned? You know you want some boom. Lol tuned in.

Ah the pcm knows what's best. Lol

Not a huge problem. The mods can move it if they want. Make sure to post up pictures of those speakers in your car. Oh almost forgot. Welcome to the site.

I just realized that you posted this in the wrong section. lol

I have seen a few builds on here that used Dayton audio drivers like the ones that parts express sells. I don't know what you have or what the t/s parameters are. You would have to try it to find out.

1258 cert.

The magnets are backwards? Ok now I have to buy a set. lol

Can't be connected backwards. I missed it. I will go back for a closer look. Thanks!

I love these! American ingenuity at its finest! I hope you got a patent for this. Would it be possible to make it keyed so it won't plug in backwards? Keep up the good work!

If there is dried glue there it might help to spray a little water first. What kind of glue did you use? Might have to glass the outside of it.

I'm lost I never said I was trying to get louder! Just trying to maximize what I have. You are killing your tweeters because its not loud enough. Otherwise just turn the volume down a little.honestly don't understand your logic here. Everything is set flat no eq boost at all head until clip free at 40 out of 40 volume, I set made 39 my max, gain set with Sq track on the dd1. Steve himself has said once set you can go to your max volume trouble free. I would agree with you if I set using-10db it's to much. Amp is rated 120 Watts x 2 @ 4-Ohms so power should be a good match. I understand that you are trying to maximize what you have. You have found the maximum. The dd1 is just setting up a base line or the reference to adjust the gain cleanly on a test track playing a constant tone at a specific frequency. This is not music. Music is a ton of different frequencies all up and down all at the same time. It is possible to have musical transients that have higher output than the rest of the musical average. It is also possible to have songs recorded at different levels causing more or less output from the amp. There are so many variables that cannot be accounted for when setting up with the dd1. If -5db is too much then use 0db. Or just turn the volume down a little when it does this. It is up to the operator of the volume control to know what they are doing to keep their gear safe.

I'm lost I never said I was trying to get louder! Just trying to maximize what I have. You are killing your tweeters because its not loud enough. Otherwise just turn the volume down a little.

If you want to be louder, you could add another set of tweets and mids.

Well, that tweeter attenuation is to balance the sound between the tweeter and mid. Not necessarily to keep the tweeter alive.

If your tweeters are cutting out then you are kicking their butt. The dd1 is just a reference. Different songs can be recorded at different levels and different sources can have a different level too. Ultimately it is up to the operator of the volume control.

If the package was damaged to that extent then you should have refused it and filed a claim with the carrier.

As long as you keep the cross over point reasonable, you shouldn't need it.