raytard

I had some old ass logitech usb phones. Got em at bestbuy for 40 bux and they lasted for friggin ever. But I'm usually using the surround sound because I only play on console's and who the hell sits in their living room with headphones on? not to mention the fact that all games are in surround sound nowadays and its super ill to hear footsteps coming from the right place, surround sound makes you such a better player

monoblock one block break out the dictionary you have one block, not two (although you may have one block with two holes, just like I have one head with two ears) so, if you throw two + and two -, each of which has a 1 ohm load attached to it, into the amp, it is effectively a .5 ohm load. its like getting two wet willies at once, its still not one wet willy...No matter what kind of screwed up math you're using I know you cant put 1 and 1 together and get 1 ( i mean, unless you're using multiplication and square roots, but come on, we're way off track now) leave it at 2 ohms, or buy the correct equipment instead of the cheapest

for starters, take physics in highschool. they teach you all of this in detail, fo freeeeeeeeee if you didnt do that, go to www.bcae1.com and teach yourself moral of the story is no, go learn ohm's law and you'll realize that what you described will give a .5ohm load (two 1ohm loads in parallel is .5 ohm) this stuff is ridiculously simple, its barely even 4th grade math. I'm 100% sure I learned multiplicitive inverses and adding fractions in 4th grade and that's literally all you need to do this yourself. not even joking, pre-teens do this without thinking.

i tried that when i had my wall, stripped more than half the screws out. since it was cabinet screws into 3 layers of mdf, it couldnt be pried out. I have the legit craftsman kit for removing stuck screws, but because of how much i stripped them and how thick the wood was, they couldnt bite enough to pull em out. I ended up having to sit there for a good two hours drilling all the stripped heads off and then pulling the speakers off the little bits of stud...it sucked. just a word of warning

probably not. my old setup wasnt quite 150, but 147ish at <30hz worked great, but as soon as it rose a bit it definately wasnt as fun to watch. 50 hz is waaaay high

try a couple brands and see which one can be bent and not crack, spray it on tinfoil or something and bend it when it dries, if you can bend it way back and forth without cracking or peeling off it should be fine

most dampeners even say that they are a "mass added dampener" when you add mass to ANYTHING it lowers the resonant frequency. the objective in a car is to lower the frequency of a "rattle" to a "flex", in layman terms you're making it heavy enough that it resonates so low you can't hear it anymore problem is, you cant feasibly make a car stop resonating completely (well you can, check out alma gate's bronco as an example. not all of us can dump hundreds of pounds of concrete into our cars, but she did and it worked great) so what all us normal people do is something "good enough" the thing about the stuff you see on the market, like damplifier and dynamat, is that they use butyl to stick and conform and add mass, and an aluminum layer that also adds mass as well as a bit of ridgidity(and keeps all that sticky stuff where it should be) you can use bedliner, but make sure it stays elastic when it dries, if it doesn't there is a good chance it will chip off because the panels will still resonate.

dirpy.com making your own word for a new product is such a clutch idea. Dirpy=best youtube downloader.

write a program that allows us to tune a 360.2 from a laptop, the afaik you can only do it from a palm/windowsmobile device, laptops with bluetooth dongles dont work =/

oh holy fuck is that the shaker 500!?!?!?! Isn't that like the 3rd best system offered from the factory by Ford? I cant believe you survived the ride home listening to that, you must not have turned it up. I heard that thing has 500 watts max in it, thats almost a million. Did you get it metered yet? I bet that shit will break the mic.

not very loud is the moral of the story man up i can fart louder than your average kicker comp setup

things I need(not audio): HID's bluetooth(with audio streaming)/nav/ipod/7+band eq in radio things that impress me: high end audio processor/eq (audiocontrol dqs, audison processor, rockford 360, etc)-if used correctly custom big screen carputers innovative and well done custom work, even if its something simple, like running wires inside amps so no wires show, or just a cool way to do something simple, like an amp on the roof, or a handmade backlit pretty panel that is well done, or wheel well led's isntead of an under body kit shit done right-panel gaps are tight, boxes the right size and tuning, things installed level, glass work is smooth, etc. i.e. saw the rockford demo suzuki, they did door pods for 2 of the power mids. ran no grills and sunk the speaker, and its crazy shape, in and smooth and damn near perfect. No gaps, no pussying out with a circle jig, someone spent crazy time getting 4 of these things right and then wrapping them. things that dont impress me/should not be in a car: cheap eq's (mmats, clarion, qupix, pyle, power akustik...) prefab boxes neon/led lights i can see...the glow is cool, the 14 inch tube that you double sided taped to the passenger airbag/window/roof/door/console is just bad(extra negatives for using "Stick and click"s off of tv...or if you dont even bother lining shit up or making it level) any sort of horn, short of like an ID in an sq car pa equipment in general, unless its done reaaaallllyyyy well 7 million low quality screens that all play the same grainy video with noise lines in it

get the type r its cheaper /story

traitor working on dynamic's van my vote is 8 or so 10's in there to go compete against all the guys running 18's but i def want to see what you're up to when i head back up there for school, astros are always sick

how many hours do you think you will invest? take that and multiply it by 20...or 50 if you're a shop and not just doing it cuz you know how to out of your garage.

oh damn, i just remembered you (rob) telling me about this and then forgetting about it and passing out somewhere. my bad if i looked like a dick drunkenly running through traffic to say hello, lol. so what were the results?

its an escalade, but we know how similar the engine bays are... i know you said you didnt want to do it that way, but its so damn easy and comes out clean.

my car i molded the door in glass, built a pod off of it, and then screwed it on from behind the door panel. simple, easy, and even after years of slammed doors and potholes, they are still on tight. if you're a bit more ambitious, you can mould onto the door, and then glass that part and wrap the entire thing for a seamless look. Much harder to do, to get right, and more money (more vinyl/glue/time/glass/resin) my pods basically used a gallon of resin between them, and idk how much glass cuz i just buy it by the yard from the local marine distributer on the cheap.

its not a sidekick, but avalons have a 4in stock, and i upgraded to 6.5 in comps in door pods (check my buildlog if you wanna see exactly how it was done. also, i had rockford 4's...so i'm coming from a very similar spot) 9000% better. 4's arent even an option IMHO. run 2 sets of rockford 6.5's and run em at 2ohm a channel on a beefy amp and you'll be a very happy person. and dont worry about facing them up or whatever. if you run comps put the tweets high. if you run coax, just fire them across. I angled my rear ones way up and it made almost no difference (besides looking doofy and killing legroom)the woofers can be mounted basically the same angle as the door and still sound great.

or you can do it my way, and just drill 2 holes the size of the speaker wire and run it straight out the box and to the amp...simple and effective.

batteries are deceptively simple to make... more plates=lower ESR and higher current abilities when used in conjunction with virgin lead and AGM, you get more current AND higher reserve. and thats it basically. theres no fine tuning, no exotic compounds or anything. Unless you want a carbon fiber case, or a lithium battery (big money), that about all you can do to improve a battery. Luckily, that means that a "discount" shuriken battery can perform damn close to the same level as a comprable size kinetik or xs power. At the end of the day, most companies take a core from hawker/enersys, throw it in a case, slap a sticker on it,, and sell it as their own. These cores arent made by powermaster or kinetik or whoever, theyre mass produced and then just stuck into cases. Moral of the story:they may not be exactly the same, but they will all be remarkably close. when people argue over xspower being better than kinetik, theyre talking about marginal differences.

who knows write a bunch of numbers on a wall and spit a nice fat loogie at it with your eyes closed. thats about how accurate a boomstick is. its like + or - 20db, lol.

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