Neo_frog

Have you tried calling ANY of them? They do have a business to run and have very little time to check posts on a forum, let alone e-mail potential non-buyers.

I gots me some SPL tiles holding mine together.

Holy shit I hate these know-it-all posters that claim they don't know it all, but refute all advice that's given to them. You say you've been doing walls for three years...yet you have somebody else tune your ports...and you're not sure how to orient three subs...and you can barely keep up with the other posters... Good luck with your build mang.

There's a few things you can do, but I'm going to tell you know, that unless your HIT training, you're pissing all your money away. There's some cups from GNC you can buy that have motorized fin mixers on the cap and it's dishwasher safe. There's also cups you can buy that have the mixing ball inside. They work well too.

In Flames - Jotun Lacuna Coil - Falling Again Nightwish - Over the Hills / Deep Silent Complete / Crownless / tons more... Within Temptation - Somewhere / Ice Queen / Angles / tons more... Sonata Arctica - Full Moon / Shamandalie Symphony X - Candlelight Fantasia Luca Turilli - Legend of Steel just to name a few... I have about 120 songs that I just get extremely nostalgic with and I consider my favorite. None of which are rap.

This really has me confused and makes no sense. As soon as a wave is created, it immediately starts losing energy in the form of sympathetic vibration of body panels and friction of air molecules. It doesn't mature necessarily, but depreciates due to loss of energy. The only "maturing" a wave does is die as soon as it's created. People mistake the loading and allowance of expansion of the wave with maturing. If you face the subs backwards, you will be increasing the effective length of the port which will cause the enclosure to "seem" to play lower causing more vibration and seemingly play louder. Opening your trunk with the subs facing backwards wouldn't make anything louder because you'd have no return and nothing to load off of. Tuning lower and facing subs into the cab would give you the same results, only louder. What would change is your response. It would yield higher frequencies much better since you wouldn't be loading off the rear of the car.

They changed their name to honor the city they were manufactured in back then.

Memphis Car Audio was founded in Memphis, Tennessee in 1964. Parts are manufactured in Korea, China, and California.

BJD3, I can't see pics at work, but I got your question. Give me the numbers from the box on here or your max dimensions and I'll shoot you a design on the other site.

I posted that shit a while ago on FB. It's a great song. And yes, guys are doing that shit too now and it's soooo ghey.

Neuropathy is terrible and I hope that shit doesn't keep up for you.

Blackberry fail.

I've been trying to get a hold of him for pricing but he hasn't responded. =(

Fusing is always a good thing. You should up the ampacity of your blocks though. 100A is not enough. 250-300A will do fine and protect the wire. I got eight runs of 1/0, eight amps, two alts, ten batteries....and 0 fuses lol.

I've been hit with this type of scam about a hundred times. People claiming they are in another country and wanting me to send it before payment, and this check bullshit as well, plus some others. If it's not 100% the way it's supposed to be, reply with a polite "go fuck yourself" and go about your day.

So I brought the TL out to work to do some testing. These scores are extremely odd. NOTE: This is plug and chug. No tuning or seal from front to back. Amps are gain matched from last tuned install... I'm flexing a LOT in rear doors and back hatch. Sealed: 149.7 @ 32hZ Driver Door open: 153.6 @ 37hZ Kick: 153.6 @ 36hZ Sealed on music: 153.8 peak? EDIT: Music stays above 152 the entire time on Decaf's version of "Go Ham" I didn't try door open on music due to batteries needing a charge and ppl complaining. So now I have no idea what's going on. I used both 0dB and -3dB tones coming out with very similar results. But my music score is way higher? I was thinking voltage drop, but at the amps on a burp I drop to 12.6 and on music 12.4 or less if it goes too long. Can anybody explain this? My LVL5s were doing 151 on music, but didn't flex the roof. This one bows my windshield so bad I'm considering a stripper pole. I have no idea wtf

Yeah my wife drives that half-car. I'd say build it small, with a small port and add more power. You will probably have to angle the box because of that damn back seat, and it's going to mess up your acoustics. I don't know how the hell you plan on adding batteries on top of all of it. I would give you some more pointers, but my wife will not let me touch the car lol.

I made the port smaller to achieve Helmholtz resonance (once again, experimental). The volume of air inside the port against the internal airspace would theoretically achieve this in a practical application. This is another reason I adjusted the baffles in the design to match everything up with my projected scenario, but I wasn't going to mention anything about it in case I screwed it up lol. Maybe it is the delay that's creating compliance.. I was really hesitant to try this because an oscillator would have an outside force acting on a set volume both inside the system AND the opening. Every time the subs move, this changes the internal volume and would affect the pressures inversely since the port is inside the horn. But maybe since the angles are loose, it's not actually resonating like I am thinking... I think I'm a bit over my head on this one lol. Hopefully this discussion continues though.

Bump for more info

You post worthless information. Every single time.

See, I was going to attempt a cross-sectional area ratio like that, but the port threw that off. That's why my taper is a little looser. I have the port area close to one sub Sd while the whole back face is about 5 subs total. The opening was adjusted to drop my internal airspace and meet my tuning/handling goals. I didn't even think about the area of the opening. I was going for volume matching to attempt a resonating effect. At this point, sealing it off or attempting a port adjustment would be difficult. I know there is some minimal cancellation, but I don't understand how the incredible amount of cabin compression happens. The behavior of air is way different than I've felt in the past. I can't do a can trick like my last wall, but it gags me and destroys my door guts. And it's the first system that is bowing my windshield so bad that I've considered reinforcement.

So you all know my design I've been using. The subs are in and the system is operational. It is by far the loudest I've had, and the last one was hitting a 154 on a burp. I haven't metered it or anything so don't ask about it just yet. I built it to have 1 ft³ per sub, and 5.9 in² of port per cube for control. The baffles are at 14° with a 7" separation in the back. Port is tuned to 34.7hZ. This gives me close to 12 ft³ inside the clam as well for a reference. I figured matching the air space would play a role in the response of the horn. Now here's what I don't understand. Since the port would technically cancel the subs movement with inverse compression, why is it MUCH louder? Or is it that the port creates a compliance effect? I even play flat from 25-40hZ before it drops off. And my subs don't get hot, and won't bottom out. I've tried. Even with the doors open, the subs continue to act like they are in their own environment independent of the car. (Thanks to Boon for that recommendation) This probably means I have a lot of scalability for power...

He's asking if you dropped full power on them fresh out of recone, but after it sets up, full power shouldn't be a problem.