SmallTruk

Still got this issue insolvent. IMO if the remote knob on the SAZ is for gain then it shouldn't affect the crossover point at all. If I set the gains with the DD-1 with the remote knob at halfway then follow with the crossover with the CC-1 and get it calibrated. Then if the knob is turned down at all and I go through the process all over with the CC-1, the final position of the crossover knob will be different. Any ideas?

Can't say I ever have...

unless you got small kids that are flush happy with their toys or you're non stop with anal sex and basically shitting logs as a result, i really can't see any real benefit to this over a regular toilet

Glass cleaner won't strip the polish?

I just use the HPF. With both the Seleniums and Crescendos I have them crossed over at 65hz then tweets at 3k

Better to just order from wcca. Ordering through amazon just adds a middle man

Yup. You post a request in the name change request thread...

Bad RCA's, RCA's too close to power wires, or bad ground on HU Those are what come to mind first based on what you said.

True. But honestly when it comes to most of the stuff we buy to support this hobby it's money down the drain as soon as we buy it. But unless you have something really rare and you know selling the alt later would be impossible, I'd just buy it. I got one built for my Honda earlier this year even though I know the odds of someone needing a HO alt for a Honda Pilot, Odyssey or Ridgeline are slim lol.

Fixed so he don't fry shit. But the fan won't do much if there is no cool air being supplied to the area. All the fan will do is blow the hot air around once the amp gets warm and the rear is closed up. Just run some kinda flex hose from a rear AC vent and have it be dedicated to cooling the amp.

The mileage of the car shouldn't make any difference. If you're building the system in it then you obviously plan to keep it for some time longer. My van had 120k when I put the alt in. $400 for an alt is better than the money you'd spend to fix fried amps.

Hope he had fun. I woulda been bored lol

I also had one that was DOA. But I have 2 others that have been going 2+ years perfectly. I didn't know Steve had one in the works, cool

I wash em with the rest of my work clothes in hot water. No socks or undies are washed with that stuff either, better safe than sorry....and itchy.

I apologize for the video being short. I hooked it up to the mids just to test it out. Isn't set yet and it'll be connected to the sub output when I do set it. I gotta say that even with 2 layers of mirror tint on the plexi this thing is still rediculously bright. Friend took the vid from behind me as I drove...

X2 bro. The DD-1 and CC-1 are some of the best investments I've ever made as far as car audio goes. A small price to pay for something that can potentially save you thousands by not having things set properly.

Uh.....what.... uh whats not to understand? he can go pickup some capacitors and put them inline on the tweeter leads, essentially making a passive crossover. all he needs to do it figure out what ones to get depending on the freq he wants them to cut off from

if you're only gonna run the tweeters off the deck then just go to radio shack and get some capacitors to put inline

i don't remember off hand what i had them set at. I'm running active so the crossover i use is on the amp and not a stand alone passive set. but it wasn't about what crossover point the tweeters liked best, it was what my ears liked best.

I honestly can't say. You'd have to experiment with it because its gonna vary with the lighting you use and the paint you have in the box. With this my goal was to give the illusion at a glance that the mirror was there like stock but will show the LEDs when on.

All depends how many layers of tint you use. I just did my rear view mirror with two layers of 50% on plexi with the vu-din behind it. now that sounds sick dude id love to see pics and a vid or something of that Two layers of 50% tint from O'Reilly on clear plexi... I'll make a vid this weekend when I actually install it.

All depends how many layers of tint you use. I just did my rear view mirror with two layers of 50% on plexi with the vu-din behind it.

I have no personal experience with mirrored plexi but I have used mirror automotive tint on clear plexi a few times and it worked good. Depending on price that might be an option for you. The tint film also serves as a scratch protectant for the plexiglass

Thanks guys! I'll get up a vid as soon as I get it in. It looks good in the kitchen but once installed ill know for sure how visible it is. I had the 1/8" plexi leftover from something else, tint cost me $17 for the roll at O'Reilly. Switch was $4 at Radio Shack. Asthetically it wouldnt be my first pick but it was the smallest push on/off I could find locally. So it cost me the price of the unit, sacrificing of a perfectly good mirror, $21 in parts (plus maybe $10 worth of plexi...?) and an hour of work. It'll be weird to have the mirror up again, it hasn't been there in at least 3 years... what style mirror is that? what car is it from? im waiting for the green to come out then maybe ill rehang my mirror, they always seem to break Its plexi that I tinted with mirror style automotive tint from O'Reilly. Mirror is from my Honda Odyssey. I actually had to search for the mirror, it was outa the van for a few years already. With the bass it would either face down or just fall off completely. Hopefully with the epoxy it'll stay in place.

Just put a thin coat of dielectric grease over them. Seems like it would be way more work than its worth to silver plate them, plus silver will still tarnish.