HHR Ed

[/img] http://i131.photobuc...cearthquake.jpg Dont know if you can read it but basically I explain how the RFt15k works to my understanding with time as a factor and then explained that I do know the Earthquake amps do not have that design. I then explained that in the vid he mentions it will consume 1w and then output ALMOST 1w. Which means less than 100% So his statement about 100% efficiency and No heat was just exaggeration to make a point that they are very efficient and run cool. Obviously 100% efficiency is impossible and he just mispoke. And Earthquake is a decent brand, the old PHD2 amps were beasts

Sure you can do it. Car speakers and home speaker to differ, and some home speakers are of better quality in large environments with an enclosure attached, but car speakers can do well.

HULK SMASH SPL Meter!

Has to do with the geometry of the woofer design and how all the parts work together. For instance, you may have a 200w rms woofer with a single slug. This is because at 200w, the woofer will only move a small amount. So adding more slugs would be a waste of money. A larger woofer that handles 1500w rms can have 2 or 3 slugs. This depends on how thick the top plate is and how tall the coil is. Also what design are they using. A SQ woofer will be underhung with a short coil and does not need as much depth in the gap as a SPL or ground pounding woofer. So woofers also use a bump in the backplate to add depth. Sometimes though, another slug is added to increase motor strength but this has shown to not help much. A good top plate and pole piece design can be the most effective when coming down to motor strength.

plexi mirror will not break unless you hit it with a blunt object or something like that. And even then, it does not shatter. You can also cut it with a razor knife if its thin enough, or a jig saw, or even drill through it if you have to.

Amplifiers have an output impedance which will controls the voltage drop on the voice coils. To have a flat voltage, this output impedance must be low. The lower, the better. This is often called "Damping Factor" I believe the RF CP has a firmware which controls a dynamic output impedance and can adjust output current in real time.

thanks guys.

Thanks guys. I didnt really go into full explanation on how various enclosure characteristics effect impedance. There wasnt much time for it and as you can tell, I mentioned that for daily music, its not important to know most of the time.

I laid out my thoughts on it in the vid. Does anyone have anything to add or subtract to the subject?

I store my batteries upside down on a metal table.

D series has what is known as "Starting Plates" Meaning they can give high current in short time. The XP series has a large amount of lead but not starting plates, so it should not be used under the hood but can give long reserve. The D series still has a great reserve capacity and is still great for daily systems and supplemental batteries. The XP though is slightly less money and can get you a small percentage more reserve.

If you are asking that, building a woofer would be quite difficult for you. Woofers, well good woofers, are carefully designed to have parts that compliment eachother and fit together with the proper clearances and tolerances. You can buy parts from fixmyspeaker.com but I would suggest first getting a cheaper woofer, cut it apart and buy a drop in recone and recone it according to a step by step instructions.

depends on your tastes. A lot of guys like the bed liner look, and it seals very well. Or you can use a bit of body filler to smooth it up and paint it. Or you can wrap in vinyl. Probably the easiest is bedliner.

do you mean the outside for aesthetics? Or do you mean to seal is from leaks?

yes it is hard to get to, seems like you couldnt get to it and a ton of stuff has to be taken apart and that requires labor, which incurs labor charges. Thats just how things work man. My labor rate was $65 per hour, and That job could take over an hour.

Got 270a for $440 or 320a for $540 Mechman

stop emailing the guy back

What you should do, is run a nice AGM batt up front like an XS D1200 and a small supplemental in the back like a XP750. That will be good for 3500w systems. Or you can go to a XP950 or larger or add more later. But that setup, with the 220a alternator would run very nice with 0awg wire all around. And can be had for your budget of $800

Looks like I got a 220a for that truck for 5 beans. And yes, the largest you can get but it also depends on your batteries. The alt and batts work together. The more power you want, the more batts you need, the more batts you have, the larger the alt that you need.

Unless there is additional steel used to thicken it or strengthen it, it will be OK. Of course in SS classes it wouldnt matter anyway. But for lower classes, If the steel is the same as it was before, go for it.

PMd you about a Skar amp