kickass audio

All you do is kinda make like a flush mount for it so you will need to double up the side you wish to put the port on so that one part of it will always be installed and house the t-nuts you secure the port to when installed. Its kinda hard to explain but basically make the port how you want for the width, depth, height, etc and then you secure that to a board that is the size of the flush mount you made on the box and thread it in. Think of it like this. For the part you brace the port to, that extra area on the box that is recessed needs to be occupied by the outer part of the port so that it is pretty much all one piece. If you look up RAM Designs on Facebook you can see some designs he made with removable ports and see how they all have like a ledge on them that is where it fits in the recessed area of your box and bolts in. edit: here is one pic off his fb page he has: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=349269555094920&set=a.211000055588538.52999.210979035590640&type=3&theater You can see the recessed area where the port sits in and gets bolted down.

Thats about what i get when im using my dads. Ill take it. Idk if you want to send me the request for money or for me to send the money to you but my paypal is [email protected] If you are sending the payment request just let me know what your first name will show as (if its not jeff like your name on here shows lol) and ill get it to you. Thank You!!

Hey man, i am very interested in that camera. How is the battery life on it? Are the two batteries extended life or normal battery life? I cant quite see from the reflection but what size card is that? My dad has an evolt e-300 and that is a nice SLR camera but yours would be perfect for my needs in a SLR camera. Please let me know!! Thank you.

No problem man. If you do decide to re-wire you keep everything how it is but for the trigger wire on the relay just wire that to a switch that is connected direct to the positive of your battery terminal. I didnt try it with mine so i dont know if that would correct it but i tried everything to troubleshoot mine but that. New relays, new bulbs, new ballasts, everything and nothing worked. Also for my DRL where they are supposed to buzz when they are on but i never ran into that problem. The only time i had that was when i unlock my truck at night after i just shut it off. The relay for the alarm doesnt provide enough current to fully energize my hid ballasts so one of the relays will buzz to all hell before it just shuts off from timing itself off. Like i said i only had that problem if it was really cold outside like less than 20 degrees farenheit outside. Once they were hot and warmed up id have 0 issues turning them off and firing them back up again.

I have that in the winter time when i ran my 50w ballasts for the low beams but only because my voltage was up in the 15's. If i shut my truck down the voltage would drop and the lights worked just fine. I tried the capacitor mod for the DRL circuit with no success and i have had 4 different relays for the truck too with nothing. When i went back to my 35w ballasts it rarely happened and when it did i just turned my knob to the off position, waited a minute and fired the lights back up and both kicked on. That only happened with my low beams though, never with my fogs. I was about to just bypass the stock switching system and run my own toggle switches but never did that as i didnt think they provided enough voltage to energize the circuits and fully activate the relays.

They wont melt your housing as long as they arent super close to the reflector or lens itself. I have projectors on my truck and was for a few months running them at 50w and the projector is so close to my lens that it melted them and made a bubble in the clear lens but never broke through or cracked it. The brightness is pretty noticable between 35w and 50w but i wouldnt do 50w for your low beams, id do 50w for the high beams and maybe fogs if you use them ONLY in fog. I have my low beams in my headlights installed in futurevision HID projectors (installing hid's in a stock housing is just retarded and will scatter and look like shit) and my fog lights are in the stock housing because i couldnt get them uninstalled to retrofit them but they are both 35w bulbs and 35w ballasts. My high beams are in the stock reflector housing since they are rarely ever used as my hid's by themselves shine for 3-4 blocks and they are 35w bulbs and are ran off a 50w ballast. Dont do this all the time because that increase in power will kill the lifespan of your hid bulb. Also the biggest thing to worry about with hid's is melting your stock wire harness. Get a relay kit for EVERY ballast you run as to not melt your stock wiring since hid's draw a ton of power to kick on but once they are lit they dont draw much.

It seems you may have the dimmer switch connected to the radios speaker terminals. Iirc the line you need to have completely disconnected is orange with a white stripe in it. It is for the dimming feature.

Do you hear the motor for the window clicking when you press the button? My 04 envoy has like a safety switch where if i hold the button for too long it will disengage the motor so you cant burn it out and the clicking will just be for each little relay built into the switch for the doors. My two front windows which are automatic for going down will cease to have the automatic function if i hold the buttons too long and that safety shut off turns on. To fix that i just have to disconnect both the front door unlock/lock and window control panels, wait a minute, reinstall them. The rear windows i never have a problem with, just gotta wait a min and they fire back up just fine. Id try disconnecting both window switches completely and wait a minute or two before reinstalling them. Also for how weird they are, you NEED ALL the switches installed properly and hooked up or the window will not move. I had it where the driver side module was plugged in and working but my passenger door was torn apart and the switch panel for that side wasnt hooked up. Without it being hooked up i couldnt move the window up or down or lock/unlock that door or move the power mirrors. Those damn panels complete the entire circuit for that shit. Youre problem sounds just like what i had when i tore my doors all apart to put the new mids into them. My locks wouldnt work and the windows didnt move which i was really screwed to fix fast because it rained the same night i put the speakers in lol. I just turned the key off, pulled my key out, kept my driver side door open so that any of those RAP powered devices like your windows would be killed, fully disconnected every window switch panel from every door, waited a few minutes, reconnected it in the order of drivers side front door>passenger side front door>rear driver side>rear passenger side. It all worked like a charm after that.

Sounds to me that the drive itself is defective. Do you hear any intermittent clicking noises from your external hard drive when you turn it on? Any grinding or buzzing? That windows sound will play whether the drive is good or not because its just recognizing the storage controller that is built into the external hard drives case itself. I had 3 drives do the same thing and fail different ways. If you cant hear the external hard drive spin up you could with knowledge take the case apart and then CAREFULLY tap the side of the drive right on its side and it may free the arm up if thats stuck. It could also be a stuck spindle which those are a pain to fix sometimes. In all honesty fixing them is a pain and usually you can only fix it enough to get your content off of it and then it will fail again soon down the line. If you want to, get the drive in a quiet area and mute your sounds on windows and power up the drive. Make a video of it from the moment you plug the drive into the power outlet and then connect it to your computer. I can tell you the sound it is making to see whats wrong with your drive.

Its the same thing essentially that i did with setting my 3sixty.2 up with my dd-1 and cc-1. I first adjusted the gains so that every channel was clean on the dd-1 and then i had went to the cc-1 and set each channel that way. What i myself did was detect the distortion through every rca and amp output on my system. After that was all nice and clean i then took my cc-1 and hooked it up to just my amps one channel at a time. do NOT hook it to your headunits rca's because the output voltage is too low for the cc-1 to detect and be able to utilize. Make sure your x-over settings are turned completely off as before when you were detecting distortion and setting the gains and that the eq is on flat. Then i went to the amps and set them to fullpass, if you dont have fullpass set the lowpass all the way up and the subsonic/infrasonic all the way down. Then you will play the x-over freq you want to set your amps at and more than likely you will have too much power for the cc-1 as you will see with that red signal light so do NOT back down the gain on your amp, just turn the volume of the headunit down until it goes green. Then press the read on your cc-1 and go to your headunit and set the x-over until the cc-1 shows its a match. Once you have the headunit matched go to your amps and set the x-over on them just far enough so that the light will change to tell you if you went too far and go back until its calibrated. Thats all there is to it. It sounds like a lot but the first time you do it you will be amazed at how simple and easy it really is. One little tip that i ran into with my 3sixty.2 that im not sure you may encounter or not but the x-over settings on my 3sixty.2 did not conform to what the cc-1 wanted to calibrate to. So what i did to get around that was set the 3sixty's x-over to the point where the ^ arrow was illuminated and then i went to the amps x-over settings and turned them up just a bit until it went to "calibrated". You may not have that but im not sure and just thought id share that with you. If you get stuck give me a holler.

What you can also do to really double and triple check your work is to get a digital multi meter and put one probe on the ring terminal and the other probe at the end of that cable run and test resistance (note: do not test resistance through a fuse block, they tend to skew results from what ive experienced) and it shouldnt read anything more than .01 ohms. Remember that if the meter isnt high quality to first touch the two probes of the DMM together to get the resistance reading of the meter when its resting then subtract that from the reading you get when reading the cable from one end to the other. But it looks like you got it right.

It looks pretty good to me. One personal preference i like to do is like when i solder copper piping for a house. I take those little metal brushes to the inside of the ring terminal and scuff them up a bit then i do it to the little joint around the part where the wire gets inserted. I then put a good amount of flux on the wire and insert it into the ring terminal. Just because some of my wires are a little smaller than the ring i like to crimp them into a bench vice (not a great crimp) but then i get out the torch and solder the hell out of them. I have never had a wire with more than .01 ohms of resistance from doing it this way or had one break apart from hanging crap off it lol. Just a tip if you ever encounter it. If you have solder that is not like a shiny/mirror finish then you need to apply the heat more to the wire. This is a cold solder connection and has high resistance in the connection and poor quality and strength. But anyways that connection looks solid. Good job!!

It should be the same as if you sold it in your state. I personally make up an agreement form when i sell anything high in value like a vehicle that says that the buyer agrees to paying XXXXX for the (model car) with (odometer reading) miles and is being sold as is with no implied warranties. I sold my old car and my sisters old car that way and the idiot that bought it tried coming after me and my dad saying there was a problem with the brakes when we test drove it around the block and on the thruway the same day they went and bought it from me and my dad. By them signing that agreement if they decided to take me to court for the car having problems i have them by the balls with them signing the agreement. I was also an asshole and they paid me all in cash and the guy pulled money out from 4 different pockets on his jeans and i took my counterfeit pen and checked every single bill right infront of him and his dad. lol. Its the same no matter where you are, the buyer has the responsibility to get it registered, insured, inspected, pay the taxes, etc. That is not at all your problem. Like with my car i had it sitting next door in my neighbors driveway for a few weeks until it was sold and i took my licence plates i kept the same and photocopied them and put a copy of it in a plastic sleeve and screwed it to my back bumper because it is against the law in NY to have a vehicle visible that does not have valid licence plates. When i sold the car the guy who bought it wanted me to keep my plate on there just so he could drive it home which was 10 miles away but i said hell no, its my plate and my ass that will get in deep shit if you do something with it.

Im with kranny, unless you are a REAL GOOD computer tech or knowledgeable id NEVER mess with regedit. One wrong move and your computer is toast after a reboot. Dont play around in there unless you have your stuff backed up well and know what youre doing and are expecting of doing something wrong and killing it and know how to reverse it. Regedit is not for the daily user to play with.

Oh OP i forgot to mention, updating the drivers for EVERYTHING you can helps immensely. Id update your video, bios, etc. and any firmware associated with the other hardware on it too. sometimes the manufacturers put updates in there that help enhance them and speed them up. Also sometimes within the BIOS you can adjust the hard drive performance by either being quiet or on performance and adjust the AGP video size, i usually put that up as high as it can go as long as im not using a big amount of my systems ram. Other than that its pretty much the end for what you can do other than buying faster components which honestly id save your money and get a new system before pouring it into an old computer that age.

Im with what other people posted. Ive been a computer tech since i was 10 and im now about to be 21 so i have a good amount of experience messing around with both hardware and software. For hardware speeds you cant get it to compete with the speeds of todays computers however you can totally make it run a lot better to the speed like the computer had the first day it was purchased. I always go into msconfig and disable everything that isnt necessary such as itunes, quicktime, automatic update checking programs, adobe reader, skype, etc. and then i go into the services and uncheck the ones that dont need to be run such as the windows error event log, parental controls, etc. I have probably 25-30 services disabled. Another good thing i do is go into control panel>administrative tools>computer management and expand the field for "disk drives" then right click on your hard drive and select properties. Once in there look at the tab labeled "policies" and check both boxes for the write caching. I also run a disk cleanup and personally clean up everything but the internet files unless it is really large such as over 200mb. One major thing you can do for yourself is set windows to manually update so that YOU have to update it yourself. That way every time you bootup and login, windows wont rush and check for updates. Its one less thing you have going on behind the scenes. And i also would strongly recommend you right click on the "my computer" icon and select properties. There is a option for a tab labeled "advanced" i go under the settings area for performance and disable the stupid animations that make windows all pretty and run slow as fuck. Then i go to the advanced tab under the performance options and set the processor scheduling and memory scheduling to programs and click on "change" for under virtual memory and set the size to at least the same size of physical ram you have in your computer. I strongly advise against letting windows manage your memory as it will run slow when it reaches the limit it finds suitable and then take time for it to expand your virtual ram which is housed on your hard drive and get back up to speed. Also as one last little tip to tell you is that for most computers i work on that are slow i run the program called combofix. That is great for finding stupid web browsing issues and viruses and cleaning them up nicely. I usually run that last after everything else seems to fail for the speed improving.

Id hit up mechman for it. I have a 270 from him in my envoy and it runs great for the abuse i give it lol. What was awesome about matt is that my alt was for a 3.8l V6 in my 98 oldsmobile 88. I had a 250 alt from him in there but the alt came damaged and would work fine for the first day but the second day it got super loud and wouldnt charge over 1500rpm so i sent it in to get looked at. Well after he looked at it i decided that the car wasnt worth anymore money so i got rid of it and bought my envoy. I told matt to hold off on the repair of the alt as i would be getting another vehicle and he did. Then i told him i got my envoy and he told me that he has one sitting on the shelf and to pay $50 for the upgrade and it would be on its way. So my story aside just get the alt and you can always send it back to the company you got it from (if they are like mechman) and tell them you got another car and want to switch the case to make it fit on that new vehicle if possible. Sometimes it isnt possible like with my vehicle swap but for $50 it was worth it instead of spending another $400 for the second alternator.

Congratulations man!! That is quite an accomplishment to achieve and set for yourself. Great job and keep it up!!

Id go with direct leads if i was in your position but #1 is easiest. Let me know how it turns out

That seems really short for tinsel leads, not sure if its the pic or what but the leads should extend over the outer lip of the spider landing. You have 3 ways to fix this. 1.) Get the push terminals and get a metal tab that is fairly thick and wont bend easily and extend the tab over to the tinsel leads on your recone kit. Solder the wire to the tab and put some shrink wrap over the tab to help prevent the two terminals from shorting out (note: do NOT put shrink wrap over the whole tinsel lead, just where the solder joint and metal tab extending from the spring loaded terminal) 2.) Get some 12 gauge (thats what it looks like your tinsel lead wire is but double check) and solder that onto the tinsel lead end with some 60/40 rosin core solder. I strongly recommend you use solder flux with this to help make a strong connection. Then you can take the newly extended lead and solder it to the terminal and put some shrink wrap over the extended lead portion to protect it from shorting out. 3.) Get some heavy duty (depends on the power rating of your sub, 10 or 8 gauge wire is normally used) and make direct leads. If you can for where the current tinsel leads rest at drill a hole into the lip outside where the spider landing is and make it big enough to just slightly fit the power wire you want to use as the direct leads for your sub in with very little gap between the outer jacket of the wire and the basket itself. Then flux the wire and tinsel and solder it together. Place shrink wrap over the joint you soldered and then push the wire up through the holes you drilled just a bit to give the tinsel leads slack when the sub starts to move. Then take some CA glue and put that around the area where the outer jacket of the direct lead is and the basket and give it a shot of accelerator. Those are pretty much your only options. Dont do the direct leads by just soldering them onto the tinsel leads because if you do that you will guaranteed short the leads out if not rip the leads from the subwoofer itself because of the tension it will encounter.

Dont get a 2 way switch for that though unless you want to have 2 switches mounted which i think is kinda dumb when you can get one switch with 3 positions and be done with it. Like i would make it so that if the switch is all the way down that it is off, if its in the middle it is at low and if its all the way up it is on high. If you get a 2 way switch you only have one setting, on and off. A 3 way switch will allow you to pick which relay you energize, the high or low speed relay IF you get fans with 3 wires. If you want a fan where you can control the speed with like high or low do this: Buy as many 3 wire fans as you need, buy two relays (wont really need more than a 10-15 amp relay for fans), buy some remote wire so you can hook it all up, buy a single 3-way toggle switch. If you want a fan where it is just one speed, on and off do this: Buy as many 2 wire fans as you need, buy one relay (wont really need more than a 10-15 amp relay for fans), buy some remote wire to hook it all up, buy a single 2 position toggle switch.

I hear ya on the airflow. Amps can get nice and toasty if they cant breathe. You can do the relay work yourself. This is exactly what you will be doing with the fan setup you are going after: http://www.the12volt.com/relays/relaydiagram25.html All you will do is place a simple 3 way switch (if you are getting a fan that is dual speed) on the remote wire going to pin 86 of both the relays and then you will be able to turn the fans on and off yourself and adjust the speed of the fans with a flip of the switch. If you want the fans to always be running when the system is on then just get a 2 way switch and make it so that one position will make the fans run at low speed and the other position will be full speed. Relays look hard but in all honesty they are super easy. I would do it with the supervision of your neighbor and get the experience from it. Ill admit the first time i wanted to do work with relays i was so confused with the diagrams but good relays have the pins labeled and are super easy to follow.

Do you know how to wire a relay? Not trying to bash you or anything just wanted to make sure. You would wire the relay like normal so that it has a live power and constant ground and then the switchable wire of the relay that tells it when to energize or de-energize the coil of the relay would go to a toggle switch for you. Then you can get a potentiometer like the one listed before for the light dimming or even fab one up by getting one at radioshack. I would think something like this would be PERFECT for you: http://www.radioshac...=Potentiometers You can make it so that when you push the button it will either energize the coil of the relay or disable it and then you can make it so that when you turn the knob whichever way you set it up that it will raise or lower the speed of your fan. Last thing you can do is like was mentioned earlier is get a fan that has 3 wires. The reason for the three wires is that one is a ground and one will be like half-speed and the other will be full speed. Lets say your fan has 4 brushes in it (i think they are called brushes but they are what sends the rotating electrical energy to spin the fan, if someone knows the name of it please chime in), the half power wire will only energize 2 of the 4 brushes thus holding back from full output. Now if you energize the full speed wire of the fan all 4 brushes will be activated and make it spin as fast as possible. The choice is yours for how you want to hook it up and run it but i really dont see much of a need to get the potentiometer involved in the mix. I would get a variable speed fan, 2 relays (one to wire up for half speed and another to wire up for full speed) and then get a 3 way momentary switch. The switch will be wired up so that one position will be off, another for half speed and another for full speed. It sounds complicated but its super easy to achieve what you want. Edit: im sorry for that variable speed part. Please forgive. Not too sure if you want a visual indicator to remind you that the fans are engaged or not but you can get a simple 2 way toggle switch with or without a light to tell you if its on or not. Just wire the relay up normal but for connector # 86 on the relay you will run constant power to this and then in the middle of that wire you will wire up your 2 way switch. I would recommend to use the remote output of your headunit or even an accessory wire on your vehicle that turns off when the key is removed just to help ensure you dont leave the fans running when you park your vehicle. If you keep it so that the wire 86 on the relay is an always live wire then you can take the chance to make it so that you forget to flip the switch when you get out of your car and keep the fans running. by using a wire that isnt always live (the acc wire for your radio for example) you can make it so that if the key is turned then you can engage or disengage the switch to power the fans however once the key is turned to off and removed your fans will be killed regardless of where you keep the switch.

even for a midrange that still seems high but whatever.

Thats very high for a midrange to play. I have 80Hz to 4000k playing through my mids and highpass at 4000k for the highs. Also you dont want the tweeters set with the dd-1 at the full gain position the dd-1 will show no distortion at. The tweeters will be overpowered most of the time unless you are using a small amp for your speakers but if you are using a large amp like i am for the mids and highs you will want to set the gain for the tweeters with the dd-1 first then play a song with a ton of treble to it and turn the gain down until the tweeters stop making like a hissing noise when cymbals are struck or anything high frequency like that. But your x-overs are setup completely wrong thats for sure.