skittlesRgood

http://www.woofersetc.com/p-6986-t15kw-rockford-fosgate-4-ch-15000-watt-hybrid-sqspl-amplifier.aspx of course some one will buy those. just because most of us cant afford something like that doesnt mean no one else can.

its real. want to see a $20k 4 channel?

Hahaha! 9,000+ grand..... 9,000 + grand = 10,000. you're welcome.

why dont you give some useful guidelines instead of leaving an impossible open ended question? im sure if i recommend you a $1000 comp set you will turn your nose up at it, even though you said "best" and gave no other guideline.

dont you just hook up a positive and negative wire to the corresponding points on the circuit board?

ya, nothing wrong with that. just look at the frequency response range of the neo-8 and the super tweeters. pro drivers are made to work as a midrange at the cost of midbass so they might not sound terrible. im personally not a fan of pro drivers so you might ignore my bias.

lol ya, the COPPER buss bar acts WAY different then the COPPER in the wire. Explain capacitance in a ac enviroment sir? The use buss bars in every panel I've seen to distribute power to breakers. I think buss bars for batterrys is cleaner looking more efficient and allows current to flow easier yes.as far as all metals conducting the same. Not even close. For example stainless and brass are low on the list. The least corrossive ones usually are. Stick with copper and aluminum. Or have some gold ones made up if your balling lol i dont understand the appeal to gold connectors. gold ranks under copper and silver ranks above copper. plus silver is cheaper. why dont we see silver plated connectors?

1st, an 8" midrange is... dumb. 8" midbass is great. the larger mass is just too hard to move 3000 times per second lol. its like trying to buy a 6" tweeter. your midrange will need to play up to the bottom end of your tweeters. so if your tweeters can play down to 4000hz, you want a midrange that can play over 4k. i say over because they will have roll off at the ends of their response range. second, im running my 100w 6.5" midrange speakers as midbasses on 500w each. im sure my speakers never see close to 500w after all the factors. so dont be too scared of a little power headroom. as long as you can be smart about it.

he did say they were measuring in the kick. keep that in mind.

it'll work, but it wont work as well as bigger wire can. if you have a dmm handy, measure the resistance from one end of the run to the other. a 30ft run of 18awg should read close to .2ohms. so just to think i got i got this right if its wired at 2ohms then the resistance would be 4.2ohms? if its close to the .2ohms of resistance yes, if you use all 30ft for one speaker but you would have to have a limo to need that much wire lol.

that is cool. ive got something to make square holes in wood and im going to drill and tap the ends on a square piece of copper and use that as a wire terminal in a box. instead of bolts.

it'll work, but it wont work as well as bigger wire can. if you have a dmm handy, measure the resistance from one end of the run to the other. a 30ft run of 18awg should read close to .2ohms.

nothing wrong with losing to a 155 lol. did she build it or pay for it?

Sweet! As for the other questions: yes, its to measure amplifier output. As for the clipping part, I'll probably just build a clipping indicator. I have an extra day to occupy my time... So it's the perfect chance to undergo a project hahaha, i like this guy. O-scope does not show distortion. So either way most likely he will have to buy an oscope or a dd-1, on top of a quality True RMS AC Current clamp meter, and a True RMS Digital multimeter. So a easy $600 in test equitement just to test something that a reputability company already knows and told you, and backed by many users real world clamp tests. But in the end, if you buy a legit amp, you can trust its ratings. no need to go thru all this to see what power your amp makes on a fixed resistance.. It will be very simular to the manufactures tests and ratings (as long as your not using sony, pyle jensen, pyrmid, power akoustik, ssl, etc, etc). dude. the average noob doesnt come up with something like this. it takes some brains to figure it out lol. im sure he knows he needs meters. and its hilarious that the oscope was the best thing you could get for setting gains until you all got sold on the dd-1 and think minor bits of distortion, that a decent oscope cant see, actually matters. please, i dont want to have that debate here lol. an oscope will work just fine for him. as to the reason why he's doing it. im sure its just to learn. some people just like to play with shit and see what happens. i applaud him for it.

yes the heating element should work fine. in fact when i first wanted to test an amp my dad, an electrical engineer, told me to do the same thing. you can put it in a bucket of water to keep it cool too. he can see if its clipping with an o-scope.

who the hell makes two runs of speaker wire? he doesnt have a high powered amp.

dude, if this wire is for the equipment in your sig your just wasting money on wire here. you could easily use 12awg for the subs and 16awg for the speakers. you dont have anything high powered. you dont need to use silver plated wire. the smaller wire will save you money and be a lot easier to work with. its up to you what you want to get. just lending you my experience.

DONT get that speaker wire in the link. its the biggest pain in the ass to work with. just get the regular speaker wire from KNU. and ya, you dont need 10awg wire for mids man. i have 14 or 16awg for 500w to my midbass speakers. plus, getting 10awg though the wire boot in the door would be damn near impossible for most cars.

its scary to go someplace where you dont know anyone, but i definitely recommend it. its a great growing experience. take advantage of the internet and coworkers to meet new people. i spent 3 months in nebraska and made a good deal of friends, even went on a couple dates. when i didnt have anything to do i just drove around and got to know the area. it was a lot of fun just seeing the different culture of another area. if you can really afford to do it, i say give it a try. if it doesnt work out, you can always move back.

gauge doesnt really matter. small solder for small wire/circuit boards. large solder for large wire. you can use small solder for large wire, you just have to feed a lot of it.

i use butt connectors the most often just because its quicker. but you do have the chance of over crimping or under crimping. remember when you solder to heat the wire until the solder melts against the wire. the wire should soak it up. putting a little solder on the iron first helps heat up the wire faster. and dont forget to put the heat shrink on before you solder lol.

x2 YES, ive always wanted one of those SSSOOOOOO bad. of course with gas prices now it must cost over $100 to fill up

ya, i just did a lot of looking around for wire. the closest quality product i could find was another $.60ish per foot for the CCA stuff. i think other companies have higher prices because they sell to dealers. just means more people need to make a profit.

I agree with this. He's talking bout me. I waited like a month to get one undamaged. At least I think it's me hes talking bout lol yep, thats you lol what size were they? my experience was with the 3100s. im sure a lighter battery would do a LOT better in the shipping system.