skittlesRgood

yes, its a little tight but knu wire will fit.

dont know if you already saw this but if not, you will like it. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/102661-a-tribute-to-my-grandfathers-skills-lots-of-pics/page__p__1424797__fromsearch__1#entry1424797

your HU's power wire goes to the fuse block. so taking away some resistance in that circuit will get a little more voltage to the HU. in my car, voltage got low enough at the fuse block that all the instruments on my dash reset. scary as hell when i was driving around and everything turns off. car still ran fine during the reset fortunately. soon as i added another + run to the fuse block, the problem went away. the symptom i experienced wont surface for most people but it shows that the car might be seeing more of a voltage drop than we realize.

there is a pretty good difference in price between the two. do you have a budget?

do the big 4. yes, i said 4. thats the big 3 with an added wire from battery to the fuse block. also get an extra battery or a bigger alt. its up to you. personally i would go with a bigger alt.

Sorry had to quote the local best buy saying it was the bass I've had a solo x do that after I got the re cone it stopped when I opened it I saw markings in the basket signifying that there was mechanical damage I know for sure It's not bottoming out. What should i do? Is it fixable? Is it worth it or is this thing a paper weight, I've never heard this particular clicking noise before 1. learn how to quote 2. if you dont know what you are talking about, dont give advice like you know what you are talking about.

you can get a recone for it. you cant just glue that sub back together though.

lol no its not. how can it be bottoming out when he is barely pushing on the cone? im not sure what what clicking is. closest thing i can think is a broken triple joint or ripped spider. oh, i didnt see you push the sub up too. definitely the spider or triple joint. that sub is busted.

you should find out if you fried your amp. get yourself a DMM, digital multi meter. learn how to use it. then connect the probes to the remote wire and the amp ground. see if you get voltage when the HU is on.

ya, your doing that completely wrong. 1st off, the stock gauge wont react to quick drops so its completely useless here. 2nd, charging voltage is also useless here. we only care about voltage drop when the system is at full tilt.

where were you measuring voltage? what meter were you using?

so you have horrible voltage drop and you just keep hammering on it? thats what it sounds like to me. shit breaks when you do that.

aw, look. its Mr.P when he was younger. how cute

for close to $100? ill take one.

x2

i dont think this will turn out very well. port area is pretty small. redesign.

slot ports are always easier to fit than aero ports. how much space from port to bottom of the box? how tall is your box? what size ports? what tuning?

in a bench test, the amp is on your work bench. usually hooked up to a nonreactive load. for clamping your amp you need what ricky said. just look up ohms law for the math equations.

be sure to vote "no" on the poll. i think i made a pretty nice comment for those guys.

In that case, probably 141.2 at 36hz with the passenger window down and mic at driver headrest. I play Lord of the rings and World of Warcraft, so I'm good with numbers. i don't... so I'm good with pussy. i couldnt pass it up.

roll your burps and imp rise will keep the amp out of protect. do you have the stock alt in still? if so, you do not have nearly enough electrical for .5ohm. definitely need to upgrade that 4awg to 1/0awg. i mean, why restrict current? 45* along every edge is not ideal. you want them in a way to shoot air out of the port, not just throw it around and keep it out of corners. some times 45*s hurt your score. and a 45* is not a brace. droping a class is up to you. NEVER just say "it's ok, trust me". i cant tell you how many times i have said that, or seen some one say that and they were VERY wrong. so measure the port and tell us the dimensions. if you're right, you're right. if you are wrong, we can catch it.

sounds like installer error to me x2

the positive and negative is a circuit. going directly to the battery terminal would be the shortest path. if you grounded to the chassis current would need to flow through the chassis and the battery ground wire. so just skip the middle man.

Have you tried this? Because that's exactly what a fuse is designed to protect against. So it would have to be really quick contact. quoted from bcae1.com Fuse Opening Time: A fuse does not blow when the current reaches its rated current. It is designed to pass its rated current without opening. A fuse will take varying times to blow under different conditions. A fuse will pass significantly more than its rated current for a very short time. It may take 10 minutes or more to blow a fuse at 25% over its rated current. The table below is an example of the specifications for a slow blow fuse. You can see that a 20 amp fuse may pass 40 amps of current for as long as 5 minutes before blowing although it probably wouldn't take a full 5 minutes to blow. The times for other fuses will be slightly different.

Thanks I didn't see that! Geez! I know what the specs are but everyone always talks about how nice these subs can handle extra power. Thanks for the advice guys. we talk about the XL and level 5 taking a lot more power. maybe the level 4 with level 5 parts. they all share the same coil. going down to a level 2, well thats a completely different sub and it isnt made to take abuse. its made to sound good. yes it's made well but its not an SPL sub and shouldn't be treated like one.