skittlesRgood

i just looked up that kinetik piece you linked and thats not a charger, its a power supply. you seem to have put "power supply" and "charger" into the same category in the OP. and it outputs 13.6v not the 14+ you care about for some reason. dont use a battery with that, or any, power supply. but yes, i would advise you get a power supply.

Been doing it for a year now...nothing has gone wrong yet. =P It's never plugged unless I'm supervising it...but I guess it's not wise for me to be posting fire hazard stuff, I suppose. didnt mean you, i was talking to the OP who said he was going to draw 80 amps. i have no idea what you use

just so you know, your wall outlet is rated for 10amps. if you really think you will be drawing 80amps at 14v then you will be drawing just over 10amps at 110v. so you would risk a fire by overloading one plug. and thats assuming that nothing else is plugged into that outlet. i tried using a battery and a charger to run some small amps but my larger charger started to put out 16v. i guess the changes in load confused it because it normally works fine. i ended up going with a power supply i got from work and its working a lot better for me.

it wont be cheap. maybe $100-200

two 1000w subs to one amp will mean you need 2000w, yes.

lol two guys pose while one builds? i dont see stands or bike tools, what do you guys usually do?

lol same here man. and anything i do actually think of will be audio or gun related and the girls in my family say "thats boring, i dont want to get you that" even though its MY present lol. my sister refuses to buy something gun related (a rifle cleaning stand) so she's getting me a cabellas gift card. i know im getting a new set of tools because my dad had me pick them out today lol. my GF said 70% of the presents she bought this year are for me... so i need to brave the mall and do some extra, last minute shopping

it is saturday

lol all i did was talk about the test. i didnt get on your ass for liking p&s.

caps can go bad without showing any physical signs. that would be my guess too, bad cap. but thats just a guess.

jon, please update page one with the extra testing, if you didnt already, and add spectrum to it please. very curious.

Your saying that means you missed the point of my post, and so did jon as it seems. oh well, ill carry on misunderstood and y'all carry on selling stuff that doesn't do a bit of good for half the target audience of this forum. Note the gfaphs had huge spikes down low, where most of us want deadening to begin with. you also dont have any 2'x1' panels in your car where the narrow end is attached to something and the rest just dangles. the metal in this test is obviously going to act differently than the metal in your car. this test simply shows the difference between the two products. and it obviously shows cld is MUCH better.

im not sure if not eating for 24hours was a good idea or not... your stomach shrinks after a while. you should be eating about now so it doesnt matter though lol. GOOD LUCK! oh ya, eat a lot of broccoli. you're going to need a lot of fiber to move all that red meat! lol

not to be mean but what did you expect? why would anyone care that you bought a cheap amp, know its cheap, and you're happy with it? there is nothing to say.

its probably just mechanical noise. some speakers have more than others and thats just the way they are. its very common for it to be audible once you invert subs. just read page two. ya, maybe something fell into the pole vent.

yep, its got a dead cell.

ok, well if you dont use onstar then who cares about it lol. run new speaker wires from amp to speakers in the doors. simple.

do you use the onstar? do you have an aftermarket HU?

ah, yes. at the same time, you are very correct. but you can have both in the same system.

What you're asking is hard to answer. If you're trying to achieve SQ and SPL, you're trying to achieve something that is impossible to achieve. (SQ = Imaging, clarity, etc, etc) .... You lose all that once you start climbing above 130db. If all you're looking for is to 'hear' your highs in combination with bass, then you can get away with cheap speakers and loud tweeters combined with power. Given what you're asking... I think you'd be making a mistake buying $400 + speakers just to keep up with your bass... Seeing as $125 worth of speakers could have the same output.... i completely disagree. it is very possible. i did it. if you want a front stage that keeps up with the subs, ya just get some pro drivers. if sometimes you like to hammer bass and other times you like to listen to music, i would suggest you get an RCA knob for your subs and a good set of comps. now you can do whatever you want with your system. look into image dynamics, ark audio, boston acoustic PROs, CDT, focal, hertz, morel and rainbow for some good quality comps. you will get a better product for the price with most of them. i started to enjoy my system a LOT more once i spent the money on a good front stage. i mean, music i heard my whole life suddenly sounded new and exciting.

i would call that score pretty weak. keep working at it. you'll get there.

pretty stupid that the fire department just left a live wire in the guys driveway, without telling them about it or anything, too.

lmao you guys fail for not seeing this is a WTB add. i have some stuff thats pretty close to what you are looking for. a crescendo 1000.4, i believe its the same board as the sundown. and i have a pdx4.150. also have two D1 12" AA mayhems if you want a sub that can take more power. pm me if you are interested in any of it.

dont put silicone on and then try to glass over it. nothing really sticks to silicone so the glass would just delaminate. but if you only want to seal the box, silicone would be the best thing to use.

oh i didnt know its a wall. ya those would be hard to get perfect seams depending on how you build it. one layer in the edges of a box takes up .15 cubes? umm... i dont think so. think about a 2" x 24" dowel. lets say thats close to the same size as a bag of fiberglass. thats .043 cubes. again, adding resin only wont do anything for you except maybe fill some air holes. but silicone would work better for that since it wont run out of the holes. so if you do another layer, paint some resin on so the fiberglass sticks. then apply resin while its still wet. if you used bondo brand resin its important to sand the first layer because their resin has wax and the next layer will need help to bond.