Torres

i dont know about you but i'm pretty badass interesting video tho...freakin crazy seeing him move a building. you'd think he'd need more leverage for somethin that heavy. but hell...who am i to say?

ima have to check more of him out. like this walter character

full cup beer pong ftw!! i'm a fan of flip cup myself tho

DAMMIT!!

yeah, build it the same way, just put the subs facing up or on the other end facing the trunk. and move the port to the other side, or face it upwards and have it curve along the box to get the proper length. i heard amatt's setup with his firing into the car and it sounded very nice and crisp. i heard no rattle, which to me is a VERY good thing

omg not even 2 minutes into it and i'm rofl ooh...i mean allah dammit! hahahah http://youtube.com/watch?v=1uwOL4rB-go&feature=related hmmm...with that many views...it might've been posted once before. sorry if it's a repost...

i'd check into the codecs too. i had problems with mine, downloaded the right codec, and now works like a charm

yeah i'd find out what you're gonna get paid first. if it's close...then i'd take it over the plant job. this way if you were to go to the plant and come back...you'd go back to your 9.50 job. this way you can keep the wage all the way through. i like consistency

to lower the tuning, you wanna increase the port length, given that you want to keep the width and heigth of the port the same. if you havent built the box yet...then you can do interchangeable ports for daily and comps EDIT: typing > me sometimes

fear is fucking AMAZING! played the first one, and got the x-pac but still havent played it cuz i'm updating my PC to play it maxed out. gettin there tho

hahahhaahahaha i had to watch that over n over

since i dont have the actual trunk...i cant be exact on how this would work. and i'm giving each sub just under 3.5 cubes of air. with outer dimensions, i'd make the box like this: heigth: 17 width : 30 depth : 32.5 the port would be like this: 2" high 28.5" wide 12" long end result after displacement is 6.79 cubes of air, and tuned to 35.2hz. might not be too bad given the tight space you have to work with. this design would have the subs and port firing into the cabin. with the port either on top or bottom since that's really the only place you have room for it. but again...i dno what other obstacles you may have to overcome to make it work, such as parts of the car being in the way and whatnot. but at least that's a start oh...sketchup is bein a lil biotch...but if you need i can draw somethin up in paint to help give a little visual.

i dont see how we can really give any advice...besides the wire clean up, it's a sub in a prefab box you put in the back. he wanting it customized at all? from the looks of it it'd be easy to put 2 10's in there also. i'd encourage that

3.1? about twice as loud? same power? cuz i find that hard to believe honestly

that means here comes the fun part of car audio...build both boxes and pick which you like best. build, build, and rebuild i'm bout to go on my 4th or 5th box for mine

hmmm...maybe you should change the title to 'box poll' or somethin then people will see what pictures are here. damn pic whores...

i would not go with MA audio amps. especially if you have a good sub like DC. i'd get a good amp to back it up. and from what others say on here...the crunch amps are CEA compliant. the 3000.1's put out a lil more than 3000 also

lol yeah they're pretty hideous. made me throw up a little in my mouth. wheels that big are pointless. plain and simple. they dont even classify as rims imo. just cuz there's 3 red fat spokes. only point on putting em on a car...especially one like that is to just say that you did it

ok this is what i got from paint...since sketchup is bein a lil bitch atm not sure if you're going to hear a difference between the 2. with the dimensions i PM'd you, they're very close to the same air space, and tuned the same. i talked to a 'reputable' (so i was told) audio guy at a shop, and he said it's good to make the boxes shallow as to give the subs a sense of being in an infinite baffle. dno if this is true or not...but i cant say he's wrong, so that's why the first box is so long and shallow. thought it'd be nice to have it right between the wheel wells, easier to customize as far as flushing it all together with trim panels. the second box is deeper, and not as wide. the lines on top of the box is to show how the port would follow through the box. also, i read that it's a good idea to put the sub as far away from the port as possible. again i dno for sure, that's partly why i'm posting this pic/info in case anyone can dispute or back me up. if not, then feel free to put the sub anywhere but that's what i got, hope it helps with a visual at least

lemme try to get somethin made up real quick for ya...

hahaha that car is AMAZING

yeah...just cuz ONE solo x cracked doesnt mean they all will. but i do call BS too. cuz the 3 windows would all have to crack at the same time, or else soon as one did, pressure would be released substantially through the broken one and not crack the other 2. at least as far as my thinking goes that's how it'd go down

happy b-day mayne!

yeah i questioned myself after i posted it about being analogue. but i kinda like that one too, if i can find a good place for it. and at least i got xtreme the hook up they had some other meters. i wanna find a speedometer and a tach, then ima wanna redo my cluster a lil somethin fancy

i had sub up port up with my solo x, and i hit 147. subs up port back with my new setup and i hit close to the same number. i think i might be losing some massive pressure on my side windows, but considering the solo x was one sub...i think it'd be a good arguement. unless someone (i think kingsuv can be proof) has tested multiple positions/box styles with the same setup. i believe he said sub back and port back was loudest, unless you have too many subs to do that, which you'd do sub up and port back