beaker

Yup, they just work

Torrent. . . . . Those acers arent bad with SSD drives in them, I have one with the same kinda specs downstairs and it boots faster than this laptop I'm on.

I really wish more people lived near me that have issues like that, or that I knew about them. I'd fix it for free. On a side note, my work throws out computers faster than that by the hundreds. I threw away 22 pounds of ram last week. Some of the desktops at work are still old Dell GX260's with 512 megs of ram. Luckily we're told to replace them with at least a core2 or better.

I actually know quite a few pros that use a regular old plain jane microsoft intellimouse. Back when I gamed full time (think quake 2 era) I was ranked 82 on worldstats and I played with an MS mouse. Most of the other Professional CSS players I know play with the same MS mouse as well.

Everything I've ever had that was razor has broken, right now I just run a plain jane microsoft mouse and keyboard. I've been using them for gaming for years, and I think its the 3rd mouse I've ever bought in 8 years? I always get the same 10$ model too. lol

you can convert it with LAME which is free, open source, and fast. It also has volume equaliztion. Audacity will do the same thing, and require LAME but will give you a GUI front end.

and if your windows install is 30gb, you're doing it wrong.

Why not just Dual boot? Unless you're dev'ing apps for Win8?

I HATE KASPERSKY WITH A PASSION. You can never un-install it. Ever. It wont let you, it infects and takes over everything. Sounds like the virus on the flash drive was hidden on another partition, you could have done a low level format with diskpart and saved it. Chinese flash drives are banned on government bases because about 75% of them contain rootkits hidden on the drive. Easiest way to not get infected again is to disable autoplay.

It's my friends computer, and he said he bought the motherboard, and it came with a "nvidia geforce 7025 / nvidia nforce 630a" card. Well there's you're problem right there. Its not a card, its the onboard video. If you're trying to enable hardware 3d acceleration, you need the drivers from nVidia. http://www.geforce.com/drivers/results/14874 You're welcome.

Dont forget to enable CPU Virtualization in the bios. Also as someone mentioned, Windows 8 is heavily reliant on GPU. Most VM's dont hardware accelerate video unless you tell it to.

^darwin at work

Not much, but I've found the response curve to be less peaky the lower its tuned. That and I can say that I CAN. MUHAHAHA! I'll throw a 10 in there sealed and see what the cabin gain is like, I really think I'm just going to port it through the back seat. The SA8 is the only 8 I've seen that MAY fit the mold for what I'm trying to do. I wonder if I used half inch birch and glassed the hell out of it if it would be lighter/stronger than 3/4 MDF. I'm working on integrating a car computer I designed and built into it, but thats another thread.

lol! that was more of a joke. I wonder how 4 8's would sound isobaric. Is birch lighter than MDF?

Maybe I should just get 8 of these, that would be an interesting build . . . http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-877

Hrmm, that just SOUNDS like a lot of magnet weight. Is there anyone making subwoofers with Neodymium magnets?

What would you suggest?

The car is a 1998 BMW 540i 6spd. The trunk is huge but its going to double as my track day car, hence the low weight. Budget is around 1000, but it'd have to be spread over a few months. I already have the boston 15, which is why I was going to use it. Only other subs I've used that get loud on low power is infinity/jbl. I'd like to reduce the trunk rattle, so the box is going to be sealed off from the trunk, either on the rear deck (which is a good 14 inches deep) or through the back seat. The main reason I'm going with lower power is I dont want to put a lot of strain on the electrical, and I havent seen a lot of lower power applications here. Wanted to see how loud I could get on lower wattage, I might be able to push it to 500 watts, but I'd want a more efficent amp, and I'm not sure where to look for something with a low current draw other than it has to be class D.

I have a delimma. I like my bass in the 135+ range, but I also dont want to add 200 pounds to the back of my bmw to get it loud. I was going to go with a 90% fiberglass box, but I want it to hit like my HT sub does, down below 20hz. if it doesnt get super loud, I dont mind, but I want it to hit low and clean. So here are my two options. I have an Boston Acoustic 15 Orrrr SA8.V2 Which would you pick? The 8 will handle more power, but I'm not sure about the response. I dont want to have to run over 300 watts to it either . . .

I'm going to go ahead and say 90% of how good a speaker sounds . . . is how the box is designed and built. You can make a 50$ sub sound like a 500$ sub if you do it right.

I gave my 16 year old a 1992 190e with a 3.0 motor swapped into it. he's pretty excited about it. Careful in the rain!

I have a 98 540i with the 4.4L V8. Its a 6spd I <3 it

Tune it lower, or put it in a bigger box to get lower end response.

They also said that it was the most difficult laptop to take apart ever. The batteries are glued in The RAM is soldiered to the motherboard and the SSD will ONLY work in a MAC. in otherwords, you cant upgrade shit, you just have to buy a new one.

I have a JL 1000/1 V.2 Slash, you'll need to upgrade your alt, the damn thing pulls over 100 amps. I'd go with the hifonics, I'm considering changing mine to the hifonics because of the current draw.