MrSkippyJ

my guess is your caps key is fucking up everything on your end.

could I have mine switched to MrSkippyJ Please and thank you!

which amp are you going with? sorry if I missed it.

that totally depends on the type of metal used. a copper or silver bolt (although silver may not make a great bolt! ) would do just fine, however a lead bolt would suck. Plus bolts are solid, not stranded and bolts can easily be a lower gauge than the speaker wire.

Ding Ding Ding we have a winner! unless it a speaker terminal. OP seems to have gone away so who knows. Still same idea i guess, either speaker or a ground, the heat is a bad connection.

yeah the MDF thing is throwing me off. my guess is it's just a bad connection, that resistance creates lots of heat.

terminals to what?

I think the spectrum would have to go on first. I would do 2 layers of the Pro before I would take the time to coat my car with that stuff. Maybe tag the bottom of the car with the spectrum and the inside with the Pro mat. What do you have in your car system wise?

It is easiest to think of the power handling of component sets as power handling PER crossover. So if it says 100 watts RMS, then that is per crossover (or per door if you want to think of it that way). In a lot of the component sets I have seen, the RMS of the individual speakers is higher than the RMS of the tweet and woofer together. I think this has more to do with the power handling capability of the actual crossover itself. In your case, the RMS of the components is 60 watts RMS, this is pretty much exactly what the T400.4 puts out to each channel. The match is perfect. The 6x9s have a bit of a higher RMS capability, but they will be in the rear so you it is fine to have a bit less power going to them. You sure aren't going to hurt them by under powering them. I only mentioned the T400.4 because you mentioned the T1000.1 for a sub amp and both of those amps cosmetically match up. There are plenty of nice 4 channel amps out that will run your choices of speakers just fine. Any amp with a 4ohm rating of 60-100 watts RMS per channel is all you need.

happy bday, thanks for making such great products!

if you are just throwing money away, send it to me. You don't need a line driver until your RCA voltage is below what the amp accepts.

well you can't really say ever. you can do it to get different amounts of power to speakers. I can't think of a sub woofer set up you would want to use it for, but there could be times with mid bass, mids, and tweeters that it could come in handy. Though it would be some crazy passive crossover stuff going on to do it.

it won't hurt the amp to put subs with different ohm VCs on it. However your subs will see power based on their ohm. Your D2s will see different power than you D4. And your math is off. A D2 sub can be 1 or 4 and a D4 sub can be 8 or 2. The end result is either .73, 1, .8, or 1.4 None of it matters because you don't want to do it.

IIRC impedance rise changes for just about every frequency. no real point in worrying about it unless you have a single note system.

yes it would add stress to your alt. Depending on when you get a H/O alt would depend on if it survives. Adding an AQ2200d adds stress to your alt also I would add a second battery if it were me. However, I wouldn't add one of those, stick to sealed batteries on the inside.

That really sounds like an RCA problem somewhere.

I don't know that sub specs, but if 1000W@2ohm is what you want, the T1000-1 is perfect. Also, save your money and buy a T400-4 rather than 2 prime amps. The T400-4 will run the mids and highs you listed just fine and be cheaper than 2 prime amps and match your T1000-1.

since when do prime amplifiers not put out rated?

With what you have, I would take one set of the 6.5s you already have and put them back there. Keep the other set up front. just fade between them to get a good balance. Personally I wouldn't worry about rear fill, but that is just me.

If you don't have a good balance between your subs and a pair of 6.5" components, then something isn't set up right. Don't spend more money on speakers when what you have will work.

All dogs will eat like that. Keep a regular feeding habit and give the puppy tons of stuff to chew on. Stuff like bones and raw hides that last for a while. The shit eating thing is probably from being in a puppy mill, where regular feeding didn't happen. Dog had to eat what it could and shit was it. My puppy was a puppy mill dog as well and did the same thing. She still does it from time to time. I have read some things about changing that, like putting hot sauce in the dogs turds and some other stuff I don't remember. I never worried about it and now it isn't much of a problem.

the red wires go to the amp correct? if so then that will work. You can't change anything AFTER the crossover however. Passive crossovers are designed for the specific speakers and more specifically, very specific OHM loads. You cannot change the OHM of the speakers and expect to use the crossover. You can get away with changing speakers out so long as the impedance and power handling of the speaker is the same, though I still wouldn't recommend that either.

second skin, done.

not even worth worrying about.

I would pick speakers that sound good, who cares if they match up.