Cashdollar2009

This. There's probably a reason for that price point.

ok thank you for the info. The sub actual sounds really good. idk why people hate on it. Your welcome, if it's in your funds I would also try building a box on your own. Would definately help increase your chances. It's a good sub I agree, budget sub at that. People just know there is better out there. Noone really hates on it as long as your not going around saying, Oh my Sony Xplod 1000w max blew out my back window. It would sound alot better in a ported box, seems as if yours is sealed? Didn't watch any of the vids really just caught a glimps of it. yea its sealed, if i don't get system of the month, im guna buy new stuff, Amp:http://www.sonicelec...rt-FX1.400.html Sub:http://www.sonicelec...ass-M-154D.html Box:http://www.sonicelec...-2.0-Black.html Equalizer:http://www.sonicelec...ion-EQS746.html DB blocks:http://www.sonicelec...pion-GDBRG.html Rca:http://www.sonicelec...by-Scosche.html Speaker wire:http://www.sonicelec...e-S-14-250.html And as far as your list goes, ditch the EQ and Distro block. No real need for the block, nor the EQ really for what you would plan to run. Then use that extra money to purchase a better subwoofer/amplifier. MUCH better options out there for the money. Even with budget brands, you could afford a nice little monoblock amplifier and a better quality driver for the money.

To each their own. BUT, I will say for you to wait until you hear another setup for comparison. Until you have something else to compare your own equipment to, then your stuff is going to sound fantastic! lol. An XPlod works for a little beginner setup. Stick around here for a while and read up. Watch some videos and check out some reviews. Look into some of the budget companies/options that are being ran around here. DC Audio Level 3's, Sundown Audio SA-Series, Skar Audio, Audioque SDC line, etc. Save up some cash and upgrade. If you are completely satisfied with what you are running now, you obviously have not caught "the bug" yet. Either way, props for seeking out a forum to share your interest in the sport. Don't just simply "bump" a little build summary thread. Add pictures or videos of new items or improvements.

Liked for the ceiling decorations. And that octo-port came out badass man!

Equipment, electrical, etc? Need some more details man.

Out of those options, I'd say the Rockford Prime Series.

I feel bad for whoever bid $400.00...

Somehow you're going to end up with four 18"s in a 6th order bandpass wall and make fit... lol

Spec. box at rms vs. adjusted box with more than rms? Typically people build smaller and add power to get louder. 3ft^3 per on 2k would be perfectly fine. No offense, this is all just constructive criticism, and I respect you reaching out for help in your situation, but for now, i'd stick to 2k at the most if you insist on running over rms. Without knowing your true experience, i really think you'd be surprised at the results you'd see splitting 3k between the two in 7ft^3 man.

Save the image and upload it to Photobucket then post the image code here. I wanna see... lol

5ft^3 per sub is going to be way too much if you plan to drive them over their rms ratings. Typically, if you have to ask how much they can really handle, this means you aren't fully aware or comfortable with all of the different variables that actually go into power handling. With an enlosure that large on more than the rated rms you are going to experience unloading issues. If I had to give you ballpark figures, you could get away with running 2k per sub if they are in about 3ft^3 per if you insist running more than rms power. And when I say 2k, I mean 2,000 watts of CLEAN power. Good voltage, and proper gain setting would be a must in this situation for you.

I currently have 1 15" and 1 5.0k on their way. I havo no equipment problem. Just space problem. I'm worried of getting down to 12's mostly because of the low notes. Any thoughts ? Looks like your question is getting answered, here's something to crush that myth. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=50WaWardmJw

^^^^ There's what you want as a final end result... lol Figure out what you can slide into your trunk, then plug numbers into the calculator to get around 4.5 ft^3 net, with around 15in^2 of port area per ft^3. So get 4.5 ft^3 net with 67.5 in^2 port area and tuning at 34Hz.

Visonik V308Xt Bought it new off of eBay for $34.99. 4-ohms stable bridged, didn't know any better and ran my old school 15" Petra's Prowlers at 2-ohms bridged. That things popped fuses for two years before it actually went. Managed to do a 141.5 sealed in my old car with that amplifier. One of the best $35.00 i've ever invested.

That advice is meant to be a joke right? He's not joking.... It'll cost you around $75.00 to build your own ported box. That's wood, glue screws, silicone. Hit up someone who can get you a free basic box design to work off of. Just make sure you have your subwoofer(s) and amplifier chosen first because different drivers on different power are going to be looking for different box designs. I just put together two 12" Kicker CVR's, an 800rms monoblock from MB Quart, and a cheap wiring kit today for a friend for $325.00. If you know where you are shopping you can put together something small and decent on a small budget. As far as knowing a friend at a shop... Just buy online with your budget. It's not like you are going to get raped on any shipping charges on anything. And avoid anything JL Audio if you are trying to stick with $700.00. I believe they sell that JL 13.5W7 for something like $700.00 itself. For budget look into Kicker, MB Quart, Hifonics, Audiopipe, ebay for wiring harnesses and dash kits. For quality budget look for Sundown SA series, DC Audio level 3's, Fi ssd's or q's. Just a few tips.

Oh, you guys want rear deck flex? Here you go. lol

Here's a little window flex as well, song's around 27Hz.

Yeah the Decaf version is 26 and 29 iirc. I lose a lot of output at anything below 25Hz. But being tuned to 33 and peaking at around 42, i'm happy with how low it still plays. Summer build will be probably have interchangable ports, one in the 40's for burping (wanted to take a stab at high frequency numbers) and one at either 27 or 28 for daily. This car just seems to like to play low, no matter what I throw in it. And no worries, she's not jailbait. We dated a few years back, she's 20 now. Lol

Decided to attempt a little hartrick today, wasn't really expecting much but decided to film it. This is just my little temporary setup to hold me over until my real build this spring/summer. I am not claiming a full hairtrick, but I was just surprised how much air movement I was getting under the given circumstances... 2004 Chevrolet Aveo 15" DC Audio XL M1 Audiopipe 15001d nominal load reads 1.2-ohms I'm running an 80amp inline fuse so after efficieny, voltage drop, and rise i'd be surprised to see around 800wrms. Box is 3.1ft^3 tuned to 33Hz. Sub up, port back. I wanted to do both back since I wasn't sealing for this temporary setup, but it wouldn't fit with my height limitations. Keep in mind this song peaks at 26Hz. Just Like P - Webbie (Decaf Version) So 33Hz tune, playing 26Hz on about 1/3 of the subs thermal handling. I've always loved the XL series!

From what I've really read, if you break down the physical attributes, they are lighter, so that's very very little less mass to be moved my the motor, while still protecting the gap. Plus they look cool as Hell.

15" XL M1 - Crescendo 3kwp, 2,500ishwrms - 145.0 @ 36Hz firing forward sealed off in my Alero. (Db Drag legal sealed up on windshield) My Aveo is probably sitting between a 141-142 on 800wrms in a temp box (sub up, port back) at 40Hz, same sub.

I hear you man. And the bolded options, yeah I was putting them off and if I hadn't found a solution by 1:30, that is what is going to happen.

My printer has just decided not to print Microsoft Word text documents. Instead, it spits out blank sheets. The title page had some Word Art on it that printed out just fine, still, I am not getting it to print text. It zips through where the text is supposed to print then slows to do the Word Art correctly. I have searched around for the last 20 minutes and have yet to find any real solution. I JUST replaced the color ink cartridge, though in this case, I am printing out black text. The Word Art is black and prints fine. Would anyone know of any settings or procedures I may have to go through to address this issue? I have unplugged and then plugged the printer back into my laptop. I have also shut down and rebooted the printer several times. I've never had this issue before and need it to print my damn paper that I need for class... HP C4680 is the printer model number if that helps. Thanks guys. I'll continue surfing around for a solution.

P.M. replied.

Yeah it's a 15" DC XL. And I wish I still had it laying around. Ended up pulling a 145.0 @ 36Hz legal with that setup. Actually sold the everything to a friend and he put it in his Cavalier firing backward and moved the port to the side. He did a 144.9 @ 45Hz legal. lol If I can find the specs I used i'll message them to you. I ended up building the box then made the outermost baffle about 6" wider than the actual enclosure itself so I could better seal it off into the cabin. I just didn't have the cash for a wall or could justify to my parents at the time of doing a wall since they helped me purchase the vehicle and I didn't have it payed off at the time and by using two full rolls of gorilla tape to seal it off I was able to keep the car damn clean when I traded it in!