SnowDrifter

Anyone know where to get some 14"x48"x1/4" concrete form tubes? All the places I've looked at have either 12 or 18 but no 14. Preferably local(Woodinville, Redmond, Sammamish, Bellevue area) but if not - a website would be great. Thanks in advance!

It's box/power dependant. If you are tuned high - it would be pretty much like free airing the sub. No sound, no control. If you are tuned low - shouldn't be an issue.

How are all my fellow forum members faring in the snowstorm?

Methinks it might be time for a build log

You certainly can, but it seems like that would be inaccurate too since say it's a 24db/octave crossover, the 70hz crossover point have to be at -6db for it to be actually set at 70hz. Isn't -6db half the voltage? You could just turn the x-over all the way up, measure the voltage, then turn the crossover knob down until it's half that. Maybe... lol

No, because it doesn't block everything above 70hz - it blocks things higher than 70hz more and more as the frequency goes higher and higher. Even if the crossover is set at 70hz, you might be able to hear 100 hz. Hope that made sense

Playing below tuning yields less box rise - more power - more heat if I understand it right. And lower frequencies might move slightly less air through the coil because it's a low frequency. Might be the same volume of air per stroke for cooling, but it's less strokes per second.

Got me

....

like i said, if you are over 15kw, its really not our fault......but we will fix it for you. What issue were you having? You can contact D'amore engineering any time and send it in. It will be tested and repaired (if need be) and sent back. We have no problem backing up our product but its been 98% user error every time i read about someone having a problem. The thread always starts out "my DD-1 not working....", but by the end of the thread, the guy figured it out and is happy. So send it in, we will take a look at it. If its defective, it will be fixed, no problem at all. It's a 4300 watt amp(but does it at 4 ohms) and got a text back from your shop saying that it should be OK when I asked them. It was pretty much the same issue as the service bulletin described. Distortion light and chirping. But hey, if it gets fixed, I cant complain

That's the issue I was having when I posted my thread a while back. Will the units still be under warranty if they have this issue?

It's funny... I was just about to harass you on youtube for having the same setup in the 'hoe for more than 2 years I'm tuned in

Not to thread jack... But could you explain this one to me? I think i kind of understand what he means. i guess it can be kind of explained by an analogy of sorts. if you had a regular ported box with the sub firing forward and (heaven forbid) the port directly behind it firing back, then there wouldn't be much to control excursion because the air would escape before it had a chance to bounce off the walls a couple of times (fail explanation) boxes help control excursion by maintaining pressure inside the box, without that pressure it would be like a free air environment, in which it is easier to reach the mechanical limits of the sub because there is less force pushing back up on the cone to keep it from bottoming out. so if most of the air escapes before it can pressurize, then you might as well have a free air environment...okay maybe not that dramatic, but you get the point. ^^that probably doesn't make any sense whatsoever, but i'm too tired to go back and read that shit right now lol. i could just be talking out of my ass too who knows. feel free to ask any more questions. i'm here to learn too That makes sense if the port was protruding right next to the sub leaving the rest of the airspace of the box pretty much unused, but your port is all the way on the other side. I'm wondering how it can still have a loading issue

Not to thread jack... But could you explain this one to me?

yes that is the word i was looking for.. where i bought it said that it can be used as a "infinate baffle" subwoofer. are you suggesting using the hole i cut for this sub as a port? You could be different and build a box to fit around where you have it right now, then do a 4 inch aero into the cabin as well. Or a 4th order and use your current sub cutout hole as a port

You could just get/make some 19" cutouts, the screw them into your existing speaker holes.

Darn, no way of doing it with a basic multimeter? No access to an oscope right now =(