SPLadd1ct

A Zv4 10" being pushed into clipping on a Sundown 2500D at 1 ohm free air.....I do not see a problem with two of these on a Sundown 3500Dv2 at 1 ohm in 4 cubes....These subs have some serious mechanical power handling

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164370-sundown-x-series-10121518-pre-order-eta-june-2013/ Scroll down a little bit and there ya - post #16 by sundownz.... Right here on the SMD forum...

this is so wrong lol look at Fi Q an 18 needs 6 - 8 cubs ported and not the 4 -6 you stated.. every sub is different and you should go with manufacturer recommendation And another subwoofer guru!!!!

No... Use manufacture's specifications as a guide. Those recommendations are straight from Jacob's mouth which if you do not know that is the owner of Sundown...so yes that is the manufacures specifications...now please shut up.... N9neMillahhh - 4 cubes will be perfect for the two 10's on a 3500Dv2 at 1 ohm; don't listen to Krakin because he obviously has no idea what he is talking about....

PM sent!

I want this amp....get at me! Call/text: 570-933-2172. I am from PA

Are there any cosmetic flaws on this amp? If so please take close up pictures! Also when was the amplifier purchased? I am very interested!

Here ya go !! http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/148701-crescendo-bc3500-fs-like-new/

I'm gonna say no you should be fine... I had the same problem with my black Sundown 4500D amplifier and it got so hot once it went thermal and my amp would not turn on....although all my amplifiers exposed to some pretty intense heat were never damaged. If you think about it, its really not the components that are getting hot, it's just the case/heatsink of the amplifier, so you really couldn't fry anything....

Well since when was a smaller box with subwoofer A w/amplifier A, produced more SPL with a bigger box with subwoofer A w/amplifier A el 0 el....be careful with the word "spl"

It's far too pro and well beyond my understanding lol Thanks. If i had the money to get everything custom tooled then hell yeah I would. A more realistic project though is I'm currently working on a 48 db slope xover so we'll see how that turns out. DAMN WINNING!! (:

If you are looking to get louder you probably wouldn't see a huge gain going from the two subs you have now to say an AA havoc 12, I would upgrade to two AA havoc 12's tuned nice and low for a flatter response (26hz)....As far as the response time that you speak of, you would probably best obtain that by getting an A/B class amplifier that has a good damping factor.

Me either...but I think it is PRETTY obvious that carboard wouldn't seal a trunk very well compared to mdf, lol.

You really have no clue why cardboard isn't god enough?? This!! ^^^^ Please. Just don't.....Get off your damned plywood and cardboard kick and either get 3/4" MDF or 3/4" BIRCH plywood (See what I bolded and capitalized there?)

whoa there tiny tim. Id settle down if I were you. There are actually 20 level6s that were made. You still set your gains wrong with a dd-1. A tool is only as good as its user and as you can see youre the phillips head screwdriver to a flat head screw. The reason it blew is simple. Go look in a mirror. The woofer and amp only do what you tell it to. If you wanted more and wanted louder I guess you didnt work that hard because you would have had two level6s on 10k. Shall I keep going. Oh one more thing. Your pseudo sales ad is gone too. check and mate

"It" is going to do nothing, besides what you do to it. No offense, but you are the "dumbfuck" who killed the coil with clipping....don't blame the sub sir... I think you should actually read up on what you spent big $$$ for and show SMD that you arn't a moron who is capable of not blowing a DC level 6 with your stupidity.

Good luck trying to fit a box that size into your listed Max" dimensions. What else are you gonna turn the sub into next? Anyways if you are serious I recently did an enclosure design/build for an Orion HCCA 15.2. I don't have the exact dimensions on me but I would recommend 4.5 cubic feet NET after ALL displacements. We did a slot port enclosure with that volume and put the sub on a powerbass 2k and it slammed (:

Hope this helps! This enclosure kicks ass btw and slams the lows (: Report

I actually may just have the box design for you! Let me ask the owner ;p

Tough to say all of those options I listed have great subs, all depends on your application. If you are looking for amplifiers check out Crescendo, Audioque, Sundown and DC.

You have lots of options, although I wouldn't personally go with kicker or jl......you are just paying for the name. There are SO many more better options out there. I recommend looking at DC, Fi, Ascendant Audio, Sundown, SSA, Obsidian!

I am looking into a small DIY ht project. I am leaning toward using one or multiple tc sounds epic 12"(s) drivers. I can't say I ever saw someone use a 4th order for home theater use, are they ever used? Here are the t/s parameters: • Power handling: 500 watts RMS/ 2,000 watts peak • Le: 3.2 mH • Impedance: 2 ohms per coil x 2 • Re: 3.66 ohms • Frequency range: 15 - 150 Hz • Fs: 24.0 Hz • SPL: 86.6 dB • Vas: 3.22 cu. ft. • Qms: 7.80 • Qes: 0.42 • Qts: 0.39 • Xmax: 22.9 Would this driver be appropriate in a 4th order application? Just trying to get a few ideas! Thanks SMD

Crescendo bc2000 is what I would do....and if you are serious about car audio do yourself a favor and get a quality h/o alternator (Singer, DC power), do the big 3 in 1/0, get a new front battery, then at least 1 run of 1/0 to the back.... Also you said your AB 100.1 didn't do anywhere near 1800 watts....how do you know did you clamp it? do you have any idea what impedance rise is?

No. And you get what you pay for, please don't try to take the cheap way out when it comes to buying car audio equipment. Take a look at Crescendo's new line of BC amplifiers and as far as subwoofers check out dc, sundown, ssa, ascendant, fi, and digital designs.

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