audiofanaticz

wait no more white colored maps? wooohoo

In the manual. it says .05 ohms. hence why he said must be a typo

Well then something I would of never expected from a well established company such as IA. Welcome IA / Nick!

When I typically sell something of high value online, or even when I shipped my saz4500s to someone that needed loaner amps multiple times I took full unedited video of packaging said items, including the time, date serial numbers etc to cover my ass just in case something would happen. So I wouldnt really say its suspicious, especially when you have a hard time trusting people... Hell, even a friend that I gave my dd-1 too so a fellow moderator could borrow it trashed it and then tried blaming it on said moderator here. At first I thought it was said moderator who trashed it but after speaking with several people all saying he took great care of it for the 20minutes he used it I found out that it was my local buddy that was letting numerous people use it, had it laying on the floor out of the box where people stepped on it. Even in some videos of world finals you could see it on the ground as well... I dont know what pissed me off worse a friend not being a friend, or me accusing someone wrongfully So yea. I see no problem in recording something to save your ass!

best way to explain butyl rope is to think of a rope. Now take all the butyl off the deadener so your left with only the foil. Take that butyl and make it look like the rope, thats what it is. Its not one sided or two side, or even 3 sided. Its all sided. You could roll it into a ball if you wanted. That being said, you could also use the butyl rope to stick the liner to your door as well, and maybe easier to get off if you ever have to get back in there to service a window. Ideally you would want to adhere it to the actual door itself behind the door panel (similar to how the oem vapor barrier was put on), but depending on how overkill you want to go with it you can attach it to the inside of the outer door skin as well.

Congrats!!!

How exactly are you wanting to use this stuff? Because if you put it around your trunk and hood to make a seal chances of getting said item to open back up again will be slim. It is all butyl and there is no non-stick surface on it like there is on a deadener, so whatever it touches or gets compressed too will pretty much be stuck together. Opening said door, trunk, or hood would be a lot of work like trying to remove deadener that you previously installed.

I personally would not use contact cement that comes in the aerosol cans. It will get down right expensive if your doing a lot of liner and the price you pay for some 3m super 77 or 90 is not worth it at all when you can get a gallon of the good stuff for $20-30... This Weldwood Landau top and trim contact cement is the best there is. http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/281094382720?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82 It is the industry standard in car audio and even upholstery for wrapping vinyl/leather/enclosures. It wont let go due to high heat or humidity like other contact cements do. You typically have to order this stuff. If you want to buy some at a local store this is the same manufacture but does not hold up to high heat no where near as well, but still works great. I tend to use it here and there for carpeting speaker boxes when I run out of the blue can stuff and need to get a box done, still never had a issue with it either. But I wouldnt trust it for wrapping of headliners, door panels, or any other items that get exposed to direct sunlight for long periods of time, or that has a lot of stretched vinyl. http://www.lowes.com/pd_41163-68-00273_0__?productId=3033218&store_code=2206&cm_mmc=SCE_PLA-_-Paint-_-Glue-_-3033218:DAP&CAWELAID=&kpid=3033218&CAWELAID=1368052019&k_clickID=65711157-4741-4a18-847e-1f72e7d7d1de Both of these you can spray it on if you have a compressor and a hvlp spray gun, otherwise just using cheap foam or chip brushes is fine too. Apply to both the liner and the panel of the door, let tack up so its dry to the touch and then mate the two together.

I really dont see many people flocking in the car audio world. That stuff is amazing and fun to do!

600watts rms per woofer.

i am going to make something BETTER than a router bit trey. That is coming next week...hang tight oh and thanks man!!! much appreciated! I mean a router bit tray for me! Im shocked no one sells a nice big one and my wooden one is ugly! lol Unless you bought me a cnc machine to make my own tray

oh wows these pictures look even better than what you sent me earlier tonight. So much sex Now make me a router bit tray similar to these

AMM-1 being used on a woofer free-air AMM-1 being used on a subwoofer free-air

Here ya go You can watch the video all the way through and watch the before and afters, or go to 4:43. AMM-1 being used on subwoofers in an enclosure https://youtu.be/qcYOtBC_ONU?t=4m43s Here is another one. https://youtu.be/--sdgtgzR4k?t=3m45s Dismissed.

preparing to prove someone wrong. please hold

His reply is not directed at you. If there was an issue with a $400 tool not working properly would you really just say oh well its a BS device and not try to get it fixed or see what your doing wrong and instead go off on the internet talking bad about it? Just rather odd imo. There are people that cant even figure out how to use a DD-1 or read its manual and that tool is simple as it gets! So I wouldn't be surprised if people are also not smart enough to read the AMM-1 manual and use that properly.... Just like people claiming their DD-1s don't work and they return them only for Steve to make a video testing them and they all working fine and resells them as used return units with the new owners having zero issues..

To some its not worth while to stress one amp instead of buying 2. Not everyone is into that. And its not always about rise, sometimes power compression plays a HUGE factor. From 2 amps wired at .35 in my truck to 4 amps wired at .7 I only gain a small amount on the meter, but I make a shit ton more power, and woofers get hot stupid quick compared to as they do with 2 amps. All that extra power was quickly transferred in to heat and had nothing to do with rise. So just because something may be one way in one persons vehicles does not mean it is going to be the same in everyone elses vehicle. It could even be 2 of the same make model vehicles with the same gear and you can have drastic differences in results.

strapping at 1ohm would be .5 per amp correct, but would void warranty and some people are not all about that life. strapping at 2 ohm would be 1ohm per amp. But dude said strapping at 2 ohms wouldnt be a lot of power, then followed that statement by saying you should run 1 7.5 per sub at 1ohm and that would make the subs hammer.... Kind of messed up since each amp sees the same load either way, and rise will almost always be similar for the most part weather or not its a 2x rise or a 4x rise strapped at 2ohms or single at 1ohm. Just an example.

I mean 2 dc 7.5k's strapped at 2ohms for the pair of woofers is no different than 2 dc 7.5k's ran at 1 ohm per woofer.

I wouldnt expect anything spectacular out of it 130watts bridged at 4ohms. Toss a 2-3X rise to that, your talking 8+ohms, so seems right to me.

200 watts from a 600wrms amp @ 1 ohm that has a 2 or 3X impedance rise seems normal to me. Its a huge shell shocker for people that "clamp amps" and say look at my 600wrms amp making 1400 watts rms because they never measure how clean the signal is and the amp is clipping so hard the mosfets about to explode.

impedance rise is a hell of an upset...

The Team v2 (which is neo). but no confirmation on release date. The SD-3 8inch should be sometime in 2016. There is also a new E series v3 shall be releasing early in Februaryish 2016 with a new basket, larger leads, and a bumped back plate to prevent bottoming out the coil. The ZV5 should be coming out around June 2016 (but possibly sooner).