audiofanaticz

No Guts no glory.. You always get that gut feeling no matter how knew it is or isnt. Just got to look towards the future and say its worth it your making it better.

Bought his Audison BitTen from him, great communication, and everything was put in bags, and bubble wrapped to insure a safe ride to its new home!! Thanks Kyle!

If its not Mr. KnowItAlls it's Mr. MeToos... LOL

Additionally the other Dashcam thread on the forums for anyone curious.

There was another thread months ago I posted these in with comparison shots of the current 4k model next to their last gen, and like 6 other brands. The guy that did it was VortexRadar on youtube. Quality video. The BlackVues are the best wtihout a doubt, even have additional options you can get with them such as mounts, battery backups, etc. Ive been wanting to pull the trigger on it for a while now, but just havent but researched the hell out of this brand. The only thing I would change is I would switch the power to a constant on source and not switched because it does detect impacts/movement and will automatically record if your away from the vehicle which cant be done when the power/ign is off, so in a way your hindering its functionality. The unit is smart in that sense and can detect when the vehicle is not moving. They say you need the Power Magic Pro wiring pack for this or the additional battery pack, but I dont see why really. I would assume the Pro wiring pack would have some function built into it to disable the camera if the stock vehicle battery gets too low, and or the battery pack option is to run the dash camera when the vehicle is off so it does not drain off the stock vehicle battery. However being audio guys with big quality batteries I dont think the camera would have enough drain to kill some beefy batteries and you should just be able to hard wire it directly without either methods they try to sell you on. Maybe I'll just have to buy one up to get to know it sooner than later, but the only thing that is stopping me is the 1080P rear camera. I know as soon as I buy it they will upgrade the model to have a 4k rear camera that weill match the front 4k camera, because thats all the thing is really missing imo. Plus thats the way things seem to go for me. LOL Here is the above said comparison video I posted months ago if anyone is interested in comparison videos of the Blackvue against other respected dashcams.

I told him I would tow the DGAF Toyota back home from Cali to Wi and keep her alive and finish it off, and he was all for it. but he didnt want to give the subs and amps with it. Tried explaining that it wouldnt be the DGAF Toyota if it doesnt have the DGAF gear, but he wasnt buying into it. LOL

look like some nice new tables about to be turned black Seen the livestream earlier, know your complaining about time, so send me a ticket so I can come gut the Civic and the DGAF Toyota for ya.

You want to use a ring terminal with a 5/16 inch hole, same goes for the speaker box terminals as well.

ShowTime Electronics is legit if you knew what I knew you would have no problem buying XS Power from them You did good recording a video of the package and opening it on camera for evidence to back yourself up. That being said, I probably would of contacted the company first before going public with it. With that also being said Id want a new battery even if it appears to work fine currently because for 1 you dont know the abuse that the package went through, and there could be tiny cracks in the led plates or anything that may perform fine with a simple voltage test but wont handle the load, or it may get worse and not work at all. There you be up shits creek without a paddle then. Not to mention the case looks dinged up pretty bad around the corners and once again who knows how sealed the battery may really be in its current state. Buying a new battery, a battery that keeps getting more expensive every few months (it seems) I would want it in mint new condition, and not some second hand store off the shelf of Salvation Army looking battery. The Styrofoam in the other package is designed to take the brunt force abuse and become busted if shit goes south during shipping. What Im guessing is the XP3000 was packed like that too, since its in its original box so Im sure the tape let go and some careless shipping emplyee taped it up as quick as possible and didnt care about putting the battery back in the packaging right. For what its worth the XP 3000s are a waste imo anyways. Everything about the D series is just so much nicer, though my butthole still puckers when I pick them up by the plastic handle thinking its going to break. LOL Only $80 more for a D3100 that will school the XP3000 in every way, and the D3100 comes double boxed surrounded by Styrofoam and a 3 year warranty. Where as the XP3000 you get 10ah more, a small piece of useless Styrofoam at the bottom it seems, and a plastic bag and not doubled box with a 2 year warranty. Just my preference though.

The interest free thing is cool if they pay it off in said amount of time. Some retailers out there doing similar payment methods and charging 26.99+% interest. Its just plan crazy!

I still want one of them PG cyclones to play with first hand. Had the alpine pull out cassette player and a old alpine 2 channel amp to go with it. There was a Clarion deck that I wanted that was similar to the AutoPC but just like a model below it, I remember it being a color display and having flashing stars, dont recall the model number. The JBL MS-8 is a straight turd. Lose the remote control and you cant change nothing, limited options, no delay for remote turn on or off (one of those I forget) and it always popped, 3 different units where tried on an install, and even bench tested out of the vehicle same results. Man that thing was a gimmick imo and everyone talked so highly about it, i pulled my hair out dealing with the thing. I straight up have a bald spot now... It kind of scared me of using a processor in my own vehicle, but luckily its a night and day difference between that and a RF360.2!

I really need to order a bunch of your products, my Cadillac CTS has horrible road noise its so annoying, but not as annoying as the Direct Injection engine that goes click click click...

One thing that worries me is where the coil leadout wire is meet with the tinsel wires, it just appears to be dangling there. Usually they are covered in glue to prevent vibration which can lead to breaking leadout wires from the coil.

The split slug is actually cheaper to produce iirc, and its also prone to be damaged less compared to larger slugs. Which is why I was told they started doing them on the old single ufo btls like I got.

Also Ive been trying out a couple Chrome plugins, this allows dead picture links to become working again. There is also one for Firefox. https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-embedded-imag/ogipgokcopooepeipngiikdkpmcpkaon?hl=en-US Now what has me curious is if we can take the code from the browser plugin and integrate it into the forums so no one needs a browser plugin and old build logs will just work again... What this plug in does is it allows you to see the pics that photobucket has blocked due to 3rd party hosting. So like this buildlog that @Kyblack76 had posted which is now dead without out paying $400, is now alive again!

Wrong your grandfathered in right now on the older packages. From their site just a couple minutes ago.

Imgur works fine, you need to copy the direct link to the photo as with any hosting site. imageshack.us is another good site, as well as you can upload direct to the site if you reduce the photo size to the sites requirement for the free user or become a supporting member. Photobucket stopped allowing 3rd party hosting as of last year, unless you pay $400 per year for their premium account. So they screwed everyone that has posted any pictures on any forums in the past. Which is why their site is a shit show full of ads and popups due to forcing their current users to another platform including the paying users that had no issue paying the $35 bucks a year that now need to pay $8.99 per month just to remove ads..... It is literately shitbucket now... like 10 different ads that cover your entire screen with audio once you disable adblocker, then once you close all the ads you get another popup telling you to upgrade your account...

need to get the thing slapping asap, then get 1320 to do a feature on it! yeeeeea

No one is saying you are asking for something for free, I am just assuring you go through the steps to guarantee it is something with the meter and not that one specific install/gear because if you send it out to be repaired it may take a few weeks until you get it back. It would be even worse to send in a perfectly working meter be without it for a while only to get it back finally and you realize something else was the issue. Just am trying to narrow down the possible issue as much as possible and troubleshoot. I know first hand the mass majority of hi/low converters will show distortion on the dd-1 as soon as you turn the volume up 1 notch, sometimes the volume can be all the way at 0 and the majority of those converters are showing distortion. I actually made a video thats like 17 minutes long testing a few different converters and a prototype SMD converter that never made it to market so I removed the video from youtube. You can email Tony at: [email protected] You can email Juan at: [email protected] I would probably email both because one may respond faster than the other with warranty instructions.

If your aftermarket radio is putting out a distorted signal before the lc2, then it will be no change in testing after the lc2. Testing using the rca plug on a system that you already are not sure of is doing no good. You need to test it on something that you know is good, dont matter if its your bass amp in another vehicle or not, if the meter is broke then it wouldnt work, if its good then it wouuld work and then you would know the issue is the other vehicle. Hell you can plug the dd-1 leads into a home receiver speaker outputs and test it that way. A lot of new vehicles have crazy processing and preset crossovers you cant do nothing about. For all you know that dash speakers may crossed over by the factory above 1khz and thats why you cant get a 1khz light. Wouldn't be the first time, wont be the last. As for trying to get the 40hz light to come on while hooked up to the dash speakers its not going to happen because again the dash speakers are internally crossed over to not play below a certain frequency to prevent distortion and sounding like shit. This is the way the automotive industry has been doing it for a long time and why your best way about adding additional amplification to a vehicle is by using some sort of processor and tap off each and every speaker to give the processor a full frequency bandwidth that it can sum together. Gone are the days of running a hi/low converter and getting a full bandwidth signal from 1 speaker.

I have one of the first 4 DD-1s made, it has nothing to do with its age. If you never replaced the battery you should do that. I change mine on all my smd tools every 6-8 months to be sure they are good. If you have it laying around in your truck, the actual harness for the dd-1 could have been damaged. I would try it using rca cables running from an aftermarket radio and if its fine with that then its something with your stock radio or the processing its doing so I would try a different output on it.

Both are done. Odd I didnt see the other one until now. Sorry

Most likely not for a little while. It was just back in stock and they had 5 left a couple days ago. Most likely all gone now