audiofanaticz

sounds to me your just buying used gear... Maybe buy new stuff that is guaranteed to be good and you'll have less problems :0

Vellman is not to the greatest, but they do work. Ive known a few people ask about them for amp repair and where told it is not the best scope to use. And Steve uses a ScopePlus 440, which retails in the $350 range at many places. http://elexp.com/tst_m440.htm http://www.mobilesolutions-usa.com/smartpa...lddigital_1.htm

Fluke, bluepoint (snap-on brand), sperry, mac are all good Digital multimeters. People say to get the nicer multimeters for a few reasons like they will last longer, built with better components, and have a strict tolerence for being accurate/calibrated. Where as some off brand could give you a totally different reading compared to quality dmm. Ive heard that some of the brands better brands use fluke internals a few times, but im not sure if there is any truth to it (kind of like rebadged zenon amps (cactus, older rd audio, dc audio, sundown, atomic)).

x2!! and the twista version absolutely banged in my truck.

As for the activation fee, all its for is to get the meter put in your name and gives you technical support and updates (which are very rare, and really only needed if you are running shows to keep up to date with things like phsyclone). Without it the meter will work with or without you paying to "activate" it. Many times you can find any possible trouble shooting tips or fixes the termpro forums free of charge. Most the times you can get them with a pos laptop for 400-450ish, or 300-400ish without a laptop, but they sell fast. As for only downloading from the cd one time, thats bs unless something new has been changed. Im going to go out and say we got it on at least 12 different computers (previous computers from our sound mekanix production rig, back ups, and at the shop).

LoL you n00b! You can even see the bent rim you have from you not hitting anything! Does aluminum bend itself? LOL

roflmao!! However shit, my tahoe rolling on stock aluminum 16s.. Id take some 20s, in any condition, even bright pink!! Lol pink wheels = gangsta!

oooohh burn! Tho he re-walled that car a few different times iirc, so as any audio build, its never finished and always changing

Bump Bump Bump!!! I still need 11 more neighbors on facebook to get my blue ribbon for local celebrity! My facebook is: http://www.facebook.com/home.php#/profile.php?id=1112715376

Oh and if you use ceramic brake pads, there is virtually no brake dust so keeping your wheels clean should be easy

gheyer then your avatar! :01nocomment8so:

Ive seen 3 times now from browsing in the last 20 some minutes that the LS v8 gaskets are "dealer only" product. So I think you maybe sol and stuck taking a raping up the pooper by Ford Even searched fel-pros site for them.

Maybe hit up the ford/Lincoln dealership parts department and see if they can get them? Im sure they can get whatever you need repair wise, but if its too expensive you maybe able to get the part number and try searching online by that.

I was thinking abot trying this once I get my new box built, got a lil fogger sitting in my dinning room

lols

Here you go mang!!! I shaved your handles, debadged it, put a nice lil drop, and some wheels yo!!! > >> >>> >>>> >>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>> >> >

Nope, this be PWK. :hairtrick:

Not really stingers fault that will happen to any brand wire unfortunately oxidizing sucks, have you been peeing on your wire by any chance? I hear that makes copper turn green faster lol thus is referring to a strict spl vehicle, not a daily driver which skittles has I believe.

ROFLMAO, Its all good. Im not here to bring up stuff from the past, unless your name is sable nave.

Im thinking this maybe part of your problem. With your stereo off, your coils should read a flat 2 ohm. You shouldnt have .5 ohms of resistance thru the wire, unless it is horribly small gauged wire or it is uber long. But if it is all 8awg wire it shouldnt have any side effect. Dcr of a coil shouldnt change much at all if at any with proper wiring. Id really suggust trying to hunt down that other .5 ohms of rise that shouldnt be there (id start by checking your solder joints). If your using bolts as speaker connectors on your box, Id strongly suggust making sure those are tight as can be and hopefully stainless steel is being use for said hardware. Anything else will corrode over time which will cause a resistive connection and possibly lead to that extra .5ohms If your feeling ambitious enough, a simple way to see if a bigger box would improve your impedance rise is to invert your woofers if it can be done in your setup.

My first concern is how you have a 2.5 ohm load? Do you possibly have a dead coil and or a coil that is not making a great connection? Maybe your solder failed? What ohm coils do you have? Also how do you have your speakers wired? Series, parallel, or a combo of both? Are you running a pos and neg from each coil to your amps? Do you have your coils wired together at the sub and then just one set of speaker wires per sub going to the amp? Do you have both subs wired together inside the box and then just 1 set of speaker wires going to the amp? Did you try unstrapping your amps and running 1 sub per amp to see if you would have less rise? Your asking for ideas, so im just shooting some out there.

If you have a pci-e 16x slot, you need that kind of video card, however a pci-e16 2.0 will work too, it just wont run at its max potential. I want to say a 2.0 is compatable in a regular pci-e 16 x slot, but a pci-e 16x card will not work in a pci-e 16x 2.0 motherboard. Im currently using a pci-e 16x 2.0 card in just a standard pci-e16x motherboard with no issues.

I agree, filling every corner of your box with a 45 is not needed. Many times if you build your box without them and meter it, then pour resin in each corner of your box to have a 45 often lowers your decibel score. Thats why I only try to do 45s that are relative to my port walls.

LOLs I dont know which was better! Logan and his guitar or SQMonte and his slip & slide :01nocomment8so: