audiofanaticz

I actually like these!! so much nicer looking than the kevlar composite DD cones I used back in the day... esp with the collar! can i just buy 6 18inch cones?

I want... I also want the: VU-Din LD-1 kthx! hmm seems like something is still missing from the want list.

Just to show the inaccuracy of the boom stick meter.. was playing with my buddies when he hooked me up with a free oil change. I even tried the thing in the legal dbdrag/bassrace position where the Termlab meter is usually placed. You can tell how far off the score is between these 2 vids. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u1UmH1DFYXY and here is one of my 149.9db bassrace runs, which is a constant 30second average on the Termlab meter. To do a perfect 149.9 db score generally you need to be around a 152db burp (give or take on a few variations). The termlab is the meter used by EVERY audio competition format in the USA, and also used by NASA, so it aint no toy like the boomstick! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_T7CZnOcNOk

meters are a joke, buddy had one and it read a constant 126 db in my truck with vocals only, and with subs on my truck would do mid 150s on the termlab, but it didnt change the boomstick score none!. So my truck should be way more than enough to peak the meter out, which it did not.

sexy lil woofers

You can say that about anyone tho. I'll can admit I done some fucked up shit in the past, mostly to people that had it coming and got seriously hurt, but I still made the decision to do it... guess it kinda makes me a bad person, but it always shows how i stick by my friends. no one is perfect.

You should always feel strange.. just sayin pumpkin *kisses* lol funny guy! you should see some of the kinky lingerie he wears.. wowzers!!!!

These kinda comments are not needed... I always tried to give him the same respect here about the shit talkers, as I did steve on his site. Keep it up, Im sure you wont last much longer on this site either, especially since things are going smoothly and your just stirring that pot because you where banned over there..... Always thought you where a level headed dude, dunno what happened.

LMAO... Some trolls never get good at doing it.. They need to take lessons... ha! Anyways welcome back Mr Price! Glad things got worked out, now hopefully it wont feel so strange helping out on both sites

respect and at least an attempt is being made to make the audio community that much stronger!

Tuning freq is useless most of the time. The box tuning is well below the boxes peak/loudest freq by at least 5+hz. The woofer is never the loudest at box tuning but the peak freq once cabin gain is all added into the equation. Normally your peak burp freq is the loudest score on the TL, but not always the most power, so that is always something to keep in mind. Sure you may get more power out of an amp at a lesser freq, but if your number is significantly lower with more power than your peak freq with less power why would that wattage matter? Id rather have a higher score to brag about than a lower score with more power. Food for thought! Normally clamp testing is done when your chasing numbers on the meter.

mostly when I clamp power from my amps Im clamping to see what kind of power im making at my peak burp frequency to test some things and change them if need be to see an increase of power or termlab score. If i just randomly clamp usually between 30-40hz or which ever seems to be the louder freq to the ear if no meter is used.

No, when you recone a woofer all you can change is the size of the woofer. IE you can recone a SA 12 into a SA 15 or vice versa. The sa-8 v1 can be upgraded to a sa-8v1.5 but not the sa-8v2 since its a completely different motor. When you are doing a recone you are changing the "soft parts" such as the surround, cone, spiders, and coil. At this time you can change to a larger or smaller basket and bolt it to the motor if needed but make sure you order the recone for the new basket size. The motor always stays the same, theres no way to change a 2.5inch coil motor on the sa into a 3inch coil motor of the zv2 or zv3 unless your buying a new motor, which at that point you might as well buy a new sub since companies dont sell just the motors.

Guess I will just lock this thread, and be the bigger man since I do know this issue Mlstrass has been having, but it will remained locked, since this forums has little to nothing to do with DC Power as they have not been a partner in a long time. I cant control if this thead gets deleted or not again. -Brian

It is something to worry about for being a new battery, My batteries where attempted to be stole from my old walled caddy and one was dropped in my driveway by the theif (it still leaks a lil) LOL it was not a new battery by any means. LOL I contacted the man in charge of the partners on the site so he will be chiming in soon.

thats like saying let me take a hammer to your brand new car, but it drives fine so why get it fixed No need to start trolling.. p4 contact Audiosavings ASAP about the battery is your best bet to help get this situation handled.

Thanks guys!! Tell ya what, you drive here from TX with your ride I will build you a free box

LMAO... Its there, just hiding under a lot of sawdust and old carpeting from my house to give it that extra cozy feeling

Thanks to all so far woo hoo!!!! gonna be a lot of people in a giveaway

Thanks everyone. should have more options on the page unlocked now Thanks bro, I try my best You could always drive to cold ass WI from FL too. hahaha

Thanks, and yes I do rebuild most woofers that are worth it. But Im really only doing locals and local competitors right now, not messing with the whole shipping mess right now. Also am a firm believe in using the manufactures parts to recone with, Often times their parts are the best for their woofers (often, but not always). The company is the one that took the time and money to do all the R&D work for their products, not I. So there for chances are you cant really squeeze much extra power handling out of them by using brand A parts in brand B woofers. Putting a stronger coil in it does not always help because at the end of the day that motor has to have the cooling to keep the coil with a higher wattage being put to it cool, or else you will just blow the sub(s) again. Like I said tho, this does not always hold true, and sometimes the company may just build their woofers with crap parts... If your just going to be doing burps with a woofer than its not too big of a deal vs you trying to rebuild the woofer to take more power on musical applications.

Simple favor to ask ya'll. I just created it the other night, and the more likes I get, the more options that get unlocked I guess. Hopefully this link works https://www.facebook.com/DirtFloorCustoms or if the above does not work https://www.facebook.com/pages/Dirt-...88937734463373 Just what I call my "shed" since it has a dirt floor, so Dirt Floor Customs is only natural. Pretty much do a lot of custom box building, fiberglassing, custom door panels/pods, Speaker repair and reconing, trouble shooting, etc for locals and those who dont mind to drive to me for work Thanks to all those that clicked "like" PS: I have a bit of old wire I took out of my truck, some of it is spoken for already however the rest I figured I would do a give away for once I get enough users to like my page. Possibly more give aways in the future as well

think yours look a little off due to you having "ads" on your page, where as mods/admins/gold/bronze/silver members have an additional "ad free" skin. Looks good, maybe it will load decent on the other pc with a retarted low res

seems as if the leads where a tad too long when soldered to the terminal, and with the reverse stroke of the woofer they started rubbing on the felt pad on the back side of the cone causing pre-mature failure.