kingsuv

The amount of accuracy depends on the scope. I think the point in all this that has been missed buy the scope owners is, What all do you use your scope for? I'm going to say that most of them only to use them to set gains. I myself use it for more then gain setting, but I am sure I am one of the very few that doesn't only mess in car audio. So for those of you that will never use a scope to its true potential a DD-1 is the smart buy. I know damn well, there will be one in my tool box one day for the quick and easy set for cars.

powerbass = garbage IMO.. RF = great quality. Great way to back up your opinion with some facts. Some will say Powerbass isn't the quality it use to be, then again some can same the same for RF. The ASA line is pretty good for the price point.

The seleniums are a very efficient driver, you will have zero issues getting them loud at 8ohm. Mine only get about 25w per and I have no issues with headroom.

I've only seen these in the 8ohm version. Other size selenium drivers do come in different ohm loads.

Congrats on that 155.7 That is a HUGE number out of a daily driver suv. Maybe we can pour a little more sand out of you box here soon. It would kick ass to see a 56

Looks familiar to what I txt him yesterday It's ok Timmy, we will get you up to speed one of these days

Yeah it is a little cheaper because it is also single wall insulation. It shouldn't be an issue as long as its installed correctly

You 2 can't be serious. Come on now. Posts like these drive me nuts. 1st of all if you have a bare spot in the power wire somewhere, you will not get a ticking noise. You will however get a spark, maybe a flame, and if you are not fused, possibly a fire. For the OP, If you have already taken the charging system out of the mix, like you say you have with the 2nd battery and the issue went away then it is with in the charging / power system with the car. Redoing the grounds and making sure that not only the stereo has a good grounding throughout the setup but also the car itself. Cars have crap for grounds and it only gets worse as the car gets older. Double check all those points as well. Next isolate the alternator out of the system. Unhook it and run the car. This will tell you if it is an alt issue or something else. it can be in the spark system of the engine. Coils, caps, plugs and wires can all be suspect and can be a pain in the ass to hunt down. I typically like to start with plug wires and work my way back one step at a time.

I'm sure there are several gallons of the bedliner and enclosure coating floating around just that we (more like one awesome person) couldn't get the formula just perfect, so it never went into large a production run. Need help getting rid of some? I would be interested in disposing of some of it for you

I wouldn't mind seeing a DIY spray on bed-liner system. It would also double as a good box coating system.

I put about 1000w to each of mine. Does the job nicely

Put your LED's in an acrylic tube and lightly wet sand the tube until it looks frosted.

God help us with the kids in the public school system

I would suggest reconing both at the same time.

The slipnslide can be found in any newly formed retention ponds. It's a geosynthetics clay liner. I worked for a company and we engineered projects like that all the time. Cool ass shit though, makes me wanna find when the next one goes in

I don't like to bash brands, but if it was my money, I would spend it with XS any day over the others.

So this product would be more like a Damplifier Pro XL? I have 4 shop packs in my truck and I'm still short quite a bit. Some places were doubled up do to the large spaces of unsupported material I was working with. I'm sure my application was over kill, but I don't have any unwanted noise and rattles. For my case, a thicker product would of been a benefit. I think most everyday systems it could also be a benefit as not everyone needs to coat their entire car to achieve great results. I think the key would to be to market this product as a cost savings alternative to using more of the damp products.

The problem with a flush cut bit is not the bit at all. Some bits work better in different types of wood. Same goes for saw blades. The problem you are seeing is that the bit is slipping more then cutting. The dust from MDF is a pain for the bit to clear and it gets trapped as the blade is turning. Sometimes you can correct this by turning down the speed on the router if its adjustable. When the wood smokes like that, it is most likely from either a dull edge or the result of pushing to hard as you make the cut. The key is to let the router do all the work. A light touch as it makes the pass and sometimes doing multiple passes will give you great results. For handheld router-ing, I like to use a spiral down cut so it throws off all the dust down into the box. When I router on the table I use an upcut bit so it helps keep the wood pulled to the table. A down cut on a table can lift the piece you are working with

Really depends on the bit, the material and the force. I would try slowing down not only the speed on the bit, but I would also put very little force on it as you work. Seams to work pretty well for me.

So you set the gains with a DMM and not a scope. So yes in theory you have set the amp to put out an X amount of power, However this does not mean it will not be putting out a clipped signal. I would start there, then look at the box design. If it is the wrong design for the type of music you like to listen too then it will be hard on your subs.

Gives Rusty a chance to work on the van

Air mail from Hong Kong isn't too bad, anywhere from 2 weeks to a month depending on the carrier. Shipping prices are about right for something that size too. However, It is always a gamble when ordering anything from overseas. Ask yourself this, It it's junk, are you prepared to throw it away? Because I can tell you, it will not be easy or worth it to try and return it or get a refund.

Only way I have ever done it. Hell I thought a bad was an official fender roller .

Alpine JUBA 3558 4ch amp always wanted one.

Man speaks the truth. I use Solarguard on all my trucks. Some of my tint has been on the truck for over 10 years now. Still as good as new. I also use these brands in commercial applications and have faith in their performance. If you want it darker then do another layer. Find a good tinter as some can easily fuck this up and ruin both layers. Another option for you is to do blackout film. I have done this many times for people wanting nothing to be seen on the inside. (like walls) The last option you can go for is to start with a mylar reflective tint like the Solarguard silver 10 and then do another layer of 5 over it. During the day the reflectiveness of the silver will overshadow most of the windshield back-lighting while having the additional 5 darken overall. I use a solar silver 20 on mine and it is more then enough to keep people from seeing into my trucks.Plus the reflective cuts teat transfer way better then standard