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One of your subs is wired backwards. Either that or one of em is dead and acting as a passive radiator. We have a bigger problem. You can't wire two dual 1 ohm subs to .5 ohms... Hope you're not actually wired at .25.

Alright, so this is gonna pretty much be my first build. Here's my design. Let me know what you think. All criticism, advice, changes, or complete new designs welcome. Fairly simple design. Everything look correct? I made it a bit large, since it's on low power. Should I go smaller or bigger or is this a good size? So is there anything else I need. Bracing, another baffle? Also thought I should mention I don't have a router, so no roundovers on the port. Is that a big deal?

Changing the bitrate to a higher value or even converting to a better file type isn't going to make any difference (other than taking up more space).

Sigh... These people are trying to help you. They know what the fuck they're talking about. If it flexes with that much power, it's not built right. They're trying to prevent you from making the same mistake(s). Rather than "learning on your own," why don't you take their advice, try it, and if it works, consider yourself learn'd.

Oh lol, I just read the article, didn't click on the link. Figured it was a scam.

I'm fuckin lost. Ask toolbar? Porn? Where did you get that URL? Who are you even talking to?

Now 450 was an absolute max best case scenario. It'll probably be a lot less than that. And what two amps are you talking about? The boss and the sony? For those two amps, you should be fine. Probably just do the big 3.

Well according to sonicelectronix, it has 30 amps of fusing, so, at MOST, you'll see ~450W. Any decent speaker wire should be fine for that much power. There's no such thing as too much. Does it hurt what? -And I wasn't talking about the subs. I know they're not that bad, just the amp.

So you asked for advice after you ordered? Fuck logic. If you can cancel your order, I'm sure you can get better for the money. Otherwise, use the boss amp, and wire like this:

Just use one amp. What model is your other amp?

*1 ohm or 4 ohms Not sure how overrated those subs are, but seems like they're a decent match for each other. Do you already have them?

Haha shit I didn't even know that about them. The terminals are the only thing I've bought from them. But I was planning on buying a stinger fuse holder. Perhaps I'll go a different route.

Didn't even notice that. However, I contacted stinger about this, and they said they used to be solid brass, but they changed to copper for "ease of crimping." So either darvex doesn't know about this or they haven't updated it yet. And like I said I grinded one down, and it looked like copper to me. I'm not an idiot lol.

microscopic? no.they are both made out of brass. the plating is just for looks for the most part. connectors are gold plated because gold wont corrode. its not to make a lower resistance connection, i dont care what their marketing team tell you. Just did some research and I guess you're right, it doesn't help to fill the gaps. I don't know where I heard that, but I've been believing that for years now lol. And I'm pretty sure they're made out of copper on the inside, I've ground one down with a dremel before (the chrome version). Plus why would they use brass when it's a worse conductor than even aluminum?

From what I've read, gold is a slightly better conductor, BUT in order to plate it in gold, they first have to plate it in chrome. Now you would think that the chrome is better since it only has one layer. This somewhat true, but remember gold is very malleable so it can fill all the microscopic gaps. So basically they'll be just about equal in conductivity. So just go with whatever looks better to you.

If you have two DVC .7ohm subs, you have essentially 2 options: series/parallel, final load .7 ohms series/series, final load 2.8 ohms (there's also parallel/parallel, but you get .175 ohms and that's unreasonable.) Basically, if you wire it in series, you add the resistances. If in parallel, you divide resistance by the amount of resistors (voice coils in this case).

That was painful to read. Try this: 1/0 and 0 AWG are the same.

Rule of thumb is if you're giving your subs less than RMS, you need a bigger box, if you're giving them more, then a smaller box. So If you choose to buy the sub, and keep the 250W amp until you can get a bigger one, then you can either build a new box each time, or just build it small for when you get the 1000W. If you do build it small the first time, then it will have less output at 250W than a bigger box, but you'll save money on wood. BUT, if I were you, I would just wait till you have everything, just so you can make sure everything fits together the first time. You never know if for some reason the new amp doesn't fit where you wanted it and you have to redesign the whole setup.

Neither really. You're always going to want to have the same drivers on 1 as you do on 2, and the same drivers you have on 3 as you do on 4. In other words, you want to have the same speakers on the right channels as you do on the left. I'd say just ditch the 3.5s. They probably aren't adding much anyway.

IIRC, 6 foot 7 foot is clipped pretty bad. Wouldn't play it on my system if I were you. But looks nice man. Also thinking about getting one of them subs now.

What do you mean the 45s should be measured? How I did them was I drew a line from the inside corner at 45 degrees and 1.5 inches long, and that's where i drew the 45's. So basically, from the inside corner to the closest point (the middle) of the 45 is 1.5". Figure, that way, it keeps the width of the port constant. Did I do that right or no?

May have found a simple fix for it. Just ended the port early, so that it actually bends back up. Makes the port a bit longer (33") so the tuning went down to 32.03Hz. Anyway, I'm going to bed now. Starting to feel like the guy who talks too much. Let me know if you want more info or whatever. Also, someone else confirm/validate my work? lol, would be cool to know if I did it right.

So, here they are. Hope it helps you. Kept me entertained for a few minutes. For all I know there's a super easy fix.

I COULD be completely wrong about this, but I just tried making it in sketchup for the hell of it, and I ran into a big problem. Basically, if I understand correctly, when you have a T-shaped port (which is what I think you mean by "turned to each side"), when it splits into 2 parts, each side basically continues the port from the vertical part. (In other words each horizontal length needs to be total port length minus the vertical length. At the same time each horizontal part has half the port area. SO, basically the vertical part goes down to 17" to the midpoint of the "split" part, then after that it needs to continue 15 inches in each direction. The interior width of the box is only 30.5" so basically you have .25" between the wall and end of port. Again, I'm not that experienced, so I could be wrong about how the T shaped ports work. tl;dr: The port is too long and is right up against the interior wall. It's late as hell, and it was hard to try to explain what was going on so I'll upload a pic of what I'm talking about.

I'm very sorry for your loss. But in all honesty I don't see how this will HELP you or your family. Why can't you just let the justice system take care of it?