sprkn_ranger

If its only happening at idle, then either your alt is bad, battery is bad, or you have a bad ground somewhere. That size amp shouldn't cause dimming.

Do you think it would do any good to call the post office tomorrow and ask them if they know where it's at?

I needed a single din dash insert for my car that has a double din slot stock. And it came with a wire harness for my car too so I just ordered it there.

Here's the deal, I bought a dash kit from eBay for my car and the seller showed that it was shipped on the 19th. The tracking number shows that it was accepted in Lakeland, Florida and it has been showing that since the 19th. Last week (Tuesday I think) I emailed the seller and he said that he would contact the post office. I emailed him again the following day and he said he found out that because the holiday craze the tracking system is updating slower than normal and that I should receive my package shortly. The estimated delivery date I originally got was the 26th and that has come and gone. Now I don't know if I'm over reacting but I'm starting to worry I got scammed. What do you all think and what would you guys do?

Like what? (I'm new at this stuff.) The 12s have more cone area that's why I said they would be louder Well for instance if the car you installing in doesn't have the room for the proper enclosure the 12's require, then te 10's potentially will get louder than the 12's. Also the 10's cone is less mass (doesn't weigh as much as) the 12's so theoretically it takes more motor force to move the 12's cone then it would the 10's.

Someone will correct me if I'm wrong but I believe the engine to bat is important cause that is essentially the ground for the alternator. The better the ground there, the better the charging system performs and the less chance of alternator whine caused from a ground loop.

I agree that wire through a drilled hole is best. It's cheaper too. The only advantage I see with the bolt terminals is ease of changing impedance.

I would imagine mechanical engineering, math, and electrical engineering would be some big ones to understand. Physics I would imagine is important too if your designing subs, but not 100% on that. Good luck man!

True, an old school o-scope will do, or just don't overpower it. But as a noobie hooking up his first system, I would say setting the gains right and knowing why is a very valuable thing to learn. And then when he does move up in equipment and price, he's got the tools and know how to set it all up right and protect his high dollar stuff. Hell when I was putting in my first system I had no idea that turning the gains too high clipped the signal, or even what a clipped signal was for that matter.

Man, someone should draw up a design on cad for a homemade jasper style jig and then post the file so it's easy to print. Then just get a bit of 1/4" mdf, attach printed template with spray adhesive and now you got yourself a cheap homemade perfect circle jig.

Yea my place only charges like $30 and that's after 5 days past due. I'd get outta that place quick. Maybe you can talk to the landlord and work something out. Good luck bro! And I +1 on the Dave Ramsey suggestion, very smart man with solid advice.

I'll try and draw you a diagram: Front batterry---fuse-------------------fuse---rear battery Basically your fusing the wire to prevent fires. So if you have more than one battery and the wire inbetween the battery's shorts on the frame or something the one fuse will blow but the other battery isn't fused so it shorts, the wire heats up and eventually catches fire. And you want to have the least amount of wire between the battery and fuse as possible so there is less wire to short out on something. So basically you want a fuse for every + wire that comes off of any battery and use the shortest amount of wire between the battery and fuse as possible. And always fuse to the wires rating.

Oh a and don't forget to put a fuse as close to the + terminals of all your battery's as possible. Having only one fuse inbetween two battery's is useless. Hope that made sense!

The only time a alt will damage anything is if the voltages are way high.

I'm I big fan of saving money. But I don't like to cheap out on things just to save a buck. I look at a few things when I buy something. First off I look at the price, then I look at my needs/wants of the product, then I look at comparable products. If prices are way different on comparable products there is most likely a reason why and not always cause of a "name". Build quality is another major thing I look at but is kind of hit and miss when buying online. If the quality of the build is integral to it's function then I usually won't buy it online without reviews from people I know either from forums or friends. I weigh all these things together to make my decisions. I know my advice isn't ground breaking or anything lol but it works for me. I've had a few bad "buys" but most of my stuff I'm happy with.

Man I'm so sorry for your loss...your family and his will be in my prayers.

That's pretty shady...I wouldn't even consider it.

Holy cone distortion batman!! Is that the camera that's making it look like that or is the cone actually distorting like that?

Yea but im not very steady handed and i really dont know what im looking at either lol. Id rather pay a doctor to remove a kidney than watch you tube vids and try myself you know. Yea it really isn't that hard, but I understand it can be intimidating if you don't really know what your getting into. Trust me it's not as daunting as removing a kidney :thumbsup: Just watch some YouTube videos on how to do it and you might be surprised to see its possible to DIY.

Not sure about the rest of your ?s but you might be able to find a kit that doesn't have a pocket in it.

Have you looked on YouTube to see of there is a tutorial? It's a long shot but worth a try. From looking at the picture, it looks like the outer most wood grain bezel comes off first. I've never taken one apart but I've taken many other dashes apart before and that's usually how they come apart. Good luck! Oh and that is a double din factory head unit so in order to get a single din head unit to fit you will either need to get a kit or fabricate something yourself. A kit is probably gonna be your best bet.

Yea I was going to make sure it's taped off real well, no need to make more work for myself than needed! Lol Edit- Shoot I just noticed your username, what kind of bike you got? I'm new to all of it so I'm trying to learn the ins and outs of it all!

I recently acquired a mountain bike that is in need of some work. I plan on dismantling the bike all the way to the bare frame and then stripping the paint to bare metal. The plan is to paint it a flat/satin white color. I'm thinking that automotive paint is going to be my best bet but what brand is best for what I want to do? I would like it to be pretty durable but I know rattle cans have their limitations. What is the PROPER procedure to make it look the best it can? Should I wet sand in between every coat of primer and paint? And what kind of clear/protecting coat should I use considering I don't want it to be glossy? Thanks in advance!

I'm sure there is a bus or something that can get you close enough to walk there.

I remember there was this guy in the adventuredome (sp?) at the circus circus in Vegas that did this. He was freakin amazing at it, I wish I took some pictures of his work but it was years ago before digi cams and cell phone cams were common place, maybe 10 years ago. But I remember it was a trip to watch him do it.