Tarball

Use a relay and fuses and connect it to your amp. This way you can see your voltage at the amp. pull from the Remote + in to the amp to activate the relay. (fuse it) pull from the + in on the amp to send power through the relay to the VM (fuse it) ground the VM The relay will come on when you power on your amps It will tell you the voltage at the amp.

In my opinion, you really need more under the hood - 2nd alt. You can keep adding batteries but you dont have a sufficient source of amperage. Batteries only store power, they don;t produce it. You can add batts and monitor voltage and adjust your sound to let the batts charge up again as an alternative.

Define cheap. How much do you have in budget for your system? How much wiggle room do you have with your budget? ***edited for spelling***

To answer the generic question "When is a HO Alt needed?" A High Output Alternator is needed when your total potential amp draw of your audio system and accessories added to the total potential amp draw of your vehicles electrical system exceeds the output of your existing alternator. Though there are other things that can mitigate the voltage drop (adding batteries (power storage), monitoring voltage, etc) an adequate power source (Alternator(s))is the root of the electrical needs of any given application.

Shuriken is good. If you can, get xspower. A few more bucks and you can get one new.

slam it! Change rims if you have to. But if you do it, do it right. You don't want to end with a crappy ride.

Thanks for the post. I'd like the one that plugs into the amp.

Hot Glue Silicone Caulking Snot mixed with flour etc etc

The only wires should be the big red one (factory big is about 8ga) and the plug in for the voltage regulator. Do you have more than that?

Dibs on the lanyards.

BUMP

haham that's why I love Florida. Worse thing that happens is a hurricane that is predicatable days and weeks ahead of time. Well, except for them tornadoes that went through Central Florida back in the 90's that was more an act of God though...was living on Lake Apopka at the time.

It's actually power if you think about it. Current and a given Voltage = Power. Current with no volts = no power. Lol well 1 tiny strand can delivery the same 12 volts the 1/0 can now put current threw them wich one delivers? You can try to argue with me all you want but let's speed this up you lose but not the same amperage. not trying to argue just saying your point of "its current not power" is mute.

It's actually power if you think about it. Current and a given Voltage = Power. Current with no volts = no power.

It all comes down to how much current the wire can handle over how much distance and what your system will draw. To each their own I say, as long as the end result is wire that will handle the load and deliver the power it needs to. Me, I'm lazy. Rather have 1 or 2 runs of OFC than 4+ runs of CCA to deliver the same power.

IT really comes down to how much power you are going to run through the wire. If its a small to moderate system you should be able to "get away" with CCA. But I would use OFC KNU. For a standard big 3 you don't need much wire and it doesn't make sense to go cheap on a major part of the electrical system. I am all about saving money but part of being frugal is spending money on the right stuff the first time.

Send them back and get the correct product.

T would get complicated. If its a tru basic T then you would get cancelation . the T part would need to be 1/2 the area of the rest of the 6" port. Stick with either an L or a few 45deg elbows well place . It will be simpler.

I've used a type R before in a bandpass (single 12") and they are a nice sub for the price and all things considered. What type of sound are you trying to get out of them? Check this box design out, I've always wanted to do one but your situation seems like it could fit, you would iso the subs. http://www.decware.com/whornok.htm

Do still have another 0 to 4ga distro block left ?

chek your ohm reading on the coils (individual) just to see if there is any variation swap the subs in the box and see if the same one gets warm

^^ this I would only do this if the amp has an internal fuse. Ask the guys at Sundown and see what they say.