Kevin M

I think my subs are pretty great for the cost. I won't be breaking any records with them but as far as entry level subs they work great. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-475 Don't need much power either... Which can be a consideration for alot of people. (300RMS/450max lol) 3 18" in a sealed wall did 145.8 outlaw and now that it is ported I am sure it is closer to 150 then I have ever been and that is on bullshit power (1500 watts).This is an alternative if you don't have the option of dropping 1k+ on subs and another thou on electrical upgrades and an amp. Just something to consider.

Looks like it could be a good match. I would like to hear a pa mid and a soft dome together. Sounds like winning to me. The mids will be a little louder due to the dif. in sensitivity but that should work fine. There are some higher sensitivity tweeters that cost more or less if you wanted to entertain some other options. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=277-084 http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=275-085 These are big bastards for sure but they are awesome drivers. Either one of these would work too.

Worked on mine for over a year and just got it done. Other things always get in the way. Like having to buy a lawnmower (power assist ftw) and refrigerator for a new house or replacing a sensor in your expedition because the transmission just started to act wonky and go 5 miles an hour in drive. lol I have to keep reminding myself to stay the course and be patient. It will get done even if it's not as timely as I like. I can tell you it's a hell of a lot easier to do this at 35 then it was at 25. haha

You can wall it like he mentioned. You can also add more cone area or more power or both lol. That will give you more output.

I was looking for a volvo station wagon or a crew cab I could turn into a walkthrough. That would be a little different. Mechman makes a 275amp alt for our cars. You can fit 6 18" in our cars. You just need to cut out the rear deck and build into the trunk. lol Just wait and see this fall. hehehe

Clean ride

I have it in my doors and in my subwoofer wall. This is in my wall... http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=260-515 A picture through the port of it installed... and this is what I use for my doors. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=260-525 For the subwoofer wall it helped tame some peaks it had and felt it made for a more even freq response.(30-60hz) It won't remove standing waves per se but it will eliminate some higher frequencies. With the doors it greatly improved the midbass response and seemed to add a large amount of depth to the frontstage. I could hear the difference immediately. Well worth the 30 bux it cost.

When I saw the thread title I was expecting this lol It's cool though

Had two 18" in an IB config in my malibu last year. Sounded awesome and disappeared on most tracks. Couldn't even tell where the bass was coming from. They can get quite loud with the right drivers and power. You won't be touching 50's though but that isn't the point of IB. I didn't have enough output so I changed. If I were to do a sq build in a sedan this is the way I would go. Multiple drivers is the key. Believe it or not there is some sq guys that are using 2 or 3 of the Pyle Blue wave15". They say they are great in this config.

I have a 10" in my doors so yeah I have a ton of midbass. I can tell you that my eq has been turned down at 125 and 315hz. I have a pretty big peak in that freq area. This is a good thing though. I would rather eq it down then have to boost it if I didn't have enough.

A box could help with lower freq. 500 and below. Give it a shot. I would imagine in between .25 and .75 cubes would be more than adequate.

Your first 150 is always awesome. At first you can't believe how loud it is; that it could even get that loud. I sat in the Rockford demo van for my first and then Audiofanaticz gave me a 154 demo and it felt so much louder. haha Then you sit in a 160 and it's a whole other level of crazy. I wanted to tap. Barney gave me chest pain. lol I was fucked up for a few minutes after I got out of it. Don't know how Mike (mlstrass) says he's used to it. I would be happy with a 150-155.

You can hit me up and I can try to answer any questions that you have. I have a horn tuning treatise if you want I can pm that to you if and when you get a pair. People talk about how they are difficult to tune and need 1/2 to 1/3 octave eq's as they have a couple nasty peaks in the vocal region (2,4,and 6k being the worst offenders) and drop off around 16k. My passenger side midbass is wired out of phase as is the drivers horn. It seemed to bring the stage up almost to eye level despite their locations under the dash. The eq part is mostly true but I only have a 7 band at the moment and I think they sound really great. There is a big benefit only having 4 speakers in your frontstage as well and they are so efficient that they get quite loud on 30 watts due to the sensitivity. 111db1W1M There is also the fact you have no xover point in the vocal region which is critical. I have mine x-over at 1.2k @24db/octave. I'm not sure why they fell out of favor. Maybe it's because most people now just want plug and play and there isn't anything wrong with that...I guess. Cost is another factor. As I mentioned above you're already in it 500 bux before you do any fabrication, dsp, etc. As far as I know they are out of business. I got my lenses from Woofersetc.com after doing some research and talking with Eric Stevens (owner of Image Dynamics and designer of the horns) He is on DIYMA. I am considered a heretic (Not by Eric, but others) due to my integration of the horns in an spl configuration. When you think about it though it's the natural evolution of the horns, due to their efficiency and dynamics. I wish I could come down that way I could give you a demo like we talked about before but it would be a mission from the Chicago burbs' lol.

I use them in my car and for the cost of the horns, drivers, and eq you could get a sick 3 way comp set. They are really efficient. I have the image dynamic horns. They are still easy to find if you know where to look. My setup cost ~$400. not including the midbass in the doors so a figure around 500 is pretty accurate. Worth every penny though. You need an efficient midbass to keep up with them. I have a 10" on 8x the power than the horn and at 91db 1W/1M they are having trouble keeping step. There is also debate as to whether the midbass driver should be the same diameter as the horns mouth length. ~12" One of the reasons I am going to try a 12" PA driver. A couple pics of my horns and the ones Richard Clark had in his dash. I think he was using 2" compression drivers. JBL or TAD's; over a grand a piece! I can't remember which... The beasts. I heard they weighed over 50 lbs. lol They have become smaller as you can see. The ones I have crossfire extremely hard due to the center console. That's why I chose the full size horn bodies. The mini's are even smaller and couple to the dash much better.

You could buy a couple of these http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=266-472 or you could call PE and they will build you a custom set for around the same price.

It works. I used to be into it when I was in my twenties. Stephen La Berge wrote a good book on the subject. It is hard to master for sure... But when you get better you can do all kinds of crazy stuff. Like chronicle except in your subconscious. Lol

I have done all my videos with my ipod but I would definitely like to go the hd route and get something with a better fps rating. They don't sound too bad for what it is though.

You could try Diyaudio or Audiokarma. I can spend an hour reading there easy. Maybe you need more subscriptions. I have over 90. Fresh content all the time. Most are car audio but you could try Mahoganysessions (acoustic live performances), fps russia (guns guns guns lol). Funny website. Stick figure death theater http://www.sfdt.com/showcase/ In the meantime here is a vid that should keep you engaged for 15 minutes lol

I went out this morning and took them. I just put the cam in side the port

hahaha Thx bro. It's a long read but worth it if you want to get a better idea on it's applications The foam has only been in there for about 3-4 weeks. It wasn't in when you heard it. You'll need to get another demo.

Polyfill works, so does egg crate foam but they work for two different reasons. You can use it in ported enclosures, it just needs to be stapled to the interior wall. There needs to be a clear path or transition for the air to travel through. I have 8 pieces of 2 1/4" egg crate foam in my wall. Looking through port... Rear wall of the wall lol It could be a placebo effect but I definitely felt I was louder over the same freq. range with it than without. (25-60hz) Better attack and decay. Now that it is ported the foam is still inside. If your ported enclosure is on the small side you can use poly to help but from what I have seen it tends to lower the tuning freq. 3-10hz from what I have read. Some HT cats throw whole pillows in their enclosures which contain the polyfill. lol There is also diminishing returns when you try to stuff more than 1 lb. per cu. feet regardless of the alignment the drivers in. Sadly, no one has done any experiments so most of my info is anecdotal just based on what I have read and firsthand experience. Here is an interesting article on the subject... This information was taken from an article by Tom Nousaine, Car Stereo Review, March/April '95 It's no secret that you can use fiberfill to make low-end magic; clever installers have been using it for years. Take two boxes of the same size and type, insert the same woofer into each one, and stuff one with some fiberfill. The one with the stuffing should kick out lower bass. In simple terms, it works like this: The fiberfill fools the woofer into thinking that it's in a larger box (one with more air, or internal volume) than it really is. And, in general, the larger the box, the lower the bass you can get out of it. Fiberfill stuffing is a popular alternative for people who can't or don't want to allow a lot of space for a subwoofer box. The particulars of fiber stuffing are pretty interesting: The air inside your enclosure actually heats up as your woofer moves, making the air stiffer. When the enclosure is stuffed with fiber, the fibers wiggle, dissipating some of the heat and making the system work as though the box were larger. Theoretically, your woofer/box bass system can act like a system that's a maximum of 40 percent larger when you've latched onto the right stuffing recipe – in other words, if you have an enclosure that offers 1 cubic foot (1 ft³ ) of internal volume, in a perfect world a good stuffing job will make it perform like an enclosure that offers 1.4 cubic feet of internal volume. There are three types of stuffing that are commonly used for this purpose: fiberglass insulation, long-fiber wool, and polyester fiberfill. Fiberfill is the best choice because it doesn't come loose and fly around and irritate your skin or lungs like fiberglass, it works as well as either of the others, it's a lot cheaper than wool, and moths hate it. I recently bought five 20-ounce bags of it at $1.99 a pop (a total of 6.26 pounds for $9.95) at Minnesota Fabrics; that turns out to be about $1.60 a pound. You should be able to find some at any fabric store or in the bedding section at friendly stores like K-Mart or Home Depot. To evaluate the effectiveness of box stuffing, I used an MLSSA analyzer to measure the impedance of three enclosures – 5.l-cubic-foot sealed, 1.4-cubic-foot sealed, and 1.4-cubic-foot ported (the port measured 3 inches in diameter and 6 inches in length) – with various densities of stuffing. For the sealed boxes, I was able to determine the effective box size – as enhanced by the stuffing – using the system's resonant-frequency and Qes values. For the ported box, I compared the tuned frequency of the empty enclosure to the tuned frequency of the stuffed enclosure, using the Speak for Windows computer program; this enabled me to find the effective box size that fit the actual resonant frequency I'd measured. In each case, the news was good – make that very good. With all three boxes, I enjoyed roughly 25 to 35 percent of "space gain" by using stuffing at a rate of 1 to 1.75 pounds per cubic foot of internal volume. When making system performance predictions, be aware that the Qes figure – and, therefore, the Qts figure – of the sealed boxes dropped. And with the ported box, the peak of the impedance curve on the lower side of the tuned frequency became heavily damped below the box's point of resonance. I also found that there is such a thing as too much of a good thing: System resonance (Fsb) rises again, beginning with densities of around 1.5 pounds of stuffing per cubic foot of box volume; this happens because the fibers are jammed so tightly together that they stop wiggling and, consequently, stop dissipating heat. I also found that stuffing gets less effective as box size increases. The morale: The bigger your box is, the harder it is to fool your woofer. A few rules of thumb: Stuff small enclosures – those with up to about 3 cubic feet of internal volume or less – with 1.5 pounds of fiberfill for each cubic foot of internal volume and you should get about a 30-percent increase in box volume without seriously affecting other performance variables. For larger enclosures, add stuffing at a rate of approximately 1 pound per cubic foot and you should get a virtual-space boost of about 25 percent.

Sometimes the change of shape happens when they are not fully cured or don't contain enough layers to retain their shape. 3-5 base layers of a good chop matte in layers should have the strength. The foil works great and you don't want to make a mold and spend 15 minutes trying to remove it lol. I've been there. lol It's cool that you are trying though and it is the only way to get good. I see alot of scaredy cats on here thinking fiberglassing is something that is mystical or only done by people in hazmat suits. lol

Eh. Considered it. I actually thought about a bass tunnel. I might just put two in at first and then do the wall. I mean, I'll eventually have a family and stuff, but lets be honest. I've only filled my entire car once, and my girl has her own car now so I never have to pick her and her sister up from school anymore. So my back seat never gets used. 4 15" in a trunk has that impossible feeling to it. Two of them would be pretty crazy. No need to jump into a wall till you're ready. Big commitment lol

So you are going to do a wall then? I know noiseycricket (Anthony) has 4 15" in a bandpass in his malibu same as ours so it certainly is possible. Why not just go ported? It would save you a ton of room and you could build it outside the car. Yes I was lurking. lol and Dayton kicks ass. Just wanted to throw that out there lol Is this your card...http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-420

Looks like good product poorly installed