CleanSierra

Um, how did I miss this?!?!?! Anyway, proceed Meade. How many miles are on this van I wonder. If it was a heavily loaded van, beware of transmission demons hiding inside....

Why would you spam someone else's thread with this garbage?!?! If you need help make a thread. If no one helps, bump it to the top occasionally. Help will come if you are really wanting it.

OP I notice you've already had a for sale thread locked. You enjoy trolling? Post dumping to raise post count until you hit the magic 150 mark? N8 is watching for sure and if you are INDEED trolling it post dumping, he will drop the hammer no doubt. He also hates P&S threads dude.

Oh, for fucks sake, another one of THESE threads!?!?!??

I have never used my twitter acct before today. You gave me my first reason Steve. I reported that fool, it's a shame he has no identity of his own.....whatevs though.

What? ^^^^ I'm not sure what you mean "the one posted below works". If you're referring to the link you posted, yes, those are the side mount adapters I'm using and they are glorious. You'll be pleased with them. I ordered them when I ordered my battery from SonicElectronix.com

That's how I'm running mine, with the I-bar mounts. They were well worth the money, plus have double posts(or potential for double posts) up top.

I have that same amp that I only ran for about a year to a set of components. If you're interested in it, let me know. Sorry, that was cryptic. I have the Fosgate Prime 125.2. I ran it at 2 ohms and 4 ohms in different setups. It will run all day with no problems.

Way to bump your own thread 7 minutes after your own comment....

I've NEVER run shielding on any of my wire, but have always had a full size pickup. I've always been able to keep my wire from heat and also from rubbing. I've had power and grounds run for years that never wiggled, burned, or rubbed. Take your time planning your routing and you don't have to shield. The insulation is on the wire for a reason.

I would think this would be locked, but since n8 is clearly asleep on the job, I'll add this: I totally saw a for sale attempt being made. You said in your other post that you didn't know about not being able to sell here? You ACKNOWLEDGED in post 4, and 23 I believe in the other thread that you weren't allowed to sell on this forum yet. You WERE given options on how to sell your custom sub, none of which were the ability to sell on here. A few kind members informed you that you couldn't sell yet since you didn't have enough posts. You THEN proceeded to make a For Sale thread anyway. The reason that there is a post minimum on this forum is to avoid potential scammers s best we can. The fact that you started asking questions about dumping a sub that is "custom"(it's a great LOOKING sub by the way, don't get me wrong), without ever having played it, would make me nervous as a buyer. You're new here, you advertise a sub that has never been used that a buddy made and all of a sudden you don't have the time or money to install. This would make many, myself included suspicious. You've kind of marked yourself as a potential fraudster at this point, and some, N8 especially will probably have a special attention to your future threads from this point. And since I know you didn't read the rules the first time, I'll post this helpful advice: Now that you've tried to sell, knowing beforehand that you couldn't, and went ahead and tried anyway, don't get your post count up by what is considered post dumping. Continually bumping your own thread with a few words at a time, or commenting on other threads with random "looks good" or "wow" is not a satisfactory way of getting your post count up. The way it works is by proving that you can be a valuable member around here and either give advice to someone else, or receive advice from someone else. That's about all I can think of at this time, have a nice day. P.S. Welcome to the forum, I don't believe anyone has said this yet.

What vehicle are you running? Singer should have a great price on an alt that would likely come in cheaper than the DC. Seeing as this is a daily vehicle that you've already said will not be doing comps, I personally wouldn't run .5 ohm. I'm not at all saying that it can't orde done, but for the power you're running, it just seems silly. Why create that much heat and strain on your electrical system when running at 1 ohm will give you plenty of power for what you need. Efficiency isn't terribly great on running such a low impedance. I'm definitely on board for you getting more battery reserve and more battery reserve. I really think daily on .5 ohm is unnecessary.

Dude, you'll have 2 2200 watt amps that do rated power at 1 ohm. DONT go to .5, that's dumb and not needed.

I don't know if you can find an amp as powerful as you're looking for in that price range. I paid 250 used for my Fosgate T400-4. It's super clean power, but nowhere near the power you're looking for. The C1100.4 is listed at 419.99 directly from Cresendo. That's not a bad price for a beast of a four channel.

6 cubes will sound like ass, that's only room for one ported 15". You seem pretty hell bent on trying to get 2 15s in the trunk. Others have told you it's not ideal. 2 12s in a proper box will play MUCH better and get louder than 2 15s in a cramped not ideal environment and a box too small. Everyone suggested one sub or 2 12s because you don't have the space required to run your 2 L5s correctly. If you are still intent on doing this, best of luck to you. Please posts pictures and let us know how the progress is on the build.

Why do you guess the Type Rs blew? Who built the box for the type Rs? Do you have any pictures of your current setup?

OldsBoomer is also a rep I BELIEVE

I'm in Highland. Are you from NW indiana too? @ CJ appreciate the help man but I got designs from Joe X and built the box a couple weeks ago. ill post some pics up I need to create a photobucket account You didn't get a "design" from Joe, you got a copy and pasted guess. Who knows what the enclosure will perform like, because he sure as hell probably doesn't...

Btw, no idea what "ust icking" means...

You don't seem to care about blowing equipment, you only seem focused on how to get your amp to put out 4000 watts. In the REAL WORLD(with voltage drop and impedance rise) you will NOT see 4000 watts. Who knows if the amp is truly capable of the 4000 anyway... A proper box would be one that was built to be efficient and have minimal rise FOR the vehicle it's built for. Proper electrical is HO alt, runs of OFC 1/0 gauge that is run correctly. The wire needs to be grounded correctly for the LEAST possible amount of resistance. Resistance=Heat Heat=loss of efficiency and power. Battery power for capacitance is crucial. A couple Group 31s and a biggest battery possible on the hood. To answer your questions though: No one can predict or tell you exactly how your setup will perform or what kind of voltage drop you may see. No one KNOWS what kind of watts your amp will push when all is said and done. The only thing we can tell you is to build your system, as good as you can. THEN if you're so curious about how many watts you're pushing, get a DMM and a clamp meter and measure for yourself.

Beautiful square waves

What kind of electrical are you thinking about running if .5 ohm is what you're thinking. If I were you, I'd be smart and either get dual 1s or dual 4s and run and 1 ohm. Don't buy dual 2s and run .5 ohm. You starve that amp for voltage because your charging system can't put out the current for half ohm, and poof goes the amp(and other components potentially). The BC is a great amp, but just let it do it's work at 1 ohm. Unless you are seriously prepared to back up your electrical to run .5 ohms. To me, 250 watts isn't worth it to go from 1 ohm to .5.

Birthdays gonna birth..... Have a good one sir, you deserve it

I gave you an answer, it was appropriate. You are asking questions that are valid and you are receiving responses that are also valid and justified. Will the amp like .5 ohm daily, who knows, probably not. Not a bunch of amps will like .5 ohm daily. I have no idea about you skills, previous installs, or knowledge. I'm left to assume by the way you can coherently get your point across. Your question was answered simply, DAYS ago. I was very helpful then, as I will continue to be. Good luck with your install, whichever route you take. I'll be happy to give advice if needed.

Once again, you are not REALLY going to get 3000W with voltage drop and impedance rise. If you don't have the electrical to back up .5 ohms don't do it, or you're right, equipment will fail. Good electrical means high output alternator, few batteries, Big 3 upgrade and knowledge when to turn the volume down.