Joe X

Provided that you paid a lot of attention on correctly entering all your data and make sure the units correspond to what is specified by the manufacturer you do get some insight of what actually want to build and what don't additionally: 1 your subsonic can both prevent sub damage and hurt your output if not set exactly right WinISD lets you create filters and see the effect on excursion. 2 after building and sealing the wall + deadening your resonant frequency has gone up. 3 with those not to common wall builds on sedans suspension sometimes has been affected, may be a good ideal to get lighter wood or other measures you might think of. 4 at this point talking to competitors would be most beneficial for you.

A couple of things: 1) to confirm your suspicions on how the subs will react use modeling software to get insight on, A ) if Xmax is passed either below or above tuning on intended power and box specs B ) what's the proper port area. WinISD will suffice for that. Once you confirm your box specs then....... 2) Get yourself a SPL meter before starting your tests, there are many decently priced like the SSA, those are like $300 or so for the basic models I believe. Wish I had more time these days like you to play with car audio gear. have fun.

You can easily do 6 subs, port across the center, > 160 square inches 3 subs above 3 below, still at 2.25 net and 26 square inches of port per driver, easier to power, two subs or 3 per amp. Not that I don't get what you are getting at giving 2.7 is just that some DD audio 612s are some of the ones born to work like that.

Yes, you shouldn't get any port noise as you are running the same port area per driver as before, Bottoming out could be more of a real possibility if you were to up power with new amps and not bring down internal volume, (entry level subs generally are not expected to have overly stiff suspensions). As far as ports go the longer port is less efficient than the short one, for a given port area and length two ports are less efficient than a single one, the port with flares is way more efficient than the one without them likely up to 3dB. If you can't find proper port area round ports octo is a possibility, you just build many of them to rapidly swap them. BTW wall and deadening change your resonant frequency, likely will higher.

Port area depends on the driver itself, box size, power and tuning frequency. No params are available for the drivers SO just guessing, you were doing 26 square inches per driver last time, with the 12" port it's like 28 square inches so you know maybe, flares help a lot, what's too large is the box size, more than 2.5 net per driver, on a lot of power those drivers are going to bottom out below tuning very likely. Also I would do double layer in the baffle and probably the rear wall and a bunch of cross braces between them.

Nice bass knob upgrade, the limiter is an interesting function, with such analog audio processors it was popular to upgrade op amps to high end ones, unhappily with the use of surface mount chips, its a little more impractical to swap them, still the TL074s it has are decent ones. Let us know how you liked it.

You could post this in your own build thread and follow up as you progress, anyhow, my first feedback would be: Dims for a box in a tahoe were 49 W, 25 H. 29 D without removing the second row, that was enough for 4 15s ported no problem. If you want to get loud cone area is king, more important than any other parameter in your system, once you have the best subs and the box design that fits then you choose amplification and electrical, not before. Besides your system, deadening is most important, at higher power, loses to flex can make you lose any gains highly expensive upgrades could have given you. Also never do any estimates on how loud some equipment will get, if you go to a comp and you saw X equipment doing Y dBs in your same car that means you could possibly get as loud but even then if your install is inferior to the vehicle you saw you will not get anywhere near as loud.

That would never work, a 3" round port has a port area of 7 square inches, they say 30 square inches, you could do 20 square inches at the very leas but 7 is a no go.

Did you talk to the manufacturer of the alternators you intend to purchase?

If you plan to fire the subs (or port) up that is going to turn out bad. Also it's a great idea to build a test fit box but you do it from cardboard as if you have issues you can resize the box relatively easy and it's much lighter. Anyways congrats on the persistence, it's been a while but you keep doing more and more.

Unless you can do the port external to the box you will have to do sealed, your subs driver displacement is 0.15 x2 subs = 0.3 2.3 cubic feet gross - 0.3 = 2 cubic feet net or 1 cubic feet net per driver, what the drivers need SO no airspace available for the port. The minimum port area you need for those subs is 20 square inches per driver so 40 square inches is the minimum port area. So 2 cubic feet net and 40 square inches of port area and a tuning of 36Hz needs a port that is 36.4" in length.

You need a LOC to interface an amplifier with any high level signals, amp, head unit or whatever provides signal except if the amplifier accepts high level signals. Secondly the voltage at the amp power input terminals should stay above 12V at all times, specially when you are playing music loudly. Check you have the above right since having any of those wrong could damage an amp.

Not working with jokers would be a start I guess. You should be more specific on what exactly is your situation.

I guess you like the difficult route, I would get a couple of stock DC audio level 5 12 and a 8K amplifier and that would get crazy loud and pretty simple and fast to get done.

Two SKv2-3500.1D strapped will provide 7000W @ 2ohm minimum stable impedance, you can reach two ohm final with four D4 subs wired in parallel coils wired in series.

You need a perfect electrical system to run full bridge amplifiers ( like taramps ) or else those amps will give problems or fail. People buy these amps like crazy because of the price but then, the cost of running a near perfect electrical system is so high that may cost many times what you save on these amps in many cases. Research the many not so expensive half bridge options out there, These days almost all amps go through THD tests including the SMD AD-1 which show tested amps doing at least rated power within 1% THD, those test have been performed on the JP amplifiers as well as others. So any amps passing the tests should play reasonably clean and you should not be able to find a night and day difference between them. Sure enough audition before buying whenever possible. Some Taramps units have shown show some barely noticeable background noise when the amp is not playing, many people can't notice it and these amps have been a success either way.

the input sensitivity of your amp is: Low Level: 125mV–5V High Level: 250mV–10V So set to amp level to high and the output voltage of the epicenter to 10V and that should work.

If you tested them at home before installation and found them to sound ok on the guitars and after installation not then the issue is in the install. It's important to audition equipment before installing because drivers have their own sound signature which one may agree or not, tone controls, equalizers and such cannot always make one thing to sound like another.

Don't think Bluetooth has anything to do with it but you can place the same files on USB and see what happens. You could get some different test tones from elsewhere. Also a you should cold reset your head unit before any tests, all setting should be at zero. But as I told you I would test the DD-1 to be working correctly before reaching any conclusions.

Check your DD-1 to be operating correctly with another audio source, say another head unit.

Two subs of different sizes in the same box, that's a no go, just saying.

You can learn a lot just from reading older posts, I guess almost any questions you may have has been addressed at some point in these forums, for example if you want a discussion on how narrow your port should be read this: If you want to figure out the effects of tuning, I can tell you that the best tool you already have which is the bassbox software, but if you actually want o find out how it actually sounds, you cannot be told that, you need to experience it by building and testing enclosures. The software to draw the figures is called sketchup, kind of hard to use at first but it's free to use. let us know your progress on your build, you will learn a lot just by getting it to perform well, that's why I posted those two vids, get your system to perform better than them and you will know you are getting good at designing systems. recheck all the concerns I had with your system and see what you can come up with.

Also you can check the following vids to see how much performance other people have managed with your same sub, review their system specs and maybe ask some questions? Since these guys use and know brazilian components you can get better answers on stuff available in your country.

So I just wanted to see how is your system and I must say that your system is pretty nice and you do have a mulltimeter and a portable scope which should be enough for you to get it to work perfectly, the areas of concern that I see and may hurt your output are the following: 1) In the past system you show in the pics there seems to be no space for rear batteries so apparently you were running the system on the front battery only. 2) the enclosure you show there is no port visible and if there is a port on either side it wouldn't have enough clearance to work properly so yes a new ported enclosure should help you to get louder. 3) The stock alternator you mention of 60A could have a hard time recharging your batteries and could get damaged over time if you play your system loud for anything more than a few minutes a day and you would need to play your system a low level for a big while the alternator recharges your batts, you need to either get an aftermarket a high output alternator or use an external charger to keep your batts charged and help your current alternator from overworking . 4) Don't know if your amp actually puts out the claimed power, many soundstream amps put out much lower power than they claim, if so you could be losing output there. 5) Don't know of you went through a proper gain settings procedure BUT your DSP have an amplitude limiter function which should ensure that once it's setup you will not experience clipping as long as your head unit does not clip. Please read carefully the above points and seek to address the issues to get better performance in your current system.

So before anything I would like to know your situation, do you have a working system that is not performing well and you want to improve it? If the sub has currently an enclosure, do you have specs? Do you have any pics of your system you would like to share?