Keith77

P2195 O2 snesor signal biased/stuck lean B1S1 Description: A heated oxygen sensor inticating lean at the end of a test is trying to correcto for an over-rich condition. The test fails when the fule control system no longer detects switching for a calibrated amount of time. Possible Causes: Electrical: Short to VPWR in the harness or HO2S Water in the harness connector Open/shorted HO2S Circuit Corrsoion or incorrect harness connections Damaged HO2S Damaged Powertrain control module (PCM) Fuel System: Excessive Fuel Pressure Leaking\contaminated fuel injectors Leaking pressure regulator low fuel pressure or running out of fuel vapor recovery system Induction System Air leaks after the mass air flow sensor Vacuum leaks PCV system is leakiing or the valve is stuck open Improperly seated engine oil dipstick EGR System Leaking gasket Stuck EGR Valve Leaking diaphragm or EVR Base Engine Oil overfill Camshaft Timing Cylinder compression Exhaust leaks before or near HO2S Edit: Without hooking up to the scanner and seeing the fuel trims and live data some of the above would be hard to diagnose.

Seems like you should take it to a different shop. Just caus the light isnt on doenst mean that they can see what is going on. The computer has a memeory and will in the history. They can also see the "freeze frame" of the data when that light was triggered. Do you know what the exact code number was? That will give me a better idea of were to start. Looking but at the same time it could be a bunch of different possiblities and would need a scanner hooked up to the truck to tell you what I would do first. I doubt you have a bad O2 sensor. Depending on the code.

Im not sure how the laws in your state are, but here in New Mexico when you sell the car you keep your License plate. So when I sell any of my cars the first thing I do it take the plate off so I dont have this issue and the new owner is required to get new license plate and registration. If I choose I cant put my plate on my new car at that point

Time is money.. My labor rate is 76.85 hr

Redwings all the way. Never put on a more comfrotabel boot than those. The Redwings I have are around $200 tho.

You are going to need at leat 3k amp.. Not cheap!

I love it.. Nice and clean. I bet it sounds great!

I would go with a 3K amp. That will give you 750w per sub. With rise and voltage drop you will be ok. These subs are very underrated at 500rms But like Vito said. Your going to need the electrical first to do this. HO Alternator and extra Battery(s) Wiring ext..

Trubo like the GMC Typhoon... Love those things.

for $700 i would go with the 6.5 comp set. There are a ton of options you could go with. Do some research around here. Talk to people and see what you want to do.

no bro you have a totally different problem. Could be ignition (spark) or fuel issue. If it was the alt you would have a "no crank no start" problem. You have power so your battery seems to be charged and charging!

Check your voltage at the battery. Does it act like a dead battery. No light no crank?

it won't do anything for you putting it into neutral. Other than having to shift from neutral to drive every time. You also have to think when you are in drive your rpms are lower then they are in drive, so putting into neutral will not save you fuel. Just put your foot on the brake.

This it the part I don't understand. You have probably spent over $100 throwing parts at it and still havent fixed the problem. Take it into a shop. Also don't buy any electrical part form Auto Zone (I'm assuming thats where you are getting your parts). They are cheap for a reason, you could possibly have gotten a new part that was bad to start with.

Sounds like its leaning out. Could be a coolant temp sensor. Could be a bunch of other things. My advise to you is to take it to a shop for diagnoses. It will save you money in the long run. Now days you need to hook up a scanner and look at the live data and see what your fuel trims are at (long and short term).

My questions are. Does this only happen on cold start up? After it warms up does it drive fine? Without hooking up a scanner and seeing what its doing it would be tought to figure out. You say it has a O2 code, is that the only code its kicking up?

The breaker could be weak causing it to pop when it shouldn't. Get a "ANL" style fuse.

I had a friend selling a boat on craig list and he would get all these people sending him checks and all. Then he would go to the bank to see if they were real. They were alfake. Don't trust him if he wants to buy a car without seeing it.

Sounds like a scam to me. Where did he find you. if it was of craigs list, its most likely a scam. I wouldn't trust him at all.

you would just need a bill of sale saying he bought it and the title!

What kind of truck and is the check engine light on?

There isn't much room back there. Hope you're not tall, cause your going to lose some leg room. an 8 or a 10 is your best bet.

Trust your tools!

All I can say is to read look at builds with different subs and if you can try and listen to the subs you are looking at. you may just have to take a chance on a pair and hope you like them