Miguels

so why give shit to DC when it does dynamic at almost 10k but when a brutus gets close to rated only in dynamic everyone says its good for the prize? DC is still beast most amps dont even do close to rated in dynamic..

not what im saying at all. im saying he used good CCA for this test. other will see different results depending on brand and quality of wire never did i say OFC is always over sized or true gauge. just stated he used the good wire..

people are forgetting he tested with good quality and oversized CCA wire.. other CCA wire will yield different results. there is different types of CCA and some will be true gauge some undersized and some with less copper making it more expensive to run it.. not all 1/0 CCA wire will be able to handle the 250 amps that is being claimed here.. I've seen 1/0 wire kits that come with a 150a ANL fuse. if its rated at 250a why sell it with a 150a fuse? AN OXYGEN FREE COPPER SPEAKER WIRE is far much less prone to oxidizing in the jacket close to cut ends or where the copper comes into contact with the air. Oxidation will look somewhat similar to a rust like yellow-brown color and will inhibit the wires ability to carry audio signals as it once did when new, which will in turn degrade the audio signal and make your amplifier work harder than need be and also increase voice-coil heat in your speakers which degrades audio output as well COPPER CLAD ALUMINUM is simply just what it sounds like, an aluminum wire or wires coated in an ultra-thin layer of copper around the outside. It is important to note that BARE copper carries more current than the same size aluminum wire can. It is a testable fact folks! Remember, aluminum does NOT conduct current as efficiently as pure bare copper. IT’S A THREE FOLD PROBLEM! 1. Consumers are buying a wire that does not conduct as much current as bare copper. (poor sound quality and equipment failures) 2. Consumers are many times getting into double trouble because a lot of these copper clad aluminum producers tend to fudge more than a little on AWG sizing, so consumers are getting a thinner than normal size wire in addition to poor conductivity, a real double-whammy. 3. Aluminum wire also tends to be much more brittle over time and can result in a short in a homes walls, or vehicles.

im only interested on 2 and 4.. this will tell me if i have to buy new wire or keep my 100 ft of xs cca wire i have

it was a bit for 3 feet. at 6 feet it would be .74 volts... try it with 2 runs CCA and 1 of OFC.. thats what the argument is about.

it lost .5 volts with CCA edit: .37

okay i guess some havent noticed what D'Amore is trying to say, is you are over paying for CCA and getting ripped off while buying it.. just because OFC cost $4.50 a foot you should pay $2.50 for CCA.. CCA should cost even less than what its selling for. with not overpriced ofc you are getting your moneys worth in value. with cca you are overpaying in value. edit: if a Ferrari cost $500,000 it dont mean you should pay $250,000 for a ford focus.... you will want to pays what the Ford Focus is really worth and not pay more because higher end cars cost 50x of the Focus

it doesnt. because you cant put 2 engines in one engine bay. would a 800hp engine that costs less than a 500hp engine be better? engines are a TERRIBLE analogy for this. Better yet. Same car, you have a 400 HP motor for $4k and a 500 HP motor for $6k. I'd go 400 HP for $4k, then buy a blower for about $2-3k (S/C or turbo and cost is dependent on vehicle) and end up with more HP than the 500 HP. Of course, this is theory. Results may ALWAYS vary...as well as price. Anyways, back to learning. Thanks Tony. Granted it won't change the mind sets of most, but at least the info is there! lol an engine that cost more, cost more for a reason. you just cant toss a blower or any power adder to a motor with cast steel internals(if you do you have to be very careful and keep an eye on the boost).. you can build a 400hp motor and a 500hp motor for the same cost .. what will make a engine cost more is the type of internals you use.. to better help this topic lets say the 500hp has forged internals and the 400hp has cast steel.. wont you rather get the more expensive and have a reliable engine. or cheap out and get an engine that will blow up the second you turn it 6500 rpm? what im seeing here is that everyone is missing the point to what he is trying to say

Completely off Topic for the wire, but for engine.. say it made 400 and 500 hp bone stock. The 400 hp motor, dyno tune, headers, cam, exhaust, cold air intake, gears, certain fluids.. could make the 400 hp motor more powerful for less or same price then the 500 hp motor so will the 500hp engine.. what would help more for his post would be the quality of internal.. lets forget about power adders and say the 500hp has forged internals and the 400hp has stock cast steel internals. the forged crank, forged pistons, forged rods and arp bolts on the 500hp can take 900hp at 6900 rpm and the 400hp engine with cast crank and cheap pistons rods and bolts can only handle 600hp at 5500 rpm. now add your power adders plus a 150 shot of nitrous which engine will benefit the most and which will last longer??

can you update the original post with the results? example certified, uncertified and dynamic 1.2k 1,400 1,660 1,979 2.0k 3.5k 5.0k 7.5k 9.0k 10.0k 12.0k 175.4 seen good number so far

looks like a 4th

i was expecting more flex out of (12) 15's and 15,000 rms of power.. will say it sounds good

it only gives you the discount on the Damplifier Pro™ 20 sq. feet - Trunk Pack

lol just click the link and follow his instruction and it will tell you what you can fit

liking that front clip

i believe that would void your warranty... seen people run them at .5 though

i was wondering how to upgrade to gold.. i just paid my fee a few months back

probable has ebay alternators

Cool story bro!!!

what voltage Rusty. i have one and wondering how much i can get out of it

i see a double standard here.. nice looking sub though

so, are you working on JP's hoe after this?

Ken are you running your amps at .25 ohms?