tacomabanga1986

jl's older subs surrounds are pure i got 1 w0 10 and 12 with messed up surrounds, wished they made a refoam kit that might fix em imo try to find something close on partsexpress.com and refoam them and u might be able to get a few more $'s for em good luck with sale tho man

with this in mind, to you stiff means cone doesn't move or really hard to move? if its stiff then u mechanically blew your subs, if u smelt something that would be thermal and what knot, when glue gets hot it smells and so on if subs still move then do as kranny said and check wires inside box, stuff does happin, i dont like push terminals but mine are screw terminals and are just as bad unhook subs from amp, check ohm load on wires, if there is none its prolly unhooked, if its all over the place then it might be blown could have slapped a tinsel lead, or are they woven? only things i can think of

They used. To be a joke thread on here somewhere back in 09

I'm close to hickory, dunno if that helps any, not many smd'ers around here

My downfire box was pritty loud for sealed now with your truck a downfire could work nicely With a sealed box, you would have to play around with placement vs ported, to my a ported downfire box in an extended cab has more SQL, or my experiences shows it Hope this helps

this ^^ a ground from battery neg to engine helps with alt charging i got 2 grounds on my engine, one from engine to chassis, and one from engine to firewall, i didn't know about engine to chassis untill i was looking at my oil filter the other day and seen it, im not grounded to chassis cause i didn't think anything else i had was, so if i move my ground from sheet metal to chassis it should work better a big 3 just helps your alt charge your batteries back up with less resistance and better flow of current, some of my factor wires where 12-10guage, 2 was 4guage (from alt to battery, and from engine to chassis ground), other than that was little, i just replaced those all 0guage does is help your alt not work as hard to try n pump current threw a small wire ive even heard of some people running there rear batteries off there alt's output, now the way i got mine wired its kinda sorta like that due to a dist block but i only have 1 0guage output on my battery terminals, so i used what i had

thats not an older one, more pre 08 to 09, mine is old, has 1/0 inputs and 120amps of fuseing, is a pr1000.1 i just replaced my pr150.2 with my rf punch 450.4, sounds a little better tho, running it in 2channel mode but wired 4channel heres my little 150.2 has 4guage inputs with 40amps of fusing there beast little amps but i wouldn't pay retail for em

lol, mom dont want a kit due to the pocket under the radio so i'll prolly just keep the stock 3disk cdchanger under the radio due to this im just wondering that since its a motorized face if it will clear i found this and i just wonder if it has an amp, i dont want to go threw all of that but if i have to i will http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=151341 her "woodgrain" is shot but it covers most panels so i dunno what to do to get most of em off, like doors have a 1/2'' to 3/4'' tweet with a 5&1/4'' mid and same on rear doors, i dunno if its ran factory active (like most setups) and if i str8 wire the speakers to the headunit to bypass the amp (if it has one) will it blow the tweets or not i might just not put it in there, ied like to, but then again she dont listen to radio much so it would be a waist of time thankx for the feedback

well i decited to put a headunit in moms car, its a 96 avalon, it doesn't have the rear sub so im wondering if it has a factory amp due to the tweets and what knot, and if it does where should i look to unhook it? it has a 3disk cd changer on bottom, and am/fm tape player with a/c controls on left side of headunit i got some 5&1/4 coax im going to replace the factory speakers with and i dont want to deal with the amp issue, i know if it has an amp and i str8 wire from headunit wont that blow tweets? and will a din style headunit fit in the hole or will i have to get a kit headunit im replacing it with is a pioneer premire 680mp cdplayer, i dont use it anymore so i guess i'll let mom use it for a while here is a pic i found of the headunit, and anyone got a idea on how to get it out, do i take the big part of the dash off or just the plastic trim ring? this is what it looks like why i ask is because i dont want to spend 3hrs trying to take it out and what knot, be better if someone from a shop or has same car or has done an install in one could help speed up my process thankx for any feedback

ok, i think im kinda getting the hang of it, ah well, if need be mods can delete this

uugh, they updated youtube and now i dont know what the hell to do now i had mine set to show all videos from subscribers and recomended and so on, now i cant even get that to work can someone help plz? im not sure if this should be in the comp related thread or no

Dropping to 12's with 1000w? Uhhhh ya, i dunno why, i got 2 500wrms 10's wire to 1ohm on a memphis pr1000.1, has 4 30amp fuses with only a 70amp alt, duralast gold 950amp front battery, stinger sp800 rear battery (soon to get a c&d from ram to replace it with) and i get hella voltage drop

i think your being misled, this is for ac voltage, dc voltage is much different 0guage in home wire is different from 0guage in car wire, most is aluminum, or copper coated aluminum like what is on light poles, when it means power transfer it goes by light pole to home, thats why they put 4/0 to power a home with, 200amp main with 302amp peak wire gives u some room to compensate with surges and what knot that is a different formula than what we use, this goes by air convection and heat resistance because with ac current u have alot more resistance at higher voltages so u get alot of heat and what knot, if u take a 220v drop cord and roll it up and plug it up to something, then use it for a while u can feel the heat it puts off hope this makes sence

a ground run might ease the drop hell i drop in the 12's with 1000wrms and 2 batterys with big 3 in 0guage do u have 1 run of 0guage going from front to back? maby a second run of + and a run of neg might help it a bit most 0guage is rated @ 300amps but if alt aint supplying and your pulling more current then theres not much u can do, what is your batteries resting voltage after beating on the system?

ive been told that a agm is like a deep cycle battery and would be fighting the front battery to stay charged and what knot but i have a wet cell battery up front and a agm in back and have no problems at all a wet cell battery u have to keep the water levels just right or they wont charge, vs a agm witch is advanced gell membrane doesn't have that problem so its more suitable for any application really i think this is why they make those battery isolators, so with engine off u run off back battery so u will have the front battery to get u home if rear one goes dead theres so many mixed views about this, but thats what ive heard

np, same here

great seller superman fast shipping great packaging great customer service, answered all my pm's with all the answers i needed product was as listed or better i got 2 cdplayers off him and im more than satisfied with them, all in all, great seller and will buy from him again

lol, dont lie to these people, the sound was comeing from those headphones, not the speakers ive always wanted to see one of these in action, if there not to much, try one of those t-amps from parts express anyways good reviews

is it gunna be possable to make a portable amp dyno or the big box thing gunna be it? and if its possable, can he put a dedicated power supply to power amps up to a certian size, i know it will be expensive but make it an option? anyways, got any black friday specials for the dd-1's? damn i could use one i wonder where we would be at if stuff like this was available back in the 90's early 00's oh, and did tony ever finialize the light thing that moved with the music kinda like on the new rf amps? that looked cool

cool, ya u dont have to if u dont want to, i know the stuff aint cheap, i found some in my gpa's shop when he passed away so i put it to good use when yall people do this do u put it under the plastic film over the door? i know people say to keep that on, i just pilled mine back and stuck it all over the place and worked good i even layered up the speaker panel things i made for my doors due to stock mid was 6&3/4 and mine are 6&1/2, worked good, now how do i take out the back upolstry in my truck so i can put a layer on it cause my back glass rattles way to much does this stuff work on door panels also, like the backside? my midbass is muffled due to me putting to much stuff in my door pockets this is just my front speakers and rear speakers, the one sound is stuff rattleing in my doors, http://s201.photobucket.com/albums/aa305/tacomabanga2007/?action=view&current=DSCN2515-1.mp4 would something like what i got layerd on the door panel keep it from rattling as bad?

i like testing stuff could u throw this in the mix? its what i use, i cant see using peal n seal made from tar and what knot http://www.findtape.com/shop/product.aspx?id=565&idx=4&tid=2&info=aluminum+foil&setscreen=1&width=1440&height=785 i dunno if its good or not but it works for me, 2 mil dead-soft aluminum foil backing with a 43 mil butyl rubber mastic adhesive, its pritty thick, i think 1/8'' thick and is pretty sticky but not to much i like it cause its main perpose is to insulate so in winter heat stays in and in summer cold stays in i got another roll to play with but dunno where im gunna use it i dont have to argue with your tests, facts are facts, was just wondering how the stuff i use comes into play i have just wondered how this stuff acually effected sound waves to slow down the reverberations in metal so music sounds better and what knot, i member my friend useing stinger road kill in a bucket and with 2 layers of dynamat and 1 layer or road kill it did for 4 15's in a lexus lol anyways good testing

pm sent

i got dibs on the pioneers, will send payment sometime tommrow

lol, ya, sometimes i get side tracked

y dont people do 220v @ 50htz? to hard to wire a sub? well i dont think u can do 220 to a sub due to 2 main wires then ued have to come off of a common to get the current to flow, so i guess 110-120v is all we got i got an idea, wire in a dimmer switch in a drop cord and see if it has any effect to the sub, would be a neat idea i think ive never wall socketed a sub befor, if i want to blow it i just hook it to my amp, sometimes it handles the amp better than i would have hoped and ive always wonderd, does ohms law work with ac current, like a .5ohm load vs a 4ohm load, do u get more power?