john253a

Just make a section removable in the box If you want do it in perspecs to show them off

i would have built something like this

I looked at doing a 5.5 or 6 high but for a basic box builder building a L-port isnt for everyone

a 4th order may work for you here's one i have in archives 1.1cuft sealed net (0.2 sub) 2.3 cuft ported 5.5x 5.5x 36.5"long (5" external) at 30hz if port is shortened flush with top of box = 33hz

with the port 5.5 from end it will act as an L-port but the thickness of the port wall + what ever brace you use on port end give or take 3" putting tuning around 34hz

do you have the sub already as for the money there is a lot better out there, unless you have the old one's you know before they were popular

dont like to give away to many tricks the carpet will hit the notch until you need it

ive never had a problem, what i do is on the bottom edge i use the router and put a little notch in it (after carpet you can see it, then when you have to take it out you use a flat head screwdriver in the little notch and wallah

if you can go out 0.75 it will be better as you will double wall at front and be able to flush mount sub

i have most in templates, just mod the sizes and 5 min later it's done

or 4x6" x20"long 33.1hz 9.68 net 11.68sq in per ft

2x 8"x 16long 1" mdf no bracing 43x20x29 0.15cuft each 0.45 total 11.53 gross 10.12 net 33.2hz 9.93sq in per ft idd look at 18x7.5" x 27long 3 common wall 8.23 net 33.1hz 16.4sq in per ft

140sq in port 113.5" long 30hz 1/4wave or shorted in up by 6" and have 140sq in 84.5" long 40hz 1/4 wave just throwing it out there may not be for everybody

get some other peoples feed back not just my own, by no means am i an expert, compared to many on the form, as i have never owned such a car/truck and don't not what may or maynot work in you situation