cubs_fan0718 Posted March 23, 2011 Report Share Posted March 23, 2011 New to the site.. can someone give me some cliffs on this build.. it looks really clean and does good numbers but i know alot of dailys doing bigger numbers on just as clean a system. is there something im missing.. not bashing the truck like i said its a sick ride but some poeple act as if its the best ever seen. I have not seen the install so im sure there are some aspects to it that i have no clue about Truck is not meant to put up huge numbers, its meant to be loud and sound clean. As for cliffs just scroll through this theres a little info but if you want the full list go to the members build section and look for the build it should be towards the top. Edit: its not stickied look for 6 18's hummer in the title there is over 180 pages from start to where it is now. 06 Impala SSKenwood Excelon DDX593 Ampere Audio 150.4 Ampere Audio 5K1 XS D4700 (front)Mechman 320a Alt. w/ Big 3 Lots of Second Skin Damplifier Under Construction for 2017 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted March 23, 2011 Report Share Posted March 23, 2011 New to the site.. can someone give me some cliffs on this build.. it looks really clean and does good numbers but i know alot of dailys doing bigger numbers on just as clean a system. is there something im missing.. not bashing the truck like i said its a sick ride but some poeple act as if its the best ever seen. I have not seen the install so im sure there are some aspects to it that i have no clue about 160DB club? I want to see yours THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pitbullx Posted March 23, 2011 Report Share Posted March 23, 2011 *ahem* 155 non walled with smd's, 157 walled with smd's, .. 5 db gain from switching to T3 subs? *walks away* *ahem* there wasnt a 5 db gain *walks away* but Trippi did say it SOUNDED louder and hit harder. which sounds good to me for a drop in maybe the T3's did better with the low power levels since by eds own word the subs are seeing less than 2kw each and its a known fact that the SMD's need a minimum of 3500w or its a waste of time.... Id like to see a comparison between the two woofers with power and current issues taken care of. Team Devastation Mixed Martial ArtsMachado Brazilian JiujitsuOnce I lock it on there's no escape I don't train to make you tap, I train to tear your arm, leg, or head off. Its your job to tap before I can do that -Pain is only weakness leaving the body, its kill or be killed and only the strong survive...Rockford FosgateDigital DesignsFi Car AudioCrossfire Car Audio Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nCOMP1337 Posted March 23, 2011 Report Share Posted March 23, 2011 *ahem* 155 non walled with smd's, 157 walled with smd's, .. 5 db gain from switching to T3 subs? *walks away* *ahem* there wasnt a 5 db gain *walks away* but Trippi did say it SOUNDED louder and hit harder. which sounds good to me for a drop in maybe the T3's did better with the low power levels since by eds own word the subs are seeing less than 2kw each and its a known fact that the SMD's need a minimum of 3500w or its a waste of time.... Id like to see a comparison between the two woofers with power and current issues taken care of. maybe we can get db-don to do that with a tsns since hes already done loads of testing for an smd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snafu Posted March 24, 2011 Report Share Posted March 24, 2011 I think addressing the power delivery to the amplifiers will be a larger factor than most think. The RF amps use unregulated power supplies - less voltage IN = less current IN. Since Power is the product of voltage and current this will be a big factor, considering 11.5 VDC is 20% less than 14.4 VDC. If I were doing this upgrade, I would document the following before I changed anything: 1. The nominal voltage available with the vehicle at idle with the audio system muted 2. The minimum voltage at the B+ and B- terminals of one of the sub amps over a 10 second blast of said Bass Mekanik track 3. The average voltage at the B+ and B- terminals of the same sub amp over the same 10 second blast of the same track 4. The maximum voltage drop between the B+ terminal of the same sub amp and the output stud of any alternator during this same time frame 5. The average voltage drop between the B+ terminal of the same sub amp across the same run during this same time frame After you've measured #1, two good DMMs (one used for measurements 2&3, the other for 4&5) like Fluke 87s or 88s can capture all of this data in a single 10 second period. It's important to document this because you want a starting point. From there, you could easily factor this data as a percentage in a number of ways. Ideally, modifications will be made so that the amplifiers will see 14.4 VDC (when measured across the B+ and B- terminals) even at maximum output. Factoring only the subwoofer amplifiers here, and assuming each can make 3,000 watts RMS into 1 ohm (common), the math would be as follows: 3,000 x 12 = 36,000 Watts RMS 36,000 Watts RMS / 64.5% amplifier efficiency* = 55,814 Watts Input (on sine waves) 55,814 x 50% Duty Cycle (music factor) = 27,907 Watts Input (music at clipping) 27,907 / 14.4 VDC = 1,938 amps of current That's (6) 350 Amp alternators just to feed the bass amps. If I assume the length of cable from the alternators to the amplifiers is 20 feet and assume another 3 feet from the alternators to the frame and 7 feet from the amplifiers to the frame, this gives a net length of cable of 30 feet (not including the frame rail return path, which would have very low resistance). If I pull out my copy of Automotive Wiring and Electrical Systems (Hey, I refer to it too . . . LOL), and look at the chart on page 100, I can see that 1/0 AWG (as in cable that meets the American Wire Gauge specification) is good for about 140 amps (give or take a few) at 30 feet. This will require 14 runs of 1/0 AWG cable on both the power and ground side of things just so that the sub amplifiers can play music at clipping - this does not factor all those 1,000 watt 4-channel amplifiers nor additional batteries in the rear of the vehicle that require between 7 & 10 amps each to maintain a surface charge . . . That's a bunch of ring terminals to solidly affix to the ends of cables to minimize resistance . . . Yeah, I'm guessing there might be some "gain" in addressing this. After this was addressed, I would repeat steps 1-5 from above and factor all as a percentage. If Step 5 / Step 1 > 5%, then you still have work to do, although below 10% the law of diminishing returns will certainly be a factor . . . consider where that is currently . . . *found at RF's web site on the 2500-1bdcp @ 1 ohm - the 2500-1 may be slightly different. Tony Candela - SMD Sales & Marketing Email me at [email protected] to learn about becoming an SMD Partner! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rainman215 Posted March 24, 2011 Report Share Posted March 24, 2011 Mind = blown My 02 Accord Wall Build 2 Sundown Audio Nightshade V1 18s --- 1 SAZ 3500 Sundown Audio 100.4 --- 4 Sundown Audio Neo-Pro 8s Sundown Audio 125.2 --- 2 Morel MD-12 Tweeters , 2 Selenium ST-200 Tweeters DC Power 270xp --- 4 XS Power D1200s | 1 D5100R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EclipseChris Posted March 24, 2011 Report Share Posted March 24, 2011 Doesn't the hummer have 20 14v batts in the back? So voltage should be 16v ish? And its getting all the way down to 11? Just looked at the UBL, and yes there are twenty D1400 batts in the back. And i'm not bashing Rick because i have met him and personally think he is a great guy, but when he got the truck he striped it and ran a ton of what look like speaker wires. It seems like he over looked/under thought the power wires... My opinion (if anyone cares) is that this IS going to get taken care of. Pointing fingers is useless and stupid. Live and learn. i resolve to be a nicer moderator. Tercel build R.I.P. Eclipse build Old New V-Dub My feedback. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outsideshot23 Posted March 24, 2011 Report Share Posted March 24, 2011 New to the site.. can someone give me some cliffs on this build.. it looks really clean and does good numbers but i know alot of dailys doing bigger numbers on just as clean a system. is there something im missing.. not bashing the truck like i said its a sick ride but some poeple act as if its the best ever seen. I have not seen the install so im sure there are some aspects to it that i have no clue about 160DB club? I want to see yours Ive rebuilt that ride since then.. it was my s-10.. my new build is made to look cean and get loud.. should be close to a 60 when i get done with it tuned @ 38.. its in build logs under sierra 26s 20000watt daily Vote for May SOTM!!!! uild log---------> http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/104017-sierra-on-26s-20000-watts-daily-pics/ Kenwood Excelon HU 4 18" Atomic APX 4 RD D9s 4 DC Power 270xp alts 9 xs d1400 batts Team XSPower Team SecondSkin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mtnbikecrazy55 Posted March 24, 2011 Report Share Posted March 24, 2011 Wow. Holy in-depth reply. Quite interesting and informational! I hate long signatures.... ...what the fuck is wrong wiht you you fucking fuckity fuck fuck head... Mtnbikecrazy55 Feedback Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trippi Posted March 24, 2011 Report Share Posted March 24, 2011 love the build thanks Still loving the truck Trippi, no matter what subs you go with and what brand name tries to capitalize off it's exposure. muchas gracias Baby's good getting big. 12 weeks tomorrow. figure in another month i can get her using a sander. once the power delivery is taken care of id expect a full db or two gain. plus more cone movement more air movement. cool man..so what's your guess..1, 2 or somewhere in between? Wow. and hey trippi I'm glad u finally came out..i know it sure was lonely in that closet. I think addressing the power delivery to the amplifiers will be a larger factor than most think. The RF amps use unregulated power supplies - less voltage IN = less current IN. Since Power is the product of voltage and current this will be a big factor, considering 11.5 VDC is 20% less than 14.4 VDC. If I were doing this upgrade, I would document the following before I changed anything: 1. The nominal voltage available with the vehicle at idle with the audio system muted 2. The minimum voltage at the B+ and B- terminals of one of the sub amps over a 10 second blast of said Bass Mekanik track 3. The average voltage at the B+ and B- terminals of the same sub amp over the same 10 second blast of the same track 4. The maximum voltage drop between the B+ terminal of the same sub amp and the output stud of any alternator during this same time frame 5. The average voltage drop between the B+ terminal of the same sub amp across the same run during this same time frame After you've measured #1, two good DMMs (one used for measurements 2&3, the other for 4&5) like Fluke 87s or 88s can capture all of this data in a single 10 second period. It's important to document this because you want a starting point. From there, you could easily factor this data as a percentage in a number of ways. Ideally, modifications will be made so that the amplifiers will see 14.4 VDC (when measured across the B+ and B- terminals) even at maximum output. Factoring only the subwoofer amplifiers here, and assuming each can make 3,000 watts RMS into 1 ohm (common), the math would be as follows: 3,000 x 12 = 36,000 Watts RMS 36,000 Watts RMS / 64.5% amplifier efficiency* = 55,814 Watts Input (on sine waves) 55,814 x 50% Duty Cycle (music factor) = 27,907 Watts Input (music at clipping) 27,907 / 14.4 VDC = 1,938 amps of current That's (6) 350 Amp alternators just to feed the bass amps. If I assume the length of cable from the alternators to the amplifiers is 20 feet and assume another 3 feet from the alternators to the frame and 7 feet from the amplifiers to the frame, this gives a net length of cable of 30 feet (not including the frame rail return path, which would have very low resistance). If I pull out my copy of Automotive Wiring and Electrical Systems (Hey, I refer to it too . . . LOL), and look at the chart on page 100, I can see that 1/0 AWG (as in cable that meets the American Wire Gauge specification) is good for about 140 amps (give or take a few) at 30 feet. This will require 14 runs of 1/0 AWG cable on both the power and ground side of things just so that the sub amplifiers can play music at clipping - this does not factor all those 1,000 watt 4-channel amplifiers nor additional batteries in the rear of the vehicle that require between 7 & 10 amps each to maintain a surface charge . . . That's a bunch of ring terminals to solidly affix to the ends of cables to minimize resistance . . . Yeah, I'm guessing there might be some "gain" in addressing this. After this was addressed, I would repeat steps 1-5 from above and factor all as a percentage. If Step 5 / Step 1 > 5%, then you still have work to do, although below 10% the law of diminishing returns will certainly be a factor . . . consider where that is currently . . . *found at RF's web site on the 2500-1bdcp @ 1 ohm - the 2500-1 may be slightly different. Thanks man, that means a lot that you even took time to try to help me out. Now I just need to find a translator. lol ~~~~CHODE FTW~~~~ DC4LYFE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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