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This debate between P&S/asphalt based deadeners will never end as long as there are people who are willing to use them. NOBODY can change that.

It's cheap and if people feel like they are getting an amazing bang for their buck, who am I to say boo about it? It's their money, their time, their vehicle.

Hell who here is old enough to remember using towels and cheap t-shirts rolled up and shoved in every nook and cranny? Yes it worked, yes it was cheap, but it wasn't effective. And it had a ton of down sides like retaining water, molding, and rust issues.

I am here offering my opinions as well as well documented facts about these products and if anybody is having a problem telling the difference between fact and opinion, well thats not my fault.

Research, research, research! If there is just one thing that any of us can take from this thread is do your own research and make your own decision. :good:

Later,

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Actually the second skin rep did post a bunch of information. you guys must have skipped that. A real deadener does more than just mass load.

I didn't say nobody didn't.

I just said need more info than just Don't use it. Which a few in this thread said. And that's all.

If I told you Don't do smoke crack. But didn't give you any reason behind it. Or very little, what would keep you from smoking it, if you didn't know any better?

Same thing applies. Not just in this thread but all.

I see so much of thoerys and answers but with no reason, its almost like they don't count.

Facts go a lot further than opinions. But it seems mostly on this site, people want opinions instead of fact.

Sure, opinions are needed, but never should replace facts. That is all.

Ok, so lets put it this way.

Yes you can get bass from using Pyle amplifiers. Are you going to get the same performance for it as something of a better quality? No. Would you recommend it to your friends? Hell no.

Some of us have had real world bad experiences from using it. Myself included. Would I recommend it to my friends? Hell fuckin no!

But if you insist that it's ok, then have at it.

Designing, building, and shipping boxes. Yahoo IM - kingsuv00If the listening level is too loud, please inform the driver, so he can promptly pull over, and let you out.

not many cars can get me to pluggin my ears but this one.......damn. I mean the first minute is ok but that thing just really starts digging deeper and deeper in your earhole till you cant stand it no more. Seems like it does it with relative ease....16 12's on 8 amps.........gotta love it. :)

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I have never used any sort of REAL deadener yet. Only Peel n' Seal. I have a little under one whole roll of Peel n' Seal on the top of my trunk. I've had it there for a little over a year now, It hasn't started to peel or melt. Doesn't stink at all, only smells a bit when you first remove the backing that covers the adhesive. It has been there through socal's 100+ degree weather and the just recent cooler weathers, didn't even use a heatgun during installation. Just cleaned the surface with alcohol.

When I first installed it, I heard a noticeable difference but nothing major. The stuff leaves a nasty looking brown residue on whatever surface it adheres to (my car is white) that is a BITCH to get off. It's pretty thin and I honestly wouldn't buy it again.

If you ask me, it's a quick and easy fix that should be replaced once proper deadener is purchased, if your willing to scrape brown shit looking glue off of your trunk. Otherwise, I say just save up for good stuff.

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Actually the second skin rep did post a bunch of information. you guys must have skipped that. A real deadener does more than just mass load.

I didn't say nobody didn't.

I just said need more info than just Don't use it. Which a few in this thread said. And that's all.

If I told you Don't do smoke crack. But didn't give you any reason behind it. Or very little, what would keep you from smoking it, if you didn't know any better?

Same thing applies. Not just in this thread but all.

I see so much of thoerys and answers but with no reason, its almost like they don't count.

Facts go a lot further than opinions. But it seems mostly on this site, people want opinions instead of fact.

Sure, opinions are needed, but never should replace facts. That is all.

Ok, so lets put it this way.

Yes you can get bass from using Pyle amplifiers. Are you going to get the same performance for it as something of a better quality? No. Would you recommend it to your friends? Hell no.

Some of us have had real world bad experiences from using it. Myself included. Would I recommend it to my friends? Hell fuckin no!

But if you insist that it's ok, then have at it.

Oh, maybe my post sounded as if I was pushing P&S, and I wasn't.

I'm pushing true and facts over opinions and bullshit.

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This debate between P&S/asphalt based deadeners will never end as long as there are people who are willing to use them. NOBODY can change that.

It's cheap and if people feel like they are getting an amazing bang for their buck, who am I to say boo about it? It's their money, their time, their vehicle.

Hell who here is old enough to remember using towels and cheap t-shirts rolled up and shoved in every nook and cranny? Yes it worked, yes it was cheap, but it wasn't effective. And it had a ton of down sides like retaining water, molding, and rust issues.

I am here offering my opinions as well as well documented facts about these products and if anybody is having a problem telling the difference between fact and opinion, well thats not my fault.

Research, research, research! If there is just one thing that any of us can take from this thread is do your own research and make your own decision. :good:

Later,

sooner or later we will be able to like posts, lol.

Tell me...does this smell like chloroform to you?

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I have never used any sort of REAL deadener yet. Only Peel n' Seal. I have a little under one whole roll of Peel n' Seal on the top of my trunk. I've had it there for a little over a year now, It hasn't started to peel or melt. Doesn't stink at all, only smells a bit when you first remove the backing that covers the adhesive. It has been there through socal's 100+ degree weather and the just recent cooler weathers, didn't even use a heatgun during installation. Just cleaned the surface with alcohol.

When I first installed it, I heard a noticeable difference but nothing major. The stuff leaves a nasty looking brown residue on whatever surface it adheres to (my car is white) that is a BITCH to get off. It's pretty thin and I honestly wouldn't buy it again.

If you ask me, it's a quick and easy fix that should be replaced once proper deadener is purchased, if your willing to scrape brown shit looking glue off of your trunk. Otherwise, I say just save up for good stuff.

klutter kutter(sold at walmart) will cut clean through the residue as if it was just dust

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The Revolution Was Not Televised

But There Is This Thread(clicky)

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If you ask me, it's a quick and easy fix that should be replaced once proper deadener is purchased, if your willing to scrape brown shit looking glue off of your trunk. Otherwise, I say just save up for good stuff.

klutter kutter(sold at walmart) will cut clean through the residue as if it was just dust

Need to buy some of that to try. Took the fatmat off my trunk a few weeks ago since I do not need deadener there anymore due to sealing my sub forward. Right now just planning on getting a new trunk lid from a junk yard but I'll try some of that.

I removed my trunk and sat it upside down on a big blanket and spent 5 hours on my hands and knees with a heat gun, razor blade, and scraper getting 3 layers of fatmat off my trunk that has been installed for 3-4 years give or take and was peeling and causing a small water leak that fried my amp about a month ago. But here is that residue you speak of :(

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LOL did you deaden over the trunks pull handle!? LOL......

and guys, im just saying polyfill is alot cheaper than decent deadener..... i want you to think about that for a minute, and think about what acoustic fill does.

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im taking out my passenger seat, battery is disconnected, going to unwire and take out the three amps, take out the 70+ lb box, then the platform so i can crimp 1 wire.

Almost as bad as those fegs that put those horns in their grills and roll down the street distorting the block....

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If you ask me, it's a quick and easy fix that should be replaced once proper deadener is purchased, if your willing to scrape brown shit looking glue off of your trunk. Otherwise, I say just save up for good stuff.

klutter kutter(sold at walmart) will cut clean through the residue as if it was just dust

Need to buy some of that to try. Took the fatmat off my trunk a few weeks ago since I do not need deadener there anymore due to sealing my sub forward. Right now just planning on getting a new trunk lid from a junk yard but I'll try some of that.

I removed my trunk and sat it upside down on a big blanket and spent 5 hours on my hands and knees with a heat gun, razor blade, and scraper getting 3 layers of fatmat off my trunk that has been installed for 3-4 years give or take and was peeling and causing a small water leak that fried my amp about a month ago. But here is that residue you speak of :(

i kid you not once the stuff hits the residue you can just rub it off with your finger. shit does some work son

Fusion With A Stetsom 4k2d on 2 DC XL 15s tuned to 31hz and Subs and ports forward

The Revolution Was Not Televised

But There Is This Thread(clicky)

Dr Merkenstein is my 360 gamertag and my profession. When shit gets real, call in the Doc

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My point was that lowering the resonant frequency of the panel is the intended purpose of sound dampening materials, but you made it sound like it was some sort of trick or illusion the asphalt products is able to do that makes us think it's behaving like one.

You have to understand he made it sound that way because it is indeed working differently. With a butyl based product it is trying to make it return to the original position more slowly and converts some of the energy into heat as opposed to vibration. Asphalt products work solely on the laws of inertia which is adding mass makes it harder to start moving, however it is also harder to stop it once it starts. Obviously, the butyl benefits from the laws of inertia too so think of butyl as dual acting.

The issue is though that if the product you are using only works because of inertia then why not just glue a piece of wood or weld some metal to the afflicted areas since it is essentially the same process in fact that would be more effective than the asphalt since it would also remove flex since it is a rigid material.

If you truly would like to learn about this, go ahead and look at this pdf that Don at Sound Deadener Showdown wrote up prior to coming out with his own product. Ideally we could get all of these deadener companies to start getting rated and posting their results from a constant and objective test like ASTM E756-05 that would allow you to know what you are actually buying.

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