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Bolts for terminals?


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Been seein alot of installs that use bolts for box terminal.

I thought the best method for a ported enclosure was just drilling holes and running the wire from the amp directly to the terminals on the sub.

Is the bolt method ok? Seems like it would actually increase resistance in the line.

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it helps if u need to take out the box, if u just run it str8 to amp u would have to cut ur speaker wires everytime u took the box out as with bolts and ring terminals u can pritty much do anything u want to to send power to ur subs

and most people that do it like to compete so they can change there ohm loads easier than takeing subs out of the box each time

and no longer than they use of allthread i dont think it has much resistance

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the most efficient way is direct leads from the subwoofer but not many companies offer this using bolts is just fine im sure copper or aluminum is better but id be willing to bet there isnt a noticeable difference

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A bolt is a thick piece of solid metal- it may be an alloy, but if that bugs you a lot, hit up eBay for some copper bolts :drinks:

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What I mean was directly from the amp terminal to the speaker terminal. That would not involve cutting any wires when the sub is removed.

I can see the advantage of using bolts over pre made speaker terminals made for boxes. I also see how it would help with the ohm load arrangement.

Thanks for the info

Pioneer AVH-P4300DVD | Hertz 6.5 | Alpine Type R 6x9 | Custom 200A Alt | Knu Flek 1/0 Big 3 and all wiring | Eclipse EA3422 | AudioQue 2200d | DC XL 12 | Red Oak Box ~2.8 cubes @ 30 hz |

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What I mean was directly from the amp terminal to the speaker terminal. That would not involve cutting any wires when the sub is removed.

I can see the advantage of using bolts over pre made speaker terminals made for boxes. I also see how it would help with the ohm load arrangement.

Thanks for the info

that is exactly why I do it. so you dont have to take the subs out if you want to change nominal load.

and you are correct, you wouldnt have to cut wires if you did direct leads. if you take the box out, you would take the subs out 1st rite? lol. and if you want to change ohm load you just leave enough slack to be able to get the subs out of the box and disconnect them.

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I just did it on my last install. I measured the speaker wire resistance without cutting it and then after using the allthread bolt. Vmeter didn't show any real difference plus, I can change ohm loads easier without having to mess with amp. A hole through box with silicone works too, both ways just have different advantages

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I just did it on my last install. I measured the speaker wire resistance without cutting it and then after using the allthread bolt. Vmeter didn't show any real difference plus, I can change ohm loads easier without having to mess with amp. A hole through box with silicone works too, both ways just have different advantages

I generally just makes runs to each coil, then label them outside the box. I just measured also, and I found no change in resistance. I used stainless bolts, but I doubt that makes a difference.

You do leave the lines exposed with bolts, but that shouldnt be a big deal.

Pioneer AVH-P4300DVD | Hertz 6.5 | Alpine Type R 6x9 | Custom 200A Alt | Knu Flek 1/0 Big 3 and all wiring | Eclipse EA3422 | AudioQue 2200d | DC XL 12 | Red Oak Box ~2.8 cubes @ 30 hz |

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